Dick and Betsy Jones joined us on this adventure. This was their first trip loaded, camping as bicyclists, and the first opportunity to transport bikes by air to a foreign country in our trusty Pedal Paks. The Pedal Paks are a heavy duty plastic case with foam lining that totally protects the bike in transit. It is large: almost 6'L X 3'H X 1'D and rolls on heavy casters that make it fairly simple to move. In 1998, international flights did not charge for the oversized luggage and our bikes traveled with us for free. We stored the cases at a small hotel that we booked for the first and last nights stay. They kept them upended in an empty elevator area as there was not another room at the Inn. We built the bikes in their recreation room by the pool table. The hotel staff didn't know quite what to make of the commotion, but supported our adventure just the same.
Campgrounds in Portugal, like most European campgrounds, are not equipped with tables, seating, or fire rings at the individual camp sites. Most camp grounds in Portugal had the more basic amentiies including separate clothes and dish washing facilities, plus the novelty of their security measures: fences and a camp card for admittance. Many of the campgrounds host permanent holiday tents which are visited regularly by their owners.
Portugal embraced regional differences in their arts and crafts. Purchasing lace, pottery, and rugs was pure joy for us. Meeting the artisans and watching them create in their cottage industry environment was full of delightful surprises. The people were proper and seemed a little reserved. However, they warmed right up when we attempted to speak in our minimal Portuguese.
We ended a long days' ride in Alenquer and there was not a place to stay except over the foothills and 20 more miles away. We were hot, tired and desperate. We have a long and funny story about how we ended up staying in the middle of town, camped in a church yard, and hosted by the Boy Scouts. And a major plus was the special bottle of Port that was given to us on our departure. We savored that Port for many evenings!
Our journey took us through the areas around Lisbon: south to Sesimbra, inland to Evora, north to Peniche and back along the coast through Sintra. The beaches were spectacular, the inland cork farms and olive groves were carpeted with wildflowers of purple and yellow. The towns were medieval with cobblestone streets and each on top of a hill under the watchful eye of a fortress or castle. There is a proud heritage of fishermen, who today must stay at sea days and even months to continue to support their families in the way of their fathers and grandfathers.
Food was reasonable, hearty, and definitely fresh. Produce was grown in every other yard and sold at local markets. The seafood was hauled out of the water the day you ate it. There were a number of delicious, soft goat cheeses meant to be eaten the day they're produced. Of course, there were the heavenly olives and inexpensive, fabulous wines!
The experiences here were some of the best we've had and we definitely plan to return.
