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| They say that every picture tells a story;this is a picture that doesn't go halfway .Less than ten minutes previously I had attempted to remove a huge fang of rock about twenty feet below.When the loose rock parted like a rotten tooth from a socket it twisted 90 degrees away from its intended destination-the gully between myself and the outcrop from where the photo was taken-and crashed down the arete like an exocet missile.My then 14 year old son,Liam, was belaying me at the foot of the arete when the freefalling rock glanced off and practically parted his hair ! It was so close he felt the wind-rush as it exploded past him. I still have nightmares of what might have been.As for the route,well its a fine little direct version of an indirect climb at E 1 (US 5-10a) done a few months earlier. |
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| Climbing with respected veteran,Harold Drasdo had been a pleasure and an education.As the Anarchist's apprentice I was beginning to learn the art of line potential.That is,using my eyes and trusting my instincts to pick out potential new routes.Where most people would look at the multi tiered, vegetated cliffs of Arenig Fawr with a jaundiced eye,Harold could see classic routes beneath the green mantle.Of the 40+ new routes I have done on Arenig, about half a dozen stand out as at least two star climbs. Jac codi Baw-(english) John Lifting earth-JCB-was Harold's tribute to my renowned gardening skills ! The route began as a pull around the lower arete on to a dirty slab which was not well protected.Fortunately,the arete itself provided a straightforward romp in the sun to a huge perched block balanced on the top of the arete. |
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| Scott Lloyd had brought me to the western side of Arenig Fawr-Pen Tyrau- to look for caves mentioned in Welsh folklore.Scott was busy writing the soon to be highly acclaimed Arthurian tome, The keys to Avalon,and was checking out sites mentioned in old Welsh manuscripts. We spent a wet day marvelling at the unexplored gritstone like edges which dotted the western mountain slopes.On more clement days I returned with Harold,Liam and Phil Livesey to establish what we could before passing on the gen to Terry Taylor,who was writing the Arenig section for a forthcoming CC guide book and the legendary,Martin Crocker. Viridian Groove is a real little trad classic.Thuggy and delicate in equal measure.The photo shows me trying to get around a downward pointing spike of rock which pushes you right out of the groove onto the smooth wall.You won't be suprised to learn it was the crux ! |
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| Showell Styles has been climbing mountains for most of his 90+ years.Fortunately,by his own admission he is more rabbit than rock tiger and we were able to garner another ten or so lines that Showell had missed, including Steelworker a rather questionable first ascent as an old peg was found at the base of this fine slab.Like all routes on Yr Arddu,Steelworker is a fine,straightforward easy climb in an outstanding situation. Yr Arddu sits amongst its bigger neighbours like a little armadillo,bristling with rough outcrops.Unfortunately, most of these outcrops lack scale and are often easy angled.Big Buttress at almost 150ft is Yr Arddu biggest crag and has around eight multi pitch routes all in the VD-HS range.An excellent place for novices to learn their craft. |
| IMAGES:NEW ROUTES |
| Harold Drasdo on Jac codi baw HVS 5a: (US 5.9) The Amphitheatre,Simddu Ddu,Arenig Fawr,North Wales......(first ascent) |
| John Appleby on Viridian Groove HVS 5b: (US 5.10) : Arrowhead Buttress,Pen Tyrau,Arenig Fawr, North Wales......(first ascent) |
| John Appleby on Stonecrop VS 4b, (US 5,7) Craig y Mwyner,Nantmor,North Wales..(first ascent) |
| Liam Appleby on Steelworker HS 4b (US 5.6) Big Buttress,Yr Arddu,Nantmor,N Wales. (first ascent) |
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| Phil Livesey & John Appleby on Brigate Rosso VS 4c.(US 5.7) Craig Ddu,Moel Siabod,N Wales. |
| Craig Ddu on the south western slopes of Moel Siabod was a real find.A hard man's crag if ever there was one.It seems only a matter of time before the crag yeilds its secrets to the wider climbing world *.However,Harold,Phil and I did manage a clutch of more ameinable new routes before the flood including Brigate Rosso, an excellent,steep little climb which follows a direct line up a knife edge arete.The hardest part of the climb was leaving the starting groove to gain the arete itself.Once established the rest of the route was an airy romp ! * Since writing this Terry Taylor and friends have put up over 20 hard routes on the crag |
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| Through Harold's old mate Nick Gough,I had obtained Showell Styles' charming guide to Nantmor. |