| On the rock |
| more postcards from the workface |
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| Return to Yr Arddu |
| In the mid 1990's,I came across Showell Styles' privately published,pamphlet guide to Yr Arddu in south Snowdonia. I quickly came under the spell of this beautiful,craggy little mountain which is studded with little outcrops and small cliffs.With the help of Harold Drasdo,Scott Lloyd and my son Liam Appleby I established around ten routes mainly on Big Buttress, which although claimed as first ascents some of which undoubtably have been climbed before. |
| Luke Appleby on Battel severe (US 5.4) Lliwedd Bach:Yr Arddu:N Wales |
| Now my youngest son Luke has started climbing.I went back to Yr Arddu for the first time in six years and together we did some fine little routes including a new severe on Big Buttress.I'm definitely going back to Yr Arddu soon.The whole mountain has such a positive vibe ! |
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| Yr Arddu;NWales.The main climbing cliffs on the S/W face of the mountain.Mur Bach is the highest cliff on the left in shadow.Big Buttress is the rounded crag just below right.Further right,in shadow is Lliwedd Bach. |
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| Luke Appleby on the first ascent of Milk white steed,Severe:(US 5.4) Secret Crag:N Wales |
| One of the best things about being an active climber living in N Wales is the vast new route potential which still remains. In late August,Luke and I went up to an undeveloped area of crags in south Snowdonia where we established a new severe climb . The area undoubtably offers rich pickings for any climber who would further investigate this extensive,rambling area. Given the dubious rock quality in places,and the serious nature of the climbing here,it's probably not the best place for a ten year old novice ! However,I fully intend to return if I can persuade someone to join me ! |
| Mountains and other ghosts ! |
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| John Appleby on Milk White Steed:Severe,(US 5.4):Secret Crag.N Wales |
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| Shadow Ridge:Cwm Tregalen.N Wales |
| In late August Scott Lloyd and I made the long trek from Nant Gwynant to Cwm Tregalen to climb an obscure mountaineering route,Shadow Ridge,on Clogwyn Du.The walk in took us over two hours in the hot sun carrying climbing equipment, This Paul Work route first ascended in 1947 receives few ascents,if any,in a climbing year and despite the Tremadog guide book warning |
| of 'dangerously unstable rock',I had received enough information from John Neill,the recently deceased CC archivist,to suggest that the route would probably be worth while.Certainly Paul Work thought so suggesting the route well worth doing and having an alpine character. Although only graded diff,the route was probably more like severe.As expected,the route was actually very entertaining with a very testing third pitch encompassing some steep faces,loose rock and exposed situations.the final pitch-see photo above-was very photogenic,if only we had someone situated on the saddle between Snowdon and Yr Aran and we had started early enough to catch the morning sun ! I found it good enough for me to want to have another crack at it,possibly using a harder,more direct variation next time.If you fancy a crack at an obscure mountaineering route then I'd recommend Shadow Ridge. E mail me if you want further details. |
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| Clogwyn Du:Cwm Tregalen:Snowdon N Wales.Shadow Ridge is the on the right edge of the main cliff.. |
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