1. Well, of course, the ideal is for this training to be started by the breeder as soon as he/she starts putting down any sort of food for the puppies. What I do with a litter is start calling "puppy,puppy come" as I put down the food dishes and continue doing this as I put the pups up to the dishes. It doesn't take the little critters long to learn that "come" means food. As they get older I continue to do this, always having a pocket full of treats and, as they come to me, I pick them up, love them and give them a treat. About 8-10 weeks of age I start using treats only for actual show training, totally without a lead. At this point in their training I play them off each other to get ears up and stand. It doesn't take any time at all for pups to associate "come" with only good things, treats and attention. Nor to get the idea of stand and show.

I realize that most of us get our dogs at an older age than 2-4 weeks but the principle is the same. If you make "come" a good thing you have a very good chance your dog will come to you when called. Formal recalls come much later but you have already built the basis for coming to you being an enjoyable thing. And, as we all know, never, never, but never call any dog to you and then correct it for some infraction. Come must always mean something good.

2. There are several that I see on a regular basis that bother me but the most glaring, across the board is the way many exhibitors set the dog's front. Those feet should go straight down under the dog with the legs at a 90 degree angle to the ground. Many exhibitors set the feet too far forward so that the leg bones are not straight up and down but at a slight slope. Just take a good look at show pictures and see how true this is. It not only gives a false appearance to the shoulder angle and the balance of the dog but also often "softens" the topline.

The second most common error I see is the way exhibitors enter the ring. They schluck into the ring not really paying much attention to how the dog looks until they get lined up. THEN they start to show their dog. In many cases the judge has already gotten a first impression. Walk into the ring showing your dog. Have it looking its best from the second you start into that ring. Always remember this is a dog SHOW!!

3. I would suggest crate training. Get one that is large enough that he can stand up and turn around, and when he lies down can turn around. But not big enough that he can use one part of the crate to sleep in and another to relieve himself. Dilligently crate him when you cannot watch him or when you will be away. The instant you let him out of his crate, take him outside and stay with him until he relieves himself. You must make a big deal out of this and tell him what a good dog he is. Then, and only then, bring him back in for a while. Take him out often during the time he is loose in the house. And, again, make a big happy issue out of the fact that he relieves himself outside as he is supposed to. Dogsdo not want to relieve themselves where they sleep and he should get the idea pretty quickly.

Crate training is important as it is a place to put a dog when you are away from home, when you have company that is not "doggy" and when traveling. Make it afriendly place to be with toys, biscuts, his favorite blanket etc. DO NOT use it to correct him.

4. Don't panic! I have seen this so often that it becomes almost the norm. This highly intelligent animal has suddenly realized that you have the upper hand and he is making one last bid for juvinile delinquency. My suggestion is to go back to working him totally onleash. No off-lead work at all. Treat him just as a dog that has had no training with the simple exception that you put him through all of the excercises except the heel off-lead. If nessecary, physically sit him at every halt. Use a tug on the recall. In fact, I would go back to the comefore. DO NOT loose patience, loose your temper or go to maximum harsh corrections. Just do give him the opportunity to get away with anything. This final stubborness, this final rebelion should pass in a week or so and you will have a good, stready working dog for your efforts.

5. First of all, until she is trained, DO NOT let her off leash at the truck stops. Then, never call her in a serious manner or give her a command to come unlessyou areable to enforce it if she refuses, and when she refuses, DO enforce it EVERY SINGLE TIME. For example, in a fenced back yard, pleasantly call her to you. If she decides to play games, DO NOT CALL HER AGAIN, but very slowly and determinedly, without speaking a word track her down until you get ahold of her with both hands on the sides of her neck as she faces you. Then with a slight pulling action (not enough to frighten her but just enough to get her and keep her moving with you), repeating come a few times in a pleasant but commanding voice as you back up to the position from which you originally called her. Once you get her there, praise her, play with her, love her, fed her if you must. Anything to make her realize that coming to you will bring only pleasure. You must be very careful not to make this punitive nor to stomp and yell and frighten her. Just a calm, quiet, POSITIVE approach, a no-nonsense GUIDENCE and then praise to the skies. This will not work unless she is in a confined area everytime you try it. And the command you us to call her should never be used unless you are in a situation where you can enforce it until she is thoroughly trained to come when called. When she does come on the first call make it a super pleasant experience so she will realize that coming to you is the one thing above all that she really wants to do.