You will find here the step-by-step training that I am doing for my ponies. Use professional help when needed.If you cannot get help from a professional trainer, then look for an experienced driver for answers to your questions. A good idea is to join a driving discussion group or driving club. There are many helpful books to read. One of my favorites is Doris Ganton's Breaking and Training the Driving Horse. This book will help you with the basics of training your pony or horse.
NUMBER ONE RULE: WEAR A HELMET!
Before starting in harness the pony must know how to walk on, trot, and whoa by voice commands. Then and only then can a pony be trained to harness.The first thing that I do is get my pony used to the harness. To do this I hang the harness on the paddock rail to start. Once the pony gets used to seeing it hanging there I then hang it close to where I am grooming. From there I would take the bridle (without the reins attached) and rub it all over the body. Starting at the girth area and working back then from the girth and working forward. Do not put the bridle on yet. The back pad is next. Once again working at the girth area first. Then moving it back over the pony's rump. I do not attempt to do up the back pad yet. Next is the breeching. Even if the pony is not going to use the breeching I get them used to it anyway. That way if I later need to use it I don't have to start all over again. The breeching is very important for the pony to get used to because if a pony is scared of the feel of the breeching later can have a kicking fit. So take your time and play around with it. Going up and down the hind legs and side to side with the breeching is a good idea. I will do this for three or more days for periods of no more then fifteen minutes at a time. After the lesson I give my pony a good brush and lots of rewards. Rewards being voice or treats. On the fourth day I do up the back pad, put on the bridle (do not attach the check rein or crupper) and hook up the breeching. After this is all done I walk the pony around letting him get used to the feel of everything. This will go much quicker if the pony is already broke to have a saddle on. I leave the crupper and the check rein for the fifth day. A crupper holds the back pad in position and stops the back pad from being pulled up onto the withers by the force on the check rein. The check rein keeps the pony from putting his down therefore stopping him from the impulse to kick. If needed a running martingale is used to keep the pony from throwing it's head up. The fifth day starts just like the fourth only this time the check rein is attached. After attaching the check rein loosely the pony is walked around to get used of it. A nose band may be added if the pony is showing signs of opening its mouth. The crupper is left for last as it will be uncomfortable until the pony is used to it. I help my ponies by lifting the tail a few times and by putting my hand under the tail before I add the crupper. That way I can judge what their reaction is going to be like. Attach the crupper and once again walk the pony to get it used to all the harness. Repeat the stages of day five for three or more days. Depending on how you pony feels about it all.
Now is the time to invest in a good set of walking shoes. To start off the pony I like to use a helper. I tack up the pony and add the lines to the pony's bridle. It is easier to do this after the bridle is on. I put the reins through the shaft loop on the back pad which gives better control. My helper will lead the pony from the head and I stand back and off to the side of the pony. Do not stand behind as there is too much of a chance of getting kicked. I am the one that controls the direction and the forward movement using the reins and my voice. After the pony is used to going forward the helper can slowly move back and away from the pony's head. On the first day I only do large circles or straight lines. I now go every where I can. The pony can never get enough of ground driving. The more time you take ground driving the better the pony gets. I do not worry about head set or any thing like that. My main goal is let the pony see all the things it may spook at before it is hooked to a cart. If it is raining I take the pony puddle jumping. Well not exactly jumping but walking through a puddle is good training. The mud will wash off. If there are any strange dogs around I like to take the pony by them as long as the owners of the dogs are there to call the dogs if they get to close. I have my kids ride their bikes by the pony or just make lots of noise. The more distractions the better. Ground driving lasts for the minimum of two or three weeks and for the maximum of forever. Once the pony can do turns, figures, halts, and circles readily and smoothly he is ready for the next step.
Using the traces as a training tool is a good idea. This should be done before attempted to use poles. To do this I have a helper. The pony is tacked up with all the harness including the breast collar and traces. Make sure the breast collar is in the proper position. The helper gathers up the traces and attaches a lead or other type of rope to it. While I ground drive the pony the helper holds the lead as far behind the pony as they can and holding it level to the ground. Start the pony off at a good strong walk. After a turn or two of the area the helper pulls back on the lead. Do not pull too hard the first time and slacking off again. If the pony hesitates or wants to stop keep it moving. The helper continues to pull and slack off the lead for longer periods of time. I do this for 15 minutes then stop. I ground drive for another five minutes working on the best thing the pony can do being it circles or figures. Over the next few days my helper and I continue this procedure until the helper is getting almost dragged around the area. Next will be the breeching. You need a extra set of driving lines or couple of lunge lines. Put the breeching on and attach the lines to the rings, take them forward and through the shaft loops. You will have to put your driving reins through the rein turrets on the saddle for this lesson. Once the extra lines are though the shaft loops have it come back to the helper behind the pony. Now start ground driving for a bit. Just like the traces take your time and have the helper pull on the lines and slack off. The trick is to make sure the pony doesn't go faster once feeling the pressure on the breeching. He may get a bit confused. He has learned to go foward when pressure was put on the traces but no he has to learn to not go forward with a pressure from the breeching. Use lots of verbal communication with your helper. Let each other know when there is going to be pressure on the breeching that way you will be ready.Now it is time for the poles.
Make a set of poles. You will need:Lay the poles on the ground and follow the picture below.
- poles: two green trees (soft wood is better then hard wood) they must be two to three inches in diameter at the tips and as straight as possible.
- crossbar: one 2x6 about 40 inches across
- hooks: two very sturdy hooks for your traces to hook onto
- nails to hold the crossbar
I put the finished poles into the pony's paddock. Letting the pony get a good look at it. Do not leave it in there without supervision. Tack up the pony and then drive him around the poles even walking over them. My helper then comes in and holds the poles by the tips. I drive him closer to the poles. Once he is used to this my helper then drags the pole ahead of the pony. I drive the pony up to the side of the poles and right by the poles as they are being dragged. Eventually the poles end up behind us. When I hit this point I end the lesson with something the pony does very well. Day three the lesson starts like day two. This time my helper and I take turns passing each other. Make sure that the poles are dragged by both sides of the pony. Keep doing day three lesson for as many days as needed until the pony goes quietly and has accepted the poles completely. So next all of the ground driving and dragging is put to the test. I like to hitch the pony to the poles from a point that he will have to walk the longest straight line before he has to turn. When I do ask him to turn I want to do a nice wide turn just like a semi truck does. Having two helpers at this point is a good idea. Three are even better. Have one helper at the pony's head, one on each side and I would be holding the reins. Bring the poles behind the pony with the points up. Do not poke the pony in the rump. The poles must be higher then the rump. With each side helper holding a point bring it up over the pony and down the sides and into place in the tugs. Once the points are in place attach the traces as so as possible without spooking the pony. I stand either to the left or to the right of the poles. Not behind them. It is not only safer it gives a better control. (If I need to cross over to the other side I first stop the pony and move over.) I have the pony stand for a bit before I ask him to walk off. Have all the helpers stay in their positions and when everyone is ready then off we go. For the first hook up I don't like to go any longer the 10 minutes. I gradually add five minutes every other day. I drive lots of straight lines before attempting circles or other figures. Once the pony is doing good at the poles at the walk then if you can keep up then try some trotting. Beware of the poles bouncing around. Again go everywhere including places with different ground surface. Give as many distractions that the pony can handle. Going through puddles and such are great lessons.
Hitching to the CartOnce you are confident that your pony has learned as much as he can with the poles you can move onto the hitching or being hooked for the first time. Do the same thing with the cart as you did with the poles. Put the cart into the pony's paddock and let him get used to it. Walk around with it. Have someone lead the pony and follow him around. Get up beside him and such. Once he has gotten relaxed with this put on the harness and walk around with the cart again. Make as much noice as you can. Run over bumps, add some branches and run them over, make a puddle and go through it and even go over a tarp. When nothing seems to bug the pony anymore get ready for that first hitch. Like the poles you want to start out in a streight line with very little turning if possible. Make big wide turns. Having two helpers is a very good thing. Have one hold the pony's head. Then one on the other side of the pony. Bring up the cart. Do not hit the pony with the shafts. Slowly slide the shafts into the loops. Do up the under saddle straps then attach the traces. Do up the breeching. Remember to use the proper method for wrapping the straps. Get a good book with pictures! Ok, now you are ready and let us hope that the pony is too. Gather up your reins and stand to the side of the cart. Ask your pony to walk on. Your helper leading the pony should just be there to stop the pony from taking off to fast once it feels the pressure of the traces. The person on the end of the reins is controling the pony. give lots of warning to the leader when you are going to attempt a turn. Don't run the helper over. If the pony does good after a couple of rounds then stop. Let him have a couple of days off to think things over. Stay with walking for the first few days. Then a bit of trotting can be done. Keep a person at the pony's head for as long as you think the pony needs the support. Get the helper to back off a bit after a while. By the fourth or fifth hooking the helper should be able to let the pony go on it's own. When you are confident that the pony is ready, get into the cart. Do this slowly with out to much bouncing around. Take your time and do as much work as you can at the walk before attempting to do it at the trot. You should never let your pony canter while in harness. NO cowboy stuff.
So now you think you are ready to get out there and drive! You have done everything you can with your pony. You have gotten him used to all the tack, have hitched him to the cart, gotten into the cart and you are both tired of doing circles. Is your pony used to traffic? If not then find a paddock that is close to the road. Give him some company that is used to traffic. Take him for walks down the road with just a halter and lead. If there is lots of grass on the side of the road distract him with it. Just make sure there has been no noxious weed spraying done in the area. He will figure out that the big scary things are not going to run him over. Take some time and figure out what time of day there is the least traffic on the road you plan to drive on. Have your first route figured out before you leave. Think about where you are going to turn around. It is better to have a side road to turn around in. Try not to turn around in the middle of the road as your pony will figure out that this is the turning point and will bulk the next time you want to continue past the point. Play it safe and take your time.May you have a lot of great drives ahead of you. I hope this helps some of you out there. Teaching your pony to drive is a wonderful way to keep that out grown but well loved pony in the family. Happy driving!
Email:Contact Winnie
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