FIVE DAYS HORSEBACK

July 25 - 29, 1999

The short hikes that I have taken have only whetted my desire for more backcountry experiences. Bleu Sky Pack Station offers backcountry trips in Yellowstone National Park through the Yellowstone Institute. How could anyone pass up this opportunity: five days horsepacking the Snake River?

Meeting at the Heart Lake Trailhead, my companions for the next five days assembled in anticipation of an experience of a lifetime. And, soon we were being instructed on how to saddle a horse, how to make manny packs with our equipment to go the mules. Were we nervous about being in grizzly country many miles from the nearest road? Of course, we were, but we had a great cadre to see us through. Richard Clark, cowboy turned college professor and owner of Bleu Sky, can instill confidence in anyone. Ruth, New York lady and writer for numerous magazines, as well as, the Wall Street Journal, gave explicit instructions in a soft voice. Abbey Ferris, 20 year old hired wrangler, knew her stuff and watched to make sure we did it right.

Finally, we were off to a late start on a fifteen-mile ride to our first campsite. Heart Lake Trail is beautiful, but it pales in comparison to Heart Lake at sunset. The sun set early over Mount Sheridan, but still illuminated the mountains to the east. The lake was calm with ducks settling in for the night. The grass was almost stirrup high. Backpackers were in their campsites making supper around campfires. But, we had miles to go before we'd sleep and a campsite to set up in the dark.

The rising sun woke us to see the horses and mules grazing in a meadow with a clear creek flowing through it. Dick had coffee brewing. Since Ken and I were the first ones up, we were assigned the task of making breakfast of eggs and bacon and camp cleanup afterwards. Everyone would be assigned one meal to make and cleanup, Ken and I got ours out of the way.

After saddling the horses for a day ride, we were off to see the Heart River, get a lecture on the wild flowers, and a history lesson on Gus Doane's expedition through this area in 1870. The dramatic scenery made the sore muscles only a minor nuisance. We were enamoured with just being horseback. Dick loved to tell how flowers are constructed and how Gus Doane's journals convinced congress to make Yellowstone a national park. Of course, I was very pleased when Dick said, "Erv, lead us back to camp".

Each day we packed up the mules, saddled the horses, and rode to a new campsite. The scenery made every ride a pleasure, but no ride could top the ride over the mountain to look down on the Snake River Canyon. Down the mountain we rode, forded the river, and rode like conquerors into our new campsite. A huge buck mule deer hurried across the meadow into the woods. That night after supper, Dick led us in cowboy songs around the campfire as the horses grazed in the meadow. The moon made the river a ribbon of light in the dark canyon. Almost on cue, coyotes from across the river joined us in a chorus.

We became deeply attached to our horses, and Chief was attached to me. He was an easy horse to ride, because he not only knew what he was doing, he followed directions easily. One morning when the horses were no where to be seen, Abby and I took lead ropes and went looking for them. Soon we were riding bareback into camp leading the herd. I had never been around mules before. They are easy to like. They carry heavy loads and never falter. Ruth says they think they are horses, but horses know they are mules.

The last evening a light rain began to fall. We put up a large canvas and did without a campfire. During the night, the bugling of a bull elk broke the sound of rain falling on the tent. The next morning, we packed up and set off for the trailhead through a forest of fir trees, not the trailhead where we began, but one just on the edge of the park near the south entrance. We knew we had to ford the Snake River, but Ruth had alluded to the crossing of the swift Heart River as well. Coming over the hill, I saw two rivers joining to form one river. For all my concern, it went well. I was leading the mules as we entered the Snake and soon had water up to our stirrups. We went immediately into the Heart where the current tried to push us down stream. Ahead of us were the first automobiles we had seen in five days and the end of our journey.