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AMERICA (EASTERN HEARTLAND)

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Philadelphia Snapper Soup


2½ pounds snapping-turtle meat,        ½ c finely chopped celery
   thoroughly defrosted if frozen,     ½ c finely chopped carrot
   cut into 2-inch pieces              1 tsp finely chopped garlic 
1½ c flour                             1 quart beef stock, fresh or canned 
 1 tsp salt                            2 T tomato paste
 ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper     1 medium-sized bay leaf, finely
 ½ pound lean salt pork, trimmed         crumbled 
   of all rind, the pork cut into      ½ tsp crumbled dried thyme 
   ¼-inch dice                         1 c water (optional)
 1 c finely chopped onions             2 T dry Madeira
                      ------------------------------  

Pat the snapper meat completely dry with paper towels. Then combine the flour, salt and pepper in a paper bag, add the snapper pieces and shake vigorously to coat all sides evenly. Remove the meat from the bag and, one piece at a time, shake off the excess flour.

In a heavy 4- to 5-quart casserole, fry the pork dice over moderate heat until it is crisp and brown and has rendered all its fat. Transfer the dice to paper towels to drain. Brown the snapper 4 or 5 pieces at a time in the fat remaining in the pan. Turn the pieces frequently with a slotted spoon and regulate the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. As they brown, transfer them to a plate.

Pour off all but about 3 T of the fat from the pan and add the onions, celery, carrot and garlic. Stir over moderate heat until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Stir in the beef stock, tomato paste, bay leaf, thyme and reserved pork bits. Bring to a boil over high heat and add the snapper and the liquid that has accumulated around it.

Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for 2 hours, or until the snapper is tender and shows no resistance when pierced with the point of a small, sharp knife. Check the pan from time to time and regulate the heat to keep the soup at a gentle simmer. Add up to 1 cup of water if the liquid cooks away too rapidly.

Stir in the Madeira, taste for seasoning, and serve the snapper soup from a heated tureen. Serves 6 to 8.

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