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AMERICA (EASTERN HEARTLAND)

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Lobster Thermidor


 4 live 1½-pound lobsters               ¼ tsp ground hot red pepper
 3 T butter, plus 4 tsp butter cut        (cayenne) 
   into ¼-inch bits                     2 drops Tabasco sauce
 1 c finely chopped fresh mushrooms    1½ tsp salt
 ¼ c brandy                             ¼ c freshly grasted imported
 2 c heavy cream                          Parmesan cheese 
 6 egg yolks, lightly beaten            ¼ c soft fresh crumbs made from
 1 T Worcestershire sauce                 homemade-type white bread,
 1 T finely chopped pimiento              pulverized in a blender or
 1 T finely chopped fresh parsley         finely shredded with a fork  
                            ----------------------  
Pour enough water into a 12- to 14-quart pot to fill it halfway, and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Plunge two of the lobsters headfirst into the pot. Both the lobsters should be entirely submerged; if not, add more boiling water.

Cover the pot tightly, return the water to a boil, then reduce the heat to moderate and boil the lobsters for 15 minutes. Regulate the heat if necessary to prevent the water from boiling over, but keep the liquid at a boil throughout the cooking.

To test for doneness, remove one lobster from the pot. Grasp the end of one of the small legs at either side of the body and jerk it sharply. If the leg pulls away from the body, the lobster is done. If the leg remains attached to the body, boil the lobsters for 2 or 3 minutes longer.

With tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked lobsters to a platter to drain, and boil the remaining 2 lobsters in the same water, adding more water if necessary.

One at a time, place the boiled lobsters on a cutting board. Twist off the large claws at the point where they meet the body, crack each claw in two or three places with a cleaver, and pick out all the meat. Cut the lobster meat into ½-inch pieces and reserve it; discard the claw shells.

Twist off the antennae and the legs and discard them. Turn the lobster on its back and, with kitchen scissors, cut lengthwise through the soft tail and stomach shell. Remove and discard the gelatinous sac (stomach) in the head and the long white intestinal vein attached to it. Scoop out and save the greenish-brown Tomalley (liver) and the red coral (roe) if any. Lift ther tail meat out in one piece and cut it into ½-inch cubes. Set the lobster meat and body shell aside and prepare the three remaining lobsters in the same manner.

About half an hour before you plan to serve the lobsters, preheat the oven to 350°. In a heavy 10- to 12-inch skillet, melt 3 T of butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the mushrooms and, stirring occasionally, cook uncovered for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the liquid that accumulates in the pan has evaporated. Do not let the mushrooms brown. Stir in the rerserved lobster meat.

Warm the brandy in a small saucepan over low heat, ignite it with a match, and pour it flaming over the lobster mixture a little at a time, sliding the skillet gently back and forth until the flame dies. Stir in the cream and cook over moderate heat until it comes to a boil.

Reduce the heat to its lowest setting. Ladle about 2 T of the hot cream into the egg yolks, mix well, and pour the mixture into the skillet. Stirring constantly, simmer over low heat for 2 or 3 minutes, until the sauce thickens and is smooth. Do not let the sauce come anywhere near a boil or the egg yolks will curdle.

Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the Worcestershire, pimiento, parsley, red pepper, Tabasco and salt. Taste for seasoning. Spoon the lobster-and-mushroom mixture and the sauce into the reserved shells, dividing the mixture evenly among them. Mix together the grated cheese and bread crumbs, and sprinkle them over the lobsters. Dot the tops with the 4 tsp of butter bits.

Arrange the lobsters side by side on one or two large baking sheets and bake in the middle of the oven for about 15 minutes, or until the sauce has begun to bubble and the crumb topping has become golden brown. Serve at once. Serves 4.

NOTE: After the lobsters are boiled, the lobster meat and body shells may be separately covered with foil or plastic wrap and safely kept in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours. Or, if you prefer, lobster thermidor may be completely assembled ready for baking, then tightly wrapped and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.

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