My orchids

You can find detailed information about the following orchid genera, which are some of the ones I grow on the following links, I will soon be adding more information, about other kinds, feel free to ask if you like any specific information about another kind of orchid. I will be glad to put it online for you and make the research if it need it.

On the table below you will find general information about the principal orchid groups.

General Cultural Chart for Popular Genera of Orchids

Ascocenda	Cattleya	Cymbidium	Dendrobium	Epidendrum	Laelia
Miltonia	Odontoglossum	Oncidium	Paphiopedilum	Phalaenopsis	Vandas

VARIETY	WATERING	TEMPERATURE	FOOD AND LIGHT	WHEN TO POT	POTTING MEDIA
Orchids in General (mostly epiphytic) Go Back	Orchids in general like quite a lot of water but cannot stand "wet feet". Most orchids have roots designed to be exposed to air and to dry out between waterings. Therefore, most orchids prefer heavy waterings, using copious amounts that really flush out the pots. Then they do not want to be watered again until quite dry all through the potting material. Frequency of watering depends on pot size, type of potting material, amount of light, ventilation, humidity in their particular growing place and conditions. Watering in bark mixes which include redwood fiber and peat moss is a much more critical matter and should be done very carefully to avoid rotting off roots and turning the mix sour. Water heavily at first, then by care-observation, water again only when material becomes dry a considerable distance down in the pot. Water only enough to dampen the material and watch out that you do not keep it soggy wet, particularly in the bottom of the pot. Deciduous types should not be watered when completely leafless. Stop watering when leaves yellow and start to drop. Resume watering as soon as new growth starts.	Most commonly grown tropical orchids fall into 3 general categories of temperature requirements: Cool: Day: 55-70° F Night: 45° F Intermediate: Day – 60-75° F Night – 50-60° F Warm: Day: 60-80° F Night: 55-70° F These categories are only general and many orchids do well in two of the three categories. Individual plants of many types will often do better in the next warmer category than listed for them as the listings were originally designed by frugal European orchid growers trying to economize on their heating costs.	Food and light go together in orchid culture, as the plants can use more food when given more light. If the foliage of the plant is yellowish, it needs more food. If lush dark green, it needs more light. The proper balance of food and light gives a medium grass-green color for foliage of most orchids. In general orchids will grow strongly and flower best if given as much light as possible without burning the leaves. This will vary according to the season and the light intensity in your locality. Feeding should be increased – used more often – when plants are in active growth, at least once a week during the growing season, then reduced slightly when not in active growth. Most growers use a soluble, hydroponic plant food in the water they water with. Occasional waterings with plain water will leach out any accumulation of food in the potting material, but regular and often feeding will keep a constant supply of food available to the plant for optimum results. Seedlings in general need somewhat more shade than larger plants, which should be gradually reduced as they approach maturity.	There are two good times to repot. The best is just as new seasonal root growth starts, so that the plant becomes re-established in the new material as soon as possible with as little resulting setback as possible. Careful observation of the individual plants will show you when as different ones start roots at different times in their growth cycle; some start new roots just as the new growth starts – other start roots when new growth is about half formed, and still others only after their new growth is complete. The next best time to repot is during the dormant cycle after flowering and just before, or as, the new growth starts. In general, it is best to disturb the roots as little as possible in repotting, but all old dead roots and deteriorated potting material should be removed every time you repot. When changing from one potting material to another, all the old material should be removed even at the cost of losing many of the roots. Seedlings should be potted up to next-larger size regularly and often. If left too long in too-small pot, growth slows down and permanent stunting may occur.	Many different potting materials are used successfully in orchid culture and each has its advantages and disadvantages. Most orchids will do well in any of these if growing conditions and culture are varied to fit the one being used. It is usually best, however, to pick out one type for your collection and stick to it, changing new plants from whatever they’re in when you get them to your own preferred material as soon as possible for ease of consistent culture under your conditions. Nothing is more difficult than trying to maintain a collection in a variety of potting materials with widely varying needs for watering and feeding. For controlled conditions under glass with good ventilation and relatively low humidity, either osmunda fiber or any of the various fir and redwood bark mixes are very good, but watering must be carefully controlled. For outdoor, garden or lathhouse conditions where humidity is high and watering is uncontrolled, or for people who like to water heavily and often (as many beginners do) then either treefern, or one of the coarse, inorganic potting materials such as gravel, broken tile or brick, or very coarse bark, without finer additives, would be best.
Ascocenda Go Back	- same as Vanda culture below.
Cattleya (epiphytic) Go Back	Soak thoroughly when watering, then let compost dry out before rewatering. After repotting, do not water for about two weeks, but fog-spray foliage to reduce drying. Resume watering as new roots appear.	Intermediate: 55-60° F night; 60-75° F by day. Prefer 10-12° F differential night/day.	As much light as possible without burning. More shade for seedlings.	When new growth begins to root, or just as new growth starts.	Fill bottom 1/3 of pot with broken crock. Use dampened osmunda and force firmly into pot. With bark, use one piece of crock and large pieces of bark in bottom of pot. Cattleyas do well in gravel, too.

VARIETY	WATERING	TEMPERATURE	FOOD AND LIGHT	WHEN TO POT	POTTING MEDIA
Cymbidium (mostly terrestrial) Go Back	Supply water abundantly and often during growing season. Newly potted should run dryer, but spray often till rooted, then resume normal watering.	Cool, about 50° F nights and 70-80° F days. Try to get 20-25° F differential between night and day.	As much light as possible during growth (summer). Yellowish foliage is okay. When in flower, shade heavily.	Repot after flowering, but repot only as necessary, as repotting retards flowering generally.	Fir bark; fir bark plus peat moss or sand; fir bark, peat moss, redwood fiber, leaf mold and some sand in large container.
Dendrobium (epiphytic)	Water and feed heavily and often while in active growth. Reduce frequency when growth matures and allow to dry out between waterings. Evergreen types need only slight drying between waterings, but nobile and other deciduous types should be watered very sparingly in fall and winter: must cause leaves to drop but avoid excessive shriveling. Resume water when flower buds and/or new growth appears in late winter and early spring. If leaves of deciduous types do not drop by Jan. 1st, then cut them off to ensure heaviest and best flowering.	Nobile and other deciduous types prefer cool to intermediate night temperatures in fall and winter. Warmer in spring and summer. Evergreen types and many of the pendant cane types prefer warm conditions; night temperatures above 60° F.	Slight shading till new growths mature, then all the light the plant can stand without burning. Stronger light, cooler night temperatures and less watering in fall and winter months help "ripen" the bulbs and ensure optimum flowering.	Very compact at base. Can stay for many years in the same pot. Repot only when necessary, at the time new growth or new roots start. Set small, top-heavy pots in larger pots to avoid toppling instead of repotting to larger pot simply for stability.	Can use bark, osmunda or fiber. Avoid overpotting by using small containers which drain and dry quickly. Support by staking.
Epidendrum (mostly epiphytic) Go Back	Water well during growth. Less often when not in active growth.	Intermediate or warm generally best.	Most varieties respond to maximum light.	After flowering. Only when outgrowing pot. Do no disturb unless necessary.	Gravel, medium bark or osmunda except for terrestrials which like cymbidium mix.
Laelia (epiphytic) Go Back	Water thoroughly, then allow compost to dry before rewatering. Give intense rest with little watering after flowering. Spray foliage.	Intermediate or warm except for alpine plants which prefer cool conditions.	All light possible without burning. Airy location.	When new growth begins after rest period and new roots have started to show.	Drainage is important. Coarse gravel is good, or osmunda, first placing crock in bottom third of pot or med. bark with large pieces in bottom.
Miltonia (epiphytic) Go Back	Water abundantly during spring and summer. Less during dull winter weather. Do not reduce watering on newly potted plants.	75-80° F in summer, not below 60° F during winter. Cool but not cold.	Extra shading always needed during the summer months.	Repot preferably in spring months or any time during year if new root growth is evident.	Fir bark recommended for potting: medium size either straight or with peat moss & sponge rock mixed in it. Osmunda can be used either straight or with sphagnum moss.
Odontoglossum (epiphytic) Go Back	With good drainage and good air circulation pots may be kept quite moist. Fog-spray several times daily on bright days. After repotting, avoid overwatering.	Min. night 45° F; max. day 70° F best. Cooling devices needed if summer is hot (above 80° F.	Rather heavy shading in summer, much light in the winter, but watch warning of too much light in pink tones of foliage.	September or March	Finely chopped osmunda with a little sand, charcoal or half-decayed oak leaves, or seedling-sized bark with a little peat moss and sponge rock.
Oncidium (epiphytic) Go Back	Abundance of water during growth; when growth is complete, curtail water, but never allow bulbs or leaves to shrivel.	Warm or intermediate temperatures with good air circulation, cooler in summer.	Abundance of light; usually like to be near the glass.	After flowering and when new growth commences, avoid watering until new roots appear.	Coarse osmunda, with ample drainage crock in pot, or large bark, or mix of bark, and pumice or sponge rock.
VARIETY	WATERING	TEMPERATURE	FOOD AND LIGHT	WHEN TO POT	POTTING MEDIA
Paphiopedilum (terrestrial) Go Back	Keep moist at all times, even newly potted plants. Use large amount of water each time.	Intermediate. Mottled-leaf types 65° F; green leaf types 60° F at night.	Need shading from direct sunlight. Medium shade for greenhouse; filtered shade for outdoor culture.	After flowering. Some potting materials good for two years; others only one. Don’t wait until the mix becomes muck.	¼ inch bark, osmunda or a mixture of leaf mold and redwood fiber. No crock in bottom of pot.
Phalaenopsis (epiphytic)	Never allow plants to dry out. Several daily fog-sprays necessary to maintain high humidity. Dry out plants slightly before repotting so roots will not be brittle. Can water and feed every day when potted in the gravel – resulting growth/flowering is fantastic.	Warm, 65-75° F. High humidity. Maintain adequate ventilation without drafts. Constant fans are a great benefit.	Always need some shade from direct sunlight. In areas of intense light will require cloth shade in addition to glass shade. Feed often and regularly.	Summer, after flowering. Repot only when compost requires changing or when all roots are on top.	Coarse fir bark, or dampened pulled osmunda or osmunda and live sphagnum. Crock bottom third of short pots, more in tall. Save all old roots possible.
Vanda (epiphytic) Go Back	Abundant watering and atmospheric moisture at all times but with abundant air circulation without chilling.	High temperature by day not harmful. Min. night temperature 58° F. Avoid sudden drops in temperature.	Much light with no winter shading. Require more light and food than most other orchids.	When new roots start, generally in warm weather. Save all old roots. Cracks in roots when bending into pot do no harm.	Leave air spaces between particles in whatever medium. Can use coarse bark or straight osmunda. Do not pot hard. Roots are thick and blunt. Many growers use empty slat baskets.

If you have any comment or suggestion please feel free to email me

Kitty_ni@yahoo.com

This page was last updated on 10/16/03.