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"Choosing
A Breeder"
"A man's soul can be
judged
by the way that he treats his dog." |
- 1. A good breeder GENERALLY does not
advertise in the newspaper. Often, their pups are sold by word of mouth because of
their reputation. However, SOME responsible breeders may advertise in the newspaper
at times, so one must use their judgement when reading the "pet classifieds".
If you are looking in the
newspaper, read the ad carefully. Are the parents titled? Are the parents
screened for health problems? Is the terminology correct in the ad? Watch out
for "full blood" breeds (every dog should be full of blood), and don't be swayed
by "champion lines". It could be that the pups have a champion 6
generations back in their pedigree, and this justifies the breeder to write "champion
lines". Is the breed name spelled correctly? Of course, typesetters
sometimes make the typo-s. Remember "papers" do not mean quality. It
only means that both parents of the litter were registered in a kennel registry.
Phrases To Be
Cautious Of In Breeder's Ads
A Guide To
Classified Ads
Reading Classified Ads
Why not try asking your
breed club, training club, vet or groomer for referrals? It is a start.
- 2. A good breeder never sells their
puppies to brokers or pet stores etc. Also, beware of the breeder who tries to
sell their pups at a dog show. Sometimes, these are the last of the litter and the
breeder hopes to snare an unsuspecting/impulsive person at the show. Note:
These dogs can still be from a quality breeder or breeding, but just beware.
- 3. A good breeder asks you as many
questions as you ask them, and often more. Don't be taken aback if the breeder seems
to be evaluating YOU.
- 4. A good breeder stands behind their
dogs and puppies for the life-time of the dog, meaning that they will take back any dog or
puppy for ANY reason that a buyer can no longer keep it, just like a good rescue does.
A good breeder will refund your money (or replace the puppy or give you a second
puppy) in case of a genetic or health fault in the pup as stipulated in a contract.
However, beware of contracts. Because a breeder offers a contract, it does not mean
that he will stand behind it. Read the wording carefully. Some breeders know
the loopholes such as "crippling hip dysplasia". If the pup develops hip
dysplasia and is not crippled by the age that the contract stipulates, the breeder can
escape any responsibility. Try contacting references who have bought from this
breeder. Investigate the breeder's reputation.
- 5. A good breeder does not always have
puppies on hand and you often have to be put on a waiting list. Many good breeders
do not breed often, and do not breed their bitches on back to back heats.
- 6. A good breeder requires a
spay / neuter contract with proof the dog was altered before you'll get papers if you are
not buying the dog for show purposes or they may offer limited
registration.
- 7. A good breeder will test their dogs
for eye, hip and any other problem that can be tested for that can affect the breed.
Also, they will provide documentation to prove that the dog(s) have been
screened. Anyone can say that a dog's hips have been OFA'd, but a buyer should ask
for backup.
- 8. A good breeder almost never breeds
more than two breeds, and usually only one. Breeders who have multiple breeds
on the property are probably in the business for reasons other than bettering the breed.
- 9. A good breeder often (but not
always) shows their dogs in conformation and/or working trials such as obedience,
Schutzhund, herding, hunting or for SAR etc. Also, remember that function follows
form and vice versa. Dogs titled at "both ends" have often proven their
correctness in structure and correctness in temperament and intelligence.
- 10. A good breeder never allows their
puppies to go before eight weeks (ideal is 9 weeks for most breeds).
- 11. A good breeder does socialization
of all their puppies (meaning the pups are exposed to eight by eight....this is eight
different "enviornments" by eight weeks, not just one room of a house, or one
pen outside.)
- 12. A good breeder will let you see
the puppies parents (one or both if both are owned by the breeder). Often,
this is a hint to what the pup will grow to look like, and you can also get a feel for the
parents' temperament.
- 13. A good breeder breeds only to improve
their line or their breed, not for the sole purpose of making money.
- 14. A good breeder truly loves their
dogs, and treats them as pets first, taking the very best care of them that they can.
More
Tips:
If at all possible, visit
the kennel and meet both parents. If the stud isn't on the property, find out where and
when he can be seen. Interact with the parents, if you don't like what you see, don't buy
a puppy. If this is a repeat breeding, ask if you can see older siblings or talk to their
owners.
Check for cleanliness, overall good general health of the animals and attention to their
safety and welfare. Do the puppies have fresh water? Are they happy and eager to see
people? Are their eyes bright and clear? Don't be surprised if they don't smell terrific.
Ask the breeders what they were trying to do when they bred this litter. What strengths in
the line were they trying to maintain? What weaknesses were they trying to improve? If the
parents have ANY sort of titles, ask to see their paperwork. This does NOT mean their
pedigree. If there is a Schutzhund title, ask to see the scorebook. If it's a CD, ask to
see the certificate. Ask for their hip ratings, either German hip stamp or OFA rating.
LOOK the OFA parents up at the OFA website.
Ask for references and CALL them.
Ask about health guarantees, and registration guarantees. Find out what your obligations
are. For instance, some breeders will not meet a hip guarantee on an overweight animal.
Some breeders require that a particular brand of food, or diet be used, or certain types
of supplements.
Ask about buy back policies. What happens if you decide you can't keep the dog?
Whether you end up buying a puppy from them or not, a breeder should be very happy to
answer your questions.
(Copied with permission from the author, Janis
Novak.)

Watch out for
these Red Flags:
Breeder does not screen
for diseases and offers no health guarantee.
Kennel is dirty and
untidy.
Several litters are born
each year.
Multiple breeds are bred
on site.
Breeder has no written
health records of the litter.
Puppies or kittens are
taken from the mother before 6 weeks of age.
Traits of Responsible Breeders |
Traits of Backyard Breeders |
"Into" Dogs (shows,
training, clubs, etc.) |
Not "into" dogs (has
"pets" around the house) |
Belongs to dog clubs and
organizations |
Is not involved in the
"dog world" |
Proves quality of dogs and
suitability for breeding by competing for titles and certificates in conformation,
obedience, agility, field trialing, Schutzhund, herding, tracking, earthdog trials, etc. |
Quality of dogs is almost
always substandard, however, he does not test his dogs in shows or trials (Dogs are just
pets or "breeding machines") |
Pups' pedigrees are filled
with dogs who have obtained show titles/working certificates; never breeds dogs without
"papers" |
Pedigrees mostly a list of
pets bred by backyard breeders; pups may not even have "papers"; may be mongrels
(Cockapoos, etc.) |
Supports rescue groups; knows
his actions inevitably play some part in pet overpopulation and euthanasia (one of every
four dogs in shelters is purebred). Even with all his efforts to stem over- population, he
knows "cracks" will lead to canine deaths |
Honestly believes that because
he places/sells all his pups, he does not contribute in any way to the needless slaughter
of millions of dogs per year in shelters (Does not see his role in his pups making pups
and them making more pups and so on) |
Knowledgeable in every facet
of breed, including that of health issues/defects; researches genetics when choosing mates
|
Not particularly educated
about breed, often not aware of his own breed's genetic defects; does not consider mate's
genetics |
Knowledgeable about house
breaking, training, socializing, breeding, health; constantly reads dog-related materials |
Has own ideas which may not
coincide with professionals' opinions; won't bother to read any of the hundreds of dog
books available |
Can and will help and educate
puppy buyers re these issues |
Says "Goodbye" and
"Good luck" |
Willing to give you his
references |
Has no references |
Knows his puppies' ancestry |
Knows nothing about the other
dogs on puppies' pedigrees |
Follows up on puppies'
well-being; collects health information affecting his dogs |
Does not concern himself with
the puppies' well-being or how puppies' health affects his breeding "plan" |
Breeds to improve his own
dogs, his bloodlines and the breed |
Breeds just to breed or make
money or see his "great dog" procreate |
Rarely breeds as he does not
use dog breeding as a business and strives for quality, not quantity |
Breeds regularly if for money
or if puppy mill; if for ego, breeds once in awhile, or "just once" before
neutering or spaying |
Rarely repeats a breeding |
Often repeats breedings,
mainly those that are cheap and convenient. |
Breeds only dogs which meet
breed standard |
Dogs used for breeding rarely
meet breed standard |
Breeds only dogs with stable
temperaments |
Breeds shy/aggressive dogs
with poor temperaments |
Breeds only dogs over 2 years
old, and a limited number of times |
Breeds dogs at almost any age,
and any number of times |
Mate choice could be anywhere
in the country (almost never breeds his own males to his own females) |
Mate choice is that which is
convenient, cheap, local (very often owns both sire and dam) |
Does all genetic testing and
will provide proof; does not breed animals with genetic defects or which are carriers of
defects |
Does no genetic testing;
ignorantly breeds defective animals or those which are carriers, thus, perpetuating
disease in breed |
Puppies are sold from waiting
list created before breeding even takes place |
Puppies are sold after birth
in the local newspaper, first-come, first-served |
Pet-quality pups generally
cost $500-600+ (show-quality costs more) |
All pups are pet-quality and
are relatively cheap, usually $200-$400 |
Puppies are sold with health
guarantees |
Puppies are sold with no
guarantee |
Puppies are sold with
contracts |
No contracts; does not care
what you do with puppies |
Requires pups back if new
homes don't work out |
Says "Find them good
homes" |
Dogs on property are friendly,
socialized, trained |
Dogs on property may be
aggressive or shy, and untrained |
Does not own more dogs than he
has room, time or money for; Dogs are groomed, exercised, healthy, happy |
Puppy mills are overloaded,
"warehoused" dogs are not groomed or exercised, don't look healthy or happy |
Will show you pups' parents if
available, or if not, will have pictures |
Might have to "lock
up" pups' aggressive or shy parents (dogs that should never have been bred) |
Raises puppies indoors |
Raises puppies outdoors |
Stays home to care for puppies
|
Dam and pups are alone for
long hours |
Feeds only premium dog food |
Feeds cheap, grocery store dog
food (containing 4D meat/chemicals) |
Visitors remove shoes and wash
hands to prevent spread of parvovirus |
Has no understanding and takes
no precautions to prevent puppy-killer disease |
Keeps pups with mom and litter
a minimum of 49 days to ensure sibling socialization and important lessons from pups'
mother |
Doesn't know leaving litter
earlier can cause lifelong temperament problems or staying too long can hurt bonding with
humans |
Socializes pups by
systematically handling them and exposing them to various noises, children and other
animals before sending them to new homes |
Does not understand or want to
be troubled with any kind of training; just tries to keep puppies quiet and contained
until sold |
Tests pups to match their
temperaments and drives with buyers' personalities and lifestyles |
Knows nothing about
puppy-testing or matching puppies with buyers; allows buyers to pick the
"cutest" one |
Can honestly evaluate pups'
quality |
Says all pups are high quality |
Never sells to
"impulse" buyers |
Is not concerned about buyers
being prepared for pups |
Never sells two pups at the
same time to a novice |
Would consider this killing
two birds with one sale |
Interviews prospective buyers,
checks home and references, refuses to sell to substandard homes |
Sells first-come, first-served
to whomever has the cash; does not find out which homes are substandard |
Wants to meet whole family;
won't sell if children are abusive |
Does not consider anything
past obtaining the funds |
Sells only to buyers with
disposable income (AKC reports it costs $1327 per year to properly care for a dog) |
Is not concerned whether or
not buyers can afford to properly care for pups |
Waits for buyers who offer
lifelong homes (Knows that only 30 percent of all dogs stay in one home throughout their
lives) |
Does not reject high-risk
buyers: (renters, young people, those with poor track records, low income, other pets,
dogs kept outdoors) |
Understands dogs are
"pack" animals; sells pets only to buyers wanting to make pup an indoor dog and
part of the family |
Doesn't care if pups live as
outdoor dogs or chained dogs, being unhappy or anxious being isolated and separated from
"packs" |
Sells only to buyers who make
pup's safety a priority |
Does not consider pups' best
interests |
Encourages or requires buyers
to spay/neuter pet-quality pups |
Encourages buyers to breed,
regardless of quality |
Encourages buyers to train
pups; refers to good trainer |
Shows no concern for pups
after sale; knows no trainers |
Makes sure buyers understand
pup's considerable need for time, attention, exercise and training |
Does not provide even his own
dogs with enough time, attention, exercise or training |
Responsible Breeders
Improve the Breed |
Backyard Breeders
Damage the Breed |
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Use This
Guide To Obtain A Quality Puppy
From A Responsible Breeder
And be aware that dogs are
not "things." They are living creatures who, by no choice of their own, are
totally dependent upon us - and are at our mercy - for their very survival, not to mention
quality of life. As pack animals, their mental health is dependent upon being with their
pack. That may be other animals, or it may be us. It is very cruel to leave a dog alone
all day. Dogs need a lot of attention. They need regular, systematic aerobic exercise for
at least 20-30 minutes, at least 3-4 times a week, just to be healthy. Few dogs get the
exercise they need for good physical and mental health. Lack of exercise is the number one
reason, (then lack of training), that dogs become mischievous and burdensome, and are then
blamed, then dumped, and too often, killed. ("A tired dog is a good dog.")
Having a yard is not sufficient. Dogs do not exercise themselves unless chasing something
along the fence line, and that, in and of itself, is a problem. To make good pets, they
need training. And most importantly, to be safe pets, they need early socialization. Lack
of socialization the first 4-6 months of a dog's life creates shy dogs, which too-often
become fear-biters, which, along with those who were simply born with poor temperaments,
are responsible for the majority of the 4.7 million dog bites annually. (Sixty percent of
victims are children; Half of all kids 12 and under have been bitten by a dog; Every day
more than 900 people are hospitalized with dog bites; Every year 25 people are killed by
dogs.)
If you can not be a
responsible dog owner, please wait until you can be.
And please don't breed out
of greed or ego or for any reason other than to improve the breed (i.e., to make the
puppies better than their parents). Most purebred dogs, and of course, all mixed-breed
dogs, should not be bred. The majority of dogs have some defect (in structure,
temperament, health) that should not be perpetuated. Dogs used for breeding should be free
of all defects - that's the definition of quality. ("Papers" mean nothing; They
are simply, and nothing more than, birth certificates. Plenty of dogs have
"papers," but are so poorly bred they actually look like mutts.) And no human
should ever breed any dog without veterinary/laboratory testing and pedigree research to
be sure that dog is free of (and not a carrier of) genetic defects. FAILURE TO TEST/SEARCH
FOR INHERITABLE HEALTH PROBLEMS IS THE NUMBER ONE MARK OF A BACKYARD BREEDER. IT IS ALSO
THE MOST DAMAGING TO CANINES, AND THE MOST HEARTBREAKING TO PUPPY-BUYERS, WHO END UP WITH
YET ANOTHER GENERATION OF POOR-QUALITY DOGS WHO TOO OFTEN DEVELOP EXPENSIVE, EARLY HEALTH
PROBLEMS AND OFTEN DIE PREMATURELY.
We have a severe
pet-overpopulation crisis in the US; We slaughter thousands of beautiful, vital, healthy
dogs every single day. (Twenty-five
percent of shelter dogs are purebred.) Every puppy produced by a backyard breeder and
placed in a home takes the place of one killed in a shelter because no one adopted it. And
every puppy produced by a backyard breeder can make more puppies, and those puppies can
make more puppies and so on. (And of course, backyard breeders, through their
encouragement and the dispersal of misinformation, have a knack for turning uneducated
buyers into yet more backyard breeders.) There just are not enough homes (not to mention
"good" homes) available for all these puppies. No matter how hard one tries,
only 30 percent of all dogs (and their pups and their pups and so on) live their entire
lives in the home to which they went after weaning. Seventy percent will be given away or
abandoned or dumped along the way for one reason or another. (Common excuses are, "We
didn't have time for him," "He was too much trouble," "He kept jumping
on us," "He bit my child," "We couldn't afford him," "We had
to move." None of these were good homes to begin with. The buyers failed to socialize
or train, or they lacked time, money or commitment. Again, there just are not enough
"good" homes for all the puppies born.) Why not leave breeding dogs to those
with the ability and desire and quality animals to do so at a "professional"
level?
If everyone bred only dogs
with excellent conformation, and stable, correct temperaments, working titles and clean
health, we would have top-quality dogs in this country. Get your dog evaluated by judges
and trainers. If he meets breed standard, and is healthy, and has the correct temperament
and drives, show him, work him, and get him titled. If you feel you have what it takes to
be a "professional" breeder, educate yourself, and with enough experience in
dogs, maybe you, too, could make a positive contribution to your breed. But if your dog's
only credentials are that it is a great pet, then love it, socialize it, train it,
exercise it, give it the best in feed, comfort and veterinary care, but for it's own good
(including better health - ask your vet!), and for the sake of puppy-buyers, society, and
all canines, get it spayed or neutered.
Resist the Greed;
Don't Support Backyard Breeders,
and Certainly Don't Become One.
Copyright © 1999
Victoria Rose, PO Box 4816, Auburn, CA 95604
Proud mom of the beautiful Dobermann Calidancer V Teraden, CD, OA, AD, OAC, OGC, NJC,
RS-N, GS-N, JS-N, CGC
(As a pup she cost $900. She is trained in obedience, agility, personal protection,
wheelchair assistance and tricks
...And she is spayed.)
Document may be
reproduced in its entirety (not in sections), as long as the author is credited.

Links of
Interest:
Canismajor.com - Finding A Responsible Breeder
So You Are Looking For A Puppy
Finding A Responsible Breeder
- Myths and Facts
Dogplay.com - The Responsible Breeder
What Is A Puppymill?
No Puppymills
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