"Training Tips,
Links and Articles"
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Always
remember that your dog is a dog. He is not a human baby. He needs to be
respected for what he is and as the creature that he was meant to be. More problems
are created by people who do not respect and try to understand canine nature, but who try
to make their dogs "humanized". Treat him as your friend and your loyal
companion, but do not expect him to be what he cannot ever be.
***
"The man who
rears a dog must complete what the breeder began: the breeder can indeed lay the
foundations of a good and serviceable dog, but the trainer must see to it that he brings
to their highest possible development the physical and mental foundations already laid,
and thus his is the more grateful task."
- Capt. Max von
Stephanitz - |
Click On A
Topic Or Scroll Through The Page:
The Ten Training Commandments
N.I.L.I.F. (Nothing In Life
Is Free)
Snake Avoidance
Training And Behavior Links
Titles And Abbreviations Found In The Dog World
Suggested Books On Dog Behavior
Training
Don'ts to Confuse You
"The Ten Training Commandments"
1.) PRAISE YOUR DOG
when he performs an exercise correctly. This is what your dog is working for...your
praise! Make training worthwhile to your dog. Use motivation instead of
compulsion in most cases.
2.) CORRECT YOUR DOG
FIRMLY when he fails to perform an exercise properly. Do this ONLY if you are sure
that he understands what is expected of him.
3.) THINK LIKE A
DOG. Put yourself in your dog's shoes, and train him accordingly. Don't punish
your dog for performing an exercise incorrectly when it is likely that he does not
understand what you want.
4.) HAVE
PATIENCE. If you lose your temper, you will do more harm than good. Put your
leash away until tomorrow if you feel yourself losing patience.
5.) DO YOUR
HOMEWORK. Your instructors can show you HOW to train your dog, but the important
part is up to you.
6.) HAVE YOUR DOG'S
ATTENTION while working with him. Talk to him enthusiastically, pat your leg or use
the leash to keep him attentive. Use tidbits of food or other training aides if
necessary. Smile and make training a fun game for your dog.
7.) DON'T CALL YOUR
DOG TO YOU AND THEN PUNISH HIM! He will think that he is being punished
for coming. Make the recall a pleasant experience always. If he does not come,
go and get him and do not correct him. Keeping the dog on leash until the recall is
very reliable is very important. You do not want to set your dog up for failure.
8.) CONSISTENCY IS THE
NAME OF THE GAME. Your dog will not learn right from wrong if you allow him to do
something one day and then punish him the next day for doing the same thing...jumping on
the couch for example.
9.) BE YOUR DOG'S
MASTER. Don't ask your dog to do something...tell him. A dog will happily obey
a master he respects. Moreover, dogs equate respect with love. The
firmer you are with your dog the more he will love you. You need not be cruel, but
develop a confident attitude towards your dog. You are "alpha".
10.) PRACTICE
everyday, rain or shine. Practice in different locations. Also, as your dog
becomes more reliable, practice with many distractions for reliablity. Many think
that there dog is well trained until they go to a setting foreign to the dog or with
tempting distractions. Thus, it is very important to train in many places with many
sights and sounds and temptations.
"Nothing In Life Is For Free"
(Thank you to Lynda Oleksuk and her dog: Gypsy. Also,
special thanks to Dr. Jon Thackray for supplying me with this information written by Ms.
Oleksuk.)
******
This was
"prescribed" by a veterinary behaviorist for a dog who had multiple forms of
aggression, including fear aggression - to control her dominant tendencies. This
method is a non-confrontational way of reducing/controlling/preventing dominance or
dominance aggression in dogs. This is recommended rather than the "Alpha Wolf
Rollover" that the Monks of New Skete had previously recommended -- which they no
longer recommend because of the potential dangers when misused or used by inexperienced
owners. Because NILIF is nonconfrontational, it can be used in shy or fearful dogs
or puppies as well as "hard case" dominant-aggressive dogs.
******
NILIF:
(1) Avoid circumstances
that elicit aggression -- at least temporarily.
Later you'll be able to work on desensitization, but only after you've
gotten the dog's cooperation, not resistance.
(2) Maintain an aloof
attitude toward the dog. This is accomplished quite
easily by crating the dog (or isolating it from the family in a small area
with a babygate). This crating will be 90% or more of the time for a few weeks.
(3) Two-three times a day
for 3-5 minutes maximum practice QUICK sits and
downs for food. (If you don't know how to train this, go to a class.) You
are working for speed and attitude here -- so reward correct behavior
generously with praise and food. Don't make these training sessions a chore
-- they should be fast and fun, not a battle. When the dog is IMMEDIATELY
and CONSISTENTLY and with ANTICIPATION obeying the commands, she is ready
for the meat of the NILIF program.
(4) At first, priveleges
are still restricted, but you'll gradually be able
to add them back. Don't rush things -- if you have a bad day, just go back
to the prior level where things were successful and start over. Don't go
from confinement/isolation to full house priveleges in a day -- keep doors
shut, start with limited amount of "free time".
(5) NILIF -- Nothing in
life is free. This means the dog must PERFORM to
get anything it wants. For many dogs, using the "down" command is
recommended because it requires her to throw herself into the most
submissive posture available; the "sit" command can also be used.
"Wanna
cookie?" -- nothing in life is free, so the dog must "down" on command for
the cookie. (BTW -- when you start introducing NILIF, carry food AT ALL
TIMES -- you're still rewarding the dog for submitting - this is
NONCONFRONTATIONAL. Reward for a LONG time, then wean off food sporadically,
but still praise the behavior.) "Wanna go outside?" - dog must
"down".
"Wanna drink of water?" -- that's right. You're catching on. The dog
gets
NO freebies. She must *earn* everything -- food, play, petting, water,
going out, going for a r-i-d-e, getting T-R-E-A-T-S, coming inside.
BTW -- there are other
non-confrontational ways to establish dominance.
Ignore a dog when it tries to initiate play -- and as soon as it gives up,
you initiate the game yourself. Alpha dogs decide when the pack plays, and
when it hunts. Controlling food is another good thing -- if you're
free-feeding your dog, meal-feeding will also help establish you as alpha
since you'll be deciding when she eats. And I *do* like the idea of
teaching a puppy or a dog to roll on its back and accept petting ... but it
doesn't have to (shouldn't) be a battle.
***
One summer,
we had the unfortunate meeting with a Rattlesnake on our patio...
Our dogs alerted us to the visitor
and luckily the dogs were not bitten or my children. I thought that I might share
with you some links that I have found on snake bites and snake bite prevention training.
***
"GOOD PUP
PIE"
~*~
Take 1 puppy dog, roll and play with it
until slightly pampered, and
add the following ingredients:
1 cup patience
1 cup understanding
1 pinch correction
1 cup hard work
2 cups praise
1 1/2 cups fun
Blend well. Heat with the warmth
of the heart until the consistency
is such that dog and handler are one.
***
Titles and Abbreviations:
GSD=German Shepherd Dog
LCGSD=Long coated German Shepherd Dog
WGSD=White German Shepherd Dog
AKC=American Kennel Club
CKC=Canadian Kennel Club
CKC=Continental Kennel Club (Not to be confused with Canadian)
UKC=United Kennel Club
KC=Kennel Club (Great Britain)
GSDCA=German Shepherd Dog Club of America
USA=United Schutzhund Clubs of America
WDA=Working Dog Alliance (section of the GSDCA)
Ch=Champion
BOB=Best of Breed
BOW=Best of Winners
BOG=Best of Group
BOS=Best Oppposite Sex
BIS=Best In Show (all-breed)
GV=Grand Victor (BOB male at GSDCA national)
GVx=Grand Victrix (BOB female at GSDCA national)
SEL or Sel=Select (Special ranking for better-than-usual animals at GSDCA
national, usually with a # to indicate ranking; e.g., SEL 3)
Group II (or III or IV)=ranking in group competition at all-breed show
CD=Companion Dog (obedience title)
CDX=Companion Dog Excellent
UD=Utility Dog
OTCh=Obedience Trial Champion
UDX=Utility Dog Excellent
HIT=High in Trial
HC=High Combined (Open B and Utility B classes)
TDX=Tracking dog excellent
HT=Herding Tested
PT=Pre-trial tested
HS=Herding Started
HI=Herding Intermediate
HX=Herding Excellent
HCh=Herding Champion
AHBA=American Herding Breed Association
HTD=Herding Trial Dog (Three levels)
HRD=Herding Ranch Dog (Three levels)
HTCh=Herding Dog Champion
HCT=Herding Capability Test
JHD=Junior Herding Dog Test
HGH=Herdengebrauchshund (Herding Utility Dog, GSD herding test - recognized by the SV and
the USA.)
NA=Novice Agility
OA=Open Agility
AX=Agility Excellent
MX=Master Agility Excellent
NAJ=Novice Jumpers With Weaves
OAJ=Open Jumpers With Weaves
AXJ=Excellent Jumpers With Weaves
MXJ=Master Excellent Jumpers With Weaves
CGC=Canine Good Citizen
TDI=Therapy Dog International
***Note: CGC is an AKC certificate that any dog, including mixes, can aspire to, but
it
has nothing to do with therapy work. It serves, however, as a basis for TDI.
SV=Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde ( The German GSD Club founded by Max von Stephanitz)
WUSV=An international GSD umbrella which is composed of GSDclubs worldwide.
VA=Excellent Select (This
can only be obtained at a Sieger Show)
V=Excellent
SG=Very Good (The highest rating a dog may recive without a working title.)
VP=Very Promising Puppy
P=Promising Puppy
LP=Less Promising Puppy
BH=Schutzhund Companion Dog
Sch A=(minimum age 8 months)
SchI=Schutzhund level 1 (minimum age 18 mos.)
SchII=Schutzhund level 2 (minimum age 19 mos.)
SchIII=Schutzhund level 3 (minimum age 20 months)
WH=Schutzhund title related to protection work
FH=Advanced Tracking Dog
AD=Schutzhund Endurance Test
VB=Traffic Secure
FH=Advanced Tracking Dog
RH=Rescue Dog
WH=Watch Dog
IPO=Internationale Prufungs-Ordnung (Test similar to Schutzhund. It also has three
levels.)
DPO I and II=Police Dog
KNPV=Ring work
TD=Tracking dog
NAFA=North American Flyball Association
(The next few flyball titles will be under the NAFA. However there are varying
titles ranging from region to country.)
FD=Flyball Dog
FDX=Flyball Dog Excellent
FDCh=Flyball Dog Champion
FM=Flyball Master
FMX=Flyball Master Excellent
FMCh=Flyball Master Champion
ONYX=Onyx award (Named after first flyball dog to accumulate 20,000 pts)
FGDCh=Flyball Grand Champion
OFA=Orthepedic Fund for Animals (Hips and elbows)
CERF=Canine Eye Registry Foundation
BAER=Basic Auditory ? Response (hearing test)
vWb=von Willibrand's disease (sp?)
DM=degenerative myleopathy (sp?)
HD=hip displasia
ED=elbow displasia
***
I cannot train my
dog today...
the sky is overcast and gray,
the air's too damp. I've got a cramp,
and the dog's just eaten anyway.
Can't find the leash, got home too late,
I'm due somewhere tonight at eight.
I've got a rash, a gash, and bumps.
Too tired now to get the jumps.
Traffic's made me tense and strained.
I have to lose this weight I've gained.
How can we work when it's just rained?
The dog's too hyper. My mood is blue,
I must be coming down with the flu,
I cough, I sneeze, and wheeze and choke.
Darn! My only dumbbell broke!
Too cold outside - my feet are numb.
There's a sliver in my thumb.
The house needs cleaning - it's a sight.
I'm working overtime tonight.
I need a nap. Had company.
Lawrence Welk is on t.v.
My toe is sore - it might be gout.
I think my hair is falling out.
I ate too much. My day's been rough.
I think my dog has had enough
of this daily training grind,
we need some time off to unwind.
~Author Unknown~
Training
Pages On This Site:
German Commands
Temperament
Dog Bite Prevention
Cats and Dogs
Leash Pulling
Dominance
Kids and Dogs
Training and Behavior Links On The Web:
A Radical Regime For Recalcitrant Rovers (RRRR)
Alpha Scalphma
Avoiding or Correcting Dominance
Problems
Feeling confused
about training and dogs? Read this and relax.
DONT!................
DON'T let your dog sleep in your bed. It will cause
aggression problems down the road.
DON'T make your dog sleep in a crate. Crate is just
another word for a small cage.
DON'T let your dogs sleep outside at night.
DON'T let your dog sleep, you should be playing with
him all the time.
DON'T keep more than 2 dogs. Each dog requires
considerable time and energy, and it is impossible for
a reasonable dog owner to spend quality time with more
than 2 dogs.
DON'T keep less than 5 dogs. Dogs are pack animals,
and five dogs is the minimum number for proper socialization.
DON'T feed your dog kibble. Kibble is the invention of
evil capitalists who want your money, and kibble has
no nutritional value whatsoever. You might as well
feed your dog sawdust.
DON'T cook your dogs meat or chicken. Cooking destroys
all the nutrients.
DON'T feed your dog raw meat or chicken. Raw food
contains salmonella, e-coli, and other harmful bacteria.
DON'T let your dog drink out of a plastic bowl. It
will turn his nose pink.
DON'T poke your eye with a sharp stick. It has nothing
to do with dogs but is a good rule nonetheless.
DON'T microchip your dog. A nearby cell phone can cause
a micro chipped dog to explode, or so says the lady
running the tattoo shop.
DON'T tattoo your dog on the ear. A dog thief can cut
off the tattooed ear.
DON'T tattoo your dog on the thigh. He'll be a tripod
before you can say GINSU.
DON'T keep a collar on your dog when unattended. He
could get caught on something and choke.
DON'T leave your dog unattended without a collar. He
could run away without any identification.
DON'T transport your dog in a plastic crate. Plastic
crates don't allow sufficient airflow.
DON'T transport your dog in a wire crate. In a car
accident, a wire crate transforms into a doggie
skewer.
DON'T let your dog drive. Its against the law in many states.
DON'T enter your dog in conformation. It's b-o-r-i-n-g for the dog.
DON'T enter your dog in obedience. It's B-o-r-i-n-g
with a capital "B".
DON'T enter your dog in agility. The jumps will injure
his joints.
DON'T send your dog out with a handler. Only a
psychopath would send their beloved pet with a
complete stranger.
DON'T handle the dog yourself. You've got a great dog,
and he deserves a much better handler than you will ever be.
DON'T get a purebred dog. Too much inbreeding has
produced dogs with temperament and health problems.
DON'T get a mutt. You don't know anything about their
pedigree. In fact, if your thinking about getting a
dog, get a cat instead.
DON'T. Don't. That's right, you heard me, just don't.
DON'T leave your dog's dew claws intact. He will rip
one off jumping a log or something, which is quite painful.
DON'T remove your dog's dew claws. Dew claws are
acupuncture points that are needed for proper
functioning of the kidneys.
AND, the #1 DON'T....
DON'T trim your dog's whiskers. Dogs use their
whiskers to determine the size of their head, which is
important when they are out shopping for a new hat.
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