"Leash
Pulling" 
In order to teach a dog not
to pull on a lead, which is quite an unnatural
thing for the dog to learn, we first have to ask ourselves why the dog pulls
in the first place.
* Anticipation Puller
This dog usually pulls on the way out for a walk, but much less on the way
home. The walk usually takes the same route and on reaching the
destination, the dog will be able to free run, which is an enormous reward
in itself. So in its haste to get to the destination, it pulls on the lead
and is then rewarded for that pulling by being let off. On the way home it
pulls a lot less as its non rewarding to go home again.
* Dominant Dog
This dog usually pulls as much going out as it does coming home again. This
is because it views itself as a higher ranking animal within the pack, and
the leader always leads the way. So we firstly have to correct that
relationship and put the owners in a higher ranking position, which does not
involve the use of force, reprimand or confrontation.
* Sniffing Dog
This dog enjoys nothing more than pulling you to the next sniff...to this
dog the world is like a major big bulletin board, with messages left every
where and messages to be left in return. It will cross in front of you
quite often in its attempts to find the next scent mark and will also pull,
intermittently throughout the walk.
* Leaning Dog
This dog has learnt to lean his/her shoulders into the collar and lead
literally leaning forward, the only thing that stops the dog going head
first into the floor is the fact the lead is holding it up! Staffies can be
commonly seen doing this.
* Fearful Puller
Dogs afraid of environment, pulls only to get home.
Now we have hopefully decided the problem and what causes it, lets look at
how to stop it. Its very simple due to the fact that THE DOG WANTS, he
wants to get to the park, he wants to get to the sniff etc. So, in order to
get what he wants, he must alter his behaviour to please you and then he may
have! It will become self rewarding to walk on a loose lead.
It is vitally important that you must be consistent in your
approach to this, or any problem you are teaching.
The walk does not start when you go outside your front door, its starts the
moment you put the lead on the dog. If you have an excitable dog and he
see's you with the lead and rushes hysterically to the front door, then you
go and join him to put his lead on, you have already encouraged him to rush
ahead of you, to receive his reward more quickly, the walk. So, start in
another room, by calling your dog to you and attaching the lead.....now for
the rules............
In the hand you hold the lead in, imagine you also have a cup of coffee and
it is filled to the brim, so the slightest pressure on the lead will have
you spilling some! Now walk to the front door, but one drop, just one drop
spilt and you must return to the exact spot you started from. Do not worry
if this a while to achieve on the first occasion, if you are CONSISTENT your
dog will soon get the message, because he wants to in order to proceed.
When the dog walks, even for 1-2 steps on a loose lead remember to praise
this and even offer a tasty treat.
On reaching the door, have the dog "sit" to bring him under control, now
open the door, but if the dog gets out of the sit, dont say anything, just
shut the door again, let the dog learn his actions cause this consequence
(its the fastest way to learn, say nothing until the dog understands whats
required).
Once you can open the door wide and your dog remains sitting, step out the
door before your dog and then allow him through, then put him in the "sit"
again whilst you close the door. Now progress to the gate using the same
rules as you did to get to your front door (cup of coffee).
Once onto the pavement or sidewalk we can start the walk out, if at anytime
the dog exerts pressure on the lead, do not give any warning at all but
quickly take a few steps backwards and smartly bring your dog back with you.
Get him under control again, if necessary have him sit beside you for a few
seconds, then proceed forward, making sure you are rewarding him for doing
so properly, if he exerts pressure on lead again, repeat the above
procedure.
Its important not to say anything when you quickly take a few steps
backwards and smartly bring the dog back with you, we want the dog to make
the association.....
Feel pressure on collar = going in the opposite direction he/she wanted to
go. No pressure on collar = get to the park much quicker!
You must be pleasant to walk besides, never growling out commands and
yanking the dog about, or it will pull harder to get away from you.
Patience is a virtue and if you are consistent with this approach, your dog
will soon start understanding what you require in order for it to get what
it wants in return.
Be prepared to not complete the full walks for a few days, as doing the
rules will take sometime before you dog gets the idea. If this is the case,
mental stimulation should be given at home and in the garden, like retrieve,
stuffing a Kong etc.
If you have the sniffing dog, add one more rule, no stopping to sniff on the
way out or on the way back, but when you reach the area you free run, the
dog may sniff to his hearts content.
There are products on the market that help with pulling, like a Halti,
Gentle Leader or Comfi. These are headcollars, very
similar to what you would use on a horse, they control the head and
therefore the dog cannot pull, but this restraint must be introduced
properly, without any lead being attached for at least 4 days.
You can also get harness, these work well on larger dogs and flat snouted
ones like the Boxer for example.
