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HI. MY NAME IS RUBEN AND I'M 14 YEARS OLD.

I HAVE A PET MONITOR LIZARD.
IT'S ABOUT FIFTEEN INCHES LONG.
I FEED IT CRICKETS AND CAT FOOD, GIVE IT WATER, AND TAKE IT OUTSIDE TO LET IT CRAWL AROUND.

I THINK THESE KIND OF LIZARDS GET PRETTY BIG, lIKE AROUND SIX FEET.

I DON'T KNOW WHAT I'M GOING TO DO WITH IT WHEN IT GETS THAT BIG.
MAYBE I'LL LET IT WEAR MY CLOTHES, AND LET IT GO TO SCHOOL WITH ME!


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Monitor Lizards
Author, Copyr.1993 Melissa Kaplan. A brief species overview for the prospective first-time monitor buyer.... I'd say that to start out, you might want to stay away from the "giant" monitors: Nile V. niloticus niloticus and V. n. ornatus), reaching 7-10', very wary and aggressive, requiring lots of time and respect--most Nile owners end up trying to get rid of them by the time they reach 5 feet); the Salvador or Crocodile monitor (V. salvadorii, second in size only to the Komodo dragon [9+'], largely arboreal, eats birds and eggs [not store-bought infertile eggs which cause biotin deficiencies) and the Water or Asian Water Monitor (V. salvator, similar in appearance to the Nile, 7 feet, highly aquatic. Beware of stores mismarking the Salvador and the Water monitors! Due to the similarity in Latin name, the Water monitors are often called Salvadors, and vice versa. Aside from the fact that these monitors need an extraordinary amount of room (to move around in, to swim in and for you to be able to get in and clean up) and that they grow quickly (many owners are surprised at just how fast the Nile reaches 5 feet), they have crushingly powerful jaws and bites can result in your getting to know the emergency room staff and a plastic surgeon quite well. Many people have been turning to the above monitors to get something "different" from all the people buying Savanna monitors, just like the popularity of Savannas can be tied to all the people who wanted to be different and not get an iguana. Other questionable monitors include the Mangrove (V. indicus, 5', semi-aquatic, vertebrates and crabs, "skittish" and rarely fully tameable as all specimens are wild-caught adults, spend most of their time hiding, frequently defecates when handled, very powerful and very fast), Savannas (V. exanthematicus exanthematicus, V. e. microstictus, V. e. angolensis and V. e. albigularis [white throated], 4', dry but needs pool to soak, temps 85-90 F/day, 75-80 F/night) and Dumeril's monitors (sometimes called the gray rough-neck monitor in the trade rather than Dumeril's monitor, V. dumerilii heterophilis and V. d. dumerilli, 4', arboreal (thick strong branches) and loves to soak (need tub big enough to soak), rainforest species (humid, temps 85-95 F/day, 74 F/night, very long claws) are two of the monitors which become--with work!--quite tame. The Savannas are widely available and generally cost somewhere under $100. Dumeril's were becoming more difficult to obtain a couple of years ago (it may have changed now) and so are quite a bit more expensive. The Green Tree Monitor (V. prasinus) (2.5 feet, arboreal, spending most of their time in the high canopy in the vine, monsoon, palm, rain and and mangrove forests - they like it humid!, prehensile tail, feed mostly on arthropods, lizards, small birds, and need lots of room), despite its relatively small size, may not be a lizard for beginners, especially if one has not checked out local availability of food for them, and the amount of room they need is much more than one would think, and it must be arboreal (lots of height). The Black Rough-Necked Monitor (V. rudicolli, 4', arboreal, like to soak, social [two may be better than one]) can be tamed pretty well. Like all tree monitors, they have very long claws. Most adults do not survive in captivity - they are all wild caught and the stress and parasite load proves too much for them; younger specimens often do well, especially when treated immediately for parasites and protozoans. That being said, what you need to know is there there is very little breeding of monitors being done outside of zoos, and they aren't real active about it. (Many people buy the large monitors claiming that they are going to breed them...despite the fact that they live in small houses or apartments and the only successful breeding of Niles, for example, took place in an enclosure 18 ft x 20 ft!) Assume that any monitor you buy from a pet store or through an ad in the paper from from a herp dealer will be a wild caught one. This means to choose carefully - both the type you get and the actual lizard you select. And have a reptile vet -- an experienced reptile vet -- lined up ahead of time and, for some of them, sources of food. While many will cheerfully eat rodents in captivity, many of the smaller monitors' wild diets consist heavily on invertebrates, lizards, frogs, birds and eggs and may require such in captivity or be difficult to convert. And, speaking from experience, it is very difficult to open a monitor's mouth to stick a feeding tube down it when it doesn't want to open its mouth! Remember that tame is as tame does. I was boarding a lovely 4', 10 lb Savanna - totally tame, a real sweetie. I was holding him one day (like a baby or an iguana, head up at my left shoulder, arms cradling and supporting his body) when I felt him nosing around my neck. Just as I reached up to feel what he was doing, he grabbed me by the throat. Fortunately, he was just as confused about having done that as I was, as, had he wanted to, he could easily have ripped my neck apart. As it was, I remained as still as possible, moving with him only as he twisted and bit harder. I was also fortunate in that I was not alone when this happened; with two arms supporting the monitor, it would have been interesting trying to get to the bottle of rum or vinegar (used to get him to let go) had I been on my own. As soon as he was off, he was just as placid as before. My neck did not bleed much at all (though my chin did, being sliced by his teeth as he flung his head away from my neck when the vinegar was applied), but I had a brilliant red circle of teeth marks visible on my throat for several days, disappearing only after a week or so. There is a varanid society - the Varanix Information Exchange, 8726D S. Sepulveda Blvd #243, Los Angeles, CA 90045. They produce an excellent bi-monthly newsletter (write to find out the current subscription rate), covering natural history, design of enclosures, etc. Michael Balsai is a frequent contributor to the VaraNews, as well as writes articles for the various herp magazines; you might want to do a literature search and get copies of his and Robert Sprackland's articles and books on monitors (Sprackland also wrote Giant Lizards, published by TFH which includes descriptions and some excellent photographs of the monitor species.)

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