A. Watch Gone With the Wind. Remember Scarlet's dress she made from her mother's favorite green velvet curtains (velvet was expensive) Before the war women wore hoops with lots of petticoats and ruffles. Fitted bodices showed off corseted 18" waists and full mutton sleeves. Colors were mostly naturally dyed. Red was more pink, peach, orange, blues, browns, yellows, ecru (tea dye) Study color and calico in old quilts. Turkey red was not the red we know today. Start with yards and yards of eyelet underneath. Build up to a pastel overskirt or dress with tight bodice. Homespun Patterns and Past Patterns are accurate.

Women had bright fabric colors then. Depending on residence and social class they bought bright new aniline dyes. Natural dyes, professionally done, are also bright. Depending on age she wore lighter bright colors (young) or deeper rich colors (married or older) Solid color silk and fine wool were common, as were modest plaids and small checks for silk, fine wool or cotton dresses. Unless you're familiar with prints available then (a study in itself) use a simple check or plaid. Avoid neon. Most blues, browns, reds, subdued greens are safe choices.

Norma's intentions were the best but don't use Gone With The Wind as an example of what women wore then, especially Scarlett's clothes. It's pure Hollywood. Women dressing in that style have Scarlett Fever. Before cutting dress material make a muslin mockup of the bodice. Do careful fittings until it fits snug at waist and midriff and smooth everywhere else. Make it at least 1 - 2" short-waisted. The skirt pulls it down to where it should be, at least 1/2" or more above the natural waist line. Remember she wears a hoop and a short petticoat under it and at least one or two petticoats over her hoops to hide the bones. Work dresses still need a couple of petticoats underneath, preferably at least one corded and well starched.