The lure of rivers is both personal and possessive. The
magic for each person is different. The possession of each person by a river
also is different, for the rivers, and not the persons lured by them, do
the possessing.
Love for the rivers is more than being a "water person." A
water person is one who craves to be near any body of water whether river,
lake, ocean or creek. A water person likes best the things that can be done
in or on water such as sailing or swimming. Although all water persons are
lured by rivers, not all for whom the rivers hold magic are water persons.
Those for whom the rivers are special, whether or not
they are water persons, find that each river holds its own magic and that
some hold more magic than others.
In my own case, for example, the lure of the Thames differs
both in kind and in magnitude from the lure of the Mississippi.
The Thames bordered my life for over a year. Thus, I
was able to be possessed by it constantly. It fed the dreams of my future
and watered the knowledge of my past while giving me great pleasure in the
present. During that year, whenever it was possible to go anywhere on the
Thames, that was how I went. I also spent hours by it going nowhere, just
watching its movement and the movement of other things on it. It mesmerized
and comforted me with its continual and incessant lapping at the feet of
ongoing time. I sailed often to meet it by way of Brightlingsea. One of the
more breathtaking encounters between the Thames and me took place on Guy
Fawkes night when the inky black of the river shimmered with the bursting
reflections from enormous bonfires along its banks.
The Mississippi is warp and woof of my own little individual
history as my own river, the Ohio, empties into it. As a child, I learned
it was called the "Father of Waters." I did not see the Mississippi until
I was an adult and had long since been possessed in varying degrees by such
rivers as the Licking, Seine, Zambezi, Rhine and Los Angeles (yes, Los Angeles
River), among others. I made the acquaintance of the Mississippi in a predawn
New Orleans October mist while sitting on some pilings with a French Quarter
friend who had been born and reared in the bayou country.
I could hear the swish plop of the river's breathing
long before the rising sun enabled me to glimpse its face. Its rolling might
was clothed with serenity just as is clothed the greatness of all things
and persons who know what they are about. I was near paralyzed with wonder
as I thought of all the lives it had touched in its flowing. The hopes and
dreams of those carried to it by the Ohio alone included those carried and
emptied into the Ohio at Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, by the Allegheny and the
Monongahela Rivers.
The principal river of my nation, the Mississippi possessed
me with its weave of long ago drumbeats, not so long ago bitter slave tears
and the ensuing Civil War blood of brother drawn by brother, all overlaid
with the frosting of Gershwin, and the present low-paid efforts of New Orleans
black and white workers alike who now could be seen, with the aid of a red
sun glowing, against the disappearing night shadows.
Different from these two rivers and different from each
other are all those rivers to which I belong.
Respect was my response to the lure of the Rhine,
historically known as the waterway of Europe. German immigrants creating
my own city of Cincinnati, Ohio, continued to be bound by the pull of their
Old World umbilical river. They therefore and naturally named the canal for
it that flowed through the then-center of their New World achievement. That
Rhine Canal has long been covered over and the resultant much-used thoroughfare
today is called Central Parkway. This bit of remembered history surfaced
so strongly when I encountered the Rhine in the homeland of those immigrants
that the river itself touched only my mind and not my soul.
With this touching that would not leave me, and as I
moved along on the river itself, I felt the chill of those persons who stayed
and became part of the modern history of their nation. The feeling was that
of an iced rod of iron where my backbone should be, and a dampening mist
of failed illusion clinging to my eyebrows. So great and so determined a
people they were, both those who stayed and those who left. I wondered how
anyone could leave such natural beauty; I marveled at the tenacity of so
high a hope and belief that such a lifeline as the Rhine could be invoked
by a canal of the same name. I could not imagine the Rhine maidens of Wagner
lore even visiting, much less singing, in the now covered-over Rhine Canal
of my home town.
Since my sojourn alongside and on the Rhine, it ecologically
has died and been reborn. The result is a marine resurrection signified by
the celebrated return of salmon and several classes of algae among other
long-absent Rhine dwellers.
The Zambezi, running through what was once Southern Rhodesia,
now Zimbabwe, skirts such wonders as Victoria Falls and its attendant rain
forest. It is a river of pure emotion, equating passionate life with passionate
love in a land and continent of extremes that know no moderation.
The Zambezi does not invite you to sit and watch; it
lures you to be and do. It is a body of flowing surprises. One time as I
was calmly borne on its back in a small boat, thrilling to the multi-green
brigade that was Africa marching along on both sides of the river, there
suddenly came a big jolt. When the boat again steadied, I looked back and
saw, breaking the surface of the river, a yawning hippo, probably jarred
awake by the passing of the boat over him. In reality that yawn was a message
from the disappearing Africa that said: "Walk softly, man, for you are only
a visitor here."
The Zambezi, like its continent, possesses its visitor
with an elemental, near all-consuming embrace. You can not be as small in
mind, heart or soul as you were before you loved it. It, more than any river
I have known, has a "foreverness" that speaks of past, present and future
as one, saying for all three, "it is."
The Nile is the African river of choice for many, but,
unlike the Zambezi, its lure is passionless. There is so much 'long ago and
far away' flowing with it that even a face-lift like the Aswan Dam cannot
erase a visage that is both old and decrepit, and smooth and sardonic. It
calls forth many images connected with itself such as Isis and Osiris, Moses
and the plagues visited upon the Egyptians, the alleged parting of the Red
Sea, and the more modern and up-to-date Suez Canal fights both with Europe
and Israel, for example. It itself is lost in these images and if the images
were not burdening enough, there are the things on land that both physically
and emotionally overshadow it as do the pyramids and the Sphinx.
The Seine, which, when the day has gone, reflects the
glory of a light-emblazoned Paris, is a sensible and somewhat world-weary
river. The Seine has seen it all: Julius Caesar, Charlemagne, the squabbling
popes, the Black Death, the Crusades, the Inquisition, the last of the big
time spenders a la Louis XIV, Madame DeFarge and Robespierre, and the Corsican
adventurer Napoleon, to list but a few of what we call cataclysmic happenings
and personalities which, unlike the Seine itself, have been swallowed up
in time. It has survived a collapsed Maginot Line and the vital-to-France
but nonetheless often egotistic puffery of General Charles DeGalle. It no
doubt also will survive the squatter's rights of the fast-food joint,
MacDonald's, on the Champs Elysees.
To sit on the left bank of the Seine and dangle your
feet in the water is to ease your heart and allay any fears of the time that
is and the time that is to come. All things pass, as the Seine passes. The
Seine knows this, and to know the Seine is to know this. The greatest lure
of the Seine is its calm, continual passing.
The Sambre and the Meuse Rivers come together at Namur
in Belgium where up high and overlooking their juncture is a citadel. Reached
by a very winding road, this fortress of 2000 years of uninterrupted history
(besieged twenty times in twenty centuries) is the best place for viewing
the confluence of the Meuse and Sambre Rivers and their valleys.
These rivers themselves have played their own parts in
history. The Meuse historically perhaps is the better known to Americans,
particularly those who are scholars and aficionados of both world wars. These
rivers seem always to be spoken of together, so much so that it almost appears
in conversation as if they were one. As example, today on an internet site
I picked up the following: "... A cruise on the Sambre and Meuse ..." If
I didn't know better from being lured by both rivers some time back, I would
think it to be a name like that of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad which
was indeed one railroad and not two separate entities.
The lure for me of each river was and is an individual
one, the singular pull of a separate chapter in the record of history. I
ambled constantly along the Meuse where many in houseboats had made their
homes, taking from the river its constancy as foundation for their own lives.
Walking along the Sambre (and you walked there with purpose;
ambling did not seem suitable) showed sole involvement with a commercial
present complete with warehouses and government buildings. These two rivers
may be inseparable in the minds of many and in the teaching of history, yet
they are separate and distinct in their lure. Together they present back-to-back
pages in the Book of Man in that part of the planet, noting his solid Then,
and eager, forward-looking Now.
The most foreign of rivers that have lured me is not
in a foreign country but in my own. I describe the Los Angeles River as "foreign"
because most of the time it is waterless and some say it no longer should
be called a river. Yet I have walked its dry bed and faintly felt its lure
of now-suppressed tossed-around excitement smelling of gold and oil, tinsel
and truth.
Several times, too, I have seen a few inches of water
in its bed, (and sadly today in this winter of 1998, it indeed is full of
water, compliments of El Nino). It was, and always will be, a river to me,
dry bed or not, and it sings its special lure as all rivers do, if one will
but listen. One night, defending the river as river, I closed my argument
by noting that Los Angeles, California, is like no other place on this earth;
therefore, why should its river be like any other river on this earth?
Shared with California by its neighboring state Nevada
is the Truckee River. This river may pose as the best example of my conviction
that the lure of a river is different for each person; in fact, the lure
of a river is received as a very singular message by each who hears and responds
to it.
I, for one, find the Truckee to be amusing and I cannot
really take it seriously. Every time I've gone near it I think of and look
for only one thing: the Truckee duckees (duckies). The concern with the ducks
on the Truckee was major with an early Western acquaintance of mine and my
relationship with the Truckee remains colored by that memory. Others I know
hear music in their heads when someone says "the Truckee" because their
relationship with the river is attendance at the noontime concerts by the
Reno Municipal Band.
There are various sites in Washoe County (Nevada) along
the Truckee where one can sit and daydream or eat lunch or just watch the
Truckee. Most persons with whom I've shared these things invariably see the
Truckee as a reminder of wonderful river days in their childhood home towns.
Perhaps that is the greatest lure of the Truckee: the calling up of memories
with which it itself has no real connection.
There are many in Nevada who do not know from where the
Truckee comes (it is formed by and is the only outlet for Lake Tahoe, a body
of water also shared by California and Nevada; it begins in Tahoe City,
California). There are many in California who do not know where the Truckee
goes (it flows east through the Truckee Meadows and drains into Pyramid Lake,
a desert lake located 32 miles northwest of Reno, Nevada). Even 'though water
is king in the West, there are many in both of these states who are lured
by things other than rivers. One could say that rivers as such are 'foreign'
to these individuals.
Not at all foreign to me in any sense, of course, is
the Missouri River which empties into the great Mississippi at St. Louis,
Missouri. Years before I ever saw the Missouri, I sung constantly about it
during performances in South Africa with a song called "Shenandoah." The
Missouri is a repository of the innocent, generous, rollicking, striving
events that signatured America when America was young. Some years ago in
my print journalism days, on the Kansas side of the river, traveling on a
summer night, the car headlights picked out a barefoot, blue-jeaned boy
meandering on the dusty road underneath enormous, all-embracing,
silently-gesturing heavily-green-ladened trees.
Through the open car windows, the smell of one's midwestern
childhood, one's own long ago, was in the air, and by it all flowed the wide
Missouri. Stopping the car, getting out and walking down the bank, submitting
to the lure of that river, the heart was grateful, although it wept, for
both an individual and a national past that river-rolled star-spangled and
headlight-spotted and then disappeared before one's eyes.
Least foreign to me of all is my own river, the Ohio.
It is the one with whom my relationship continually grows and changes. Always
I have belonged to it. The bond, however, was not always as strong as it
has become. It is only now that I have been lured by the rivers of the world
that I, older now too, can take the comfort and beauty offered to me by my
own, and my own, often to my surprise, truly is beautiful.
I have spent much time on my Ohio River and many hours
by it. I have seen it with its rose-red sun-spun morning blanket and I have
seen it moon-splashed and star-mirrored. I have seen it sable black in winter
with a white ice-chipped collar. I have seen it mud-ruffled in spring with
black barge stripes. I have watched the hills that guard it and have heard
in my heart the running feet of my ancestors, the Miami Indians, along its
banks. I have sailed under its bridges and been raised by its locks and dams.
I have known the pleasure it brings and I have long pondered, attempting
to guess, the secrets it keeps. Its lure grows greater for me as I grow older
because it is my own.
©1998 Marilyn Guswiler
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