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Balls Head

A very picturesque area that is probably the closest crag to the city. Catch a train to Waverton station then follow the signs to Balls Head (about a 15 minute walk).

The bouldering is pretty much all on the western side of balls head on a 4m high wall. There are some toprope anchors and a good long traverse. There is also a huge detached block down near the water on the southern side of the headland. The block is covered in bolts, with about 5 climbs with many variants.

NOTE: Balls Head has been closed to climbing by the local council, because of severe erosion in the area (source: Rock No 26, Autumn 1996). Keep an eye out for more information as to when / if it will be reopened.

The guide for the area is the newly published Sun, Surf and Sandstone online guide book. This crag is described here.

The climbs:

Recommended Sport Photo Clocks 15m 22
A really fun roof climb in one of the most picturesque settings I've ever seen. 5 ring bolts to a fixed carabiner lower off. The first three bolts can be pre-clipped from the ledge under the roof. Great photo opportunities with the harbour bridge, opera house and city skyline across the harbour.

Map of Balls Head

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