Home > Crags > Sydney > Bangor West
Bangor West
Bangor West is in the leafy southern suburbs of Sydney, situated above the Woronora River. The river has carved quite a gorge through the soft sandstone to produce a myriad of crags in the area. The Woronora crag can be seen from the Bangor West crag, for example, and many other cliffs are visible across the river (the First Avenue and Cranberry Crags, I believe).
Public transport isn't the best, with Sutherland being the nearest railway station. From here it's best to cycle to Bangor, but its quite a ride down to and across the river, and then up a bugger of a hill on the other side. Beg, borrow or steal a car if you can!
The crag isn't particularly high, averaging about 6m for the most part, with generally slabby or vertical climbing. There are some nice little overhung sections (generally at ground level), that are a fun start to a climb. Bouldering seems very popular here, with some horrible traverses, and a nice large block to clamber about on. There are also quite a number of unlisted climbs (in particular on the face to the left of Fixed Steps), most of which look pretty hard.
Bangor West is a great summer crag, facing south and well shaded by trees. This also makes it an icebox in winter: the wind whistles up the river and the sun doesn't touch the rock at all, making it very cold to the touch. Take warm clothes if you're climbing here in the cooler months!
The guide for the area is the newly published Sun, Surf and Sandstone online guide book. This crag is described here.
The climbs:
The Whorl 16m 16 (originally graded 17)
Marked. A fun climb with some interesting bits at the bottom. The bridge of rock is a bit suspect, so be careful (only stand on the ends of it). Watch out for the puddle near the top (you can't see it from below)! 4 BRs (you'll need a short extender for the top one).
Dorothy May 15m 16
Marked. Just to the left of The Whorl, with a really fun overhanging start. 2 BRs then use the top 2 BRs on the Whorl (take a short extender for the top one).
Andrew's Bulge 11m 14 (originally graded 16)
Marked. One of my mates soloed it while I was flaking my rope, which killed the excitement for me! 3 BRs on the face, and two on top for the belay.
Mars Apple 10m 20 (originally graded 16)
"Probably harder since a hold broke off at the start." Too right! The start is desperate, with very poor feet and a single, slopey pocket for the hands (although it's a bit easier if you use the arete to the right). Delicate stance at the first bolt, then a hardish move up to a break (cams/wires) and then easily up to the top (another good cam break, if required).
Zulu Trainer 10m 14
A nice hands-free move to the first bolt, then a worthless ascent past a second bolt to 2 BBs. Might be a nice beginner's lead, but other than that, don't bother.
Fixed Steps 10m 19
Up the blunt arete delicately. 3 BRs on the face and 2 on top for belaying.
Tilba Tilba 8m 8 (originally graded 13)
On the huge fallen block facing the cliff. Mantel then head up the juggy, low angled slab to the top. A one move wonder if ever there was one.
?? (anybody know its name?) 10m 22
A top rope only boulder problem marked in chalk with a large P. A hard, balancy start past a tiny, sharp one finger crimp leads to some good crimps, then a hard move over the bulge. From there its pretty straight forward to the top.
My Girl 10m 23 (originally graded 22)
A hard start to the first ring bolt, then desperate moves to the second. More easily from there to the top (tree belay).
Python 10m 17
Marked. A well protected climb past two fixed hangers and a horizontal break (cams) to two BBs on top.
Grandma's Wheelchair 9m 16
Start on left side of cave, then up past a single BR and several horizontal breaks (for cams) to two BBs. The start is a bit awkward, although the bolt is perfectly placed to protect the move. A nice variation is to start in the cave (which probably makes the start a bit easier!).
Skulduggery 9m 16
A pretty uninteresting climb with an absolutely disgusting grovelly move to get over the roof. 1 rusty BR, with small cams to back it up and for higher up. 2 poorly placed BBs on top.
End of the Decade 11m 20/21
Marked. A good climb with a reachy first move. The hand traverse can be sandy, but is pretty straight forward. Crux move from the arete up and onto the face, then up a dead easy slab (take a small cam).
Grotto Crack 9m 17
The crack to the L of End of the Decade. Quite technical, with two really stupidly placed BRs.
Zip 8m 14
Quite tough for a 14! Clipping the first bolt is quite tricky and strenuous, but once your feet have gained the face, it's a breeze. 2 BRs on the face and 2 on top for the belay.
Unzip 10m 17
Starts under the roof underneath Zip. A bit reachy to get around the roof and onto the face, then as for Zip.
Home > Crags > Sydney > Bangor West
Get your own Free Home Page