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Barrenjoey
Barrenjoey is the big headland at the end of Palm Beach (the northern-most beach in Sydney). Palm Beach is basically a sand spit joining Barrenjoey to the mainland, so there is both surf and estuary swimming to be had after a hard days climbing.
Public transport (L90 or 190 bus from Wynyard) takes you as close as you can go by road, but its a hell of a long way (approx 1hr 40min), so make sure you go before you go if you intend to catch the bus.
Barrenjoey contains a number of distinct crags, all of them offering quite a large number of climbs. Barrenjoey offers more climbing than any other crag in Sydney, and the quality of the rock combined with its proximity to a surf beach also makes it one of the best Sydney crags I've visited. Most of the climbs are slabby, although there are also a couple of steeper classics. There are very few fully bolted climbs here, so make sure you bring some trad gear. There are also two excellent boulders on the surf beach about 1km south of Barrenjoey itself (see 
). They are well worth a visit, partly because of the bouldering, partly because of the beach life, and mainly because of the surf 15m away.
Note: access to the Barrenjoey crags is currently under threat. See the climbing news page for details.
The guide for the area is the newly published Sun, Surf and Sandstone online guide book. This crag is described here, here, here, here, here and here.
Southwest Barrenjoey
This is the small cliff face visible on the southern side of the western-most point of Barrenjoey. Although not much rock is visible, there is quite a bit there, hidden behind the trees (which also makes for shady climbing). Head along the beach on the estuary side of Palm Beach, and turn right onto a single track just past the red shed. This passes by a white house and then up the hill to the crag.
The climbs:
Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket 20m 16
A nice slab climb, with a couple of big ledges allowing hands-free rests. Three bolts, but take a 0.75 camalot (#1 or #1.5 friend) for a break between the second and third bolts (or run it out for a bit of excitement!). Double ring bolts for the belay, allowing an easy rap descent back to the foot of the cliff.
Jezebel 10m 9
Great for beginners (can even be climbed in sneakers without too much difficulty). Could be considered a sport climb, but a #3 camalot will go in the break about half way up. Two ring bolts for the belay.
Starboard Barnicle 20m 14
Not a bad little climb. Pleasant for the belayer since its shaded by a largish tree. Could be considered a sport climb, but the top is a bit run out. There's some nice cam placements in the breaks on the right, if the top seems too far away. The belay isn't great, with one bolt back about 5m, and some trees even further back.
Crack of Dawn 20m 15
A great little trad lead, with some nice jamming and stemming to the recess at about 5m, then slightly run out past a couple of foot ledges and a BR to the top. Good wire/cam placements up the twin cracks and just above the recess, then a larger cam or two (#1 and #2 camalots) between there and the bolt. Two rusty bolts and a rap chain on top for the belay (same belay as Liquid Insanity).
Liquid Insanity 20m 18
A really nice slab climb, with the crux up to the first bolt. Four rusty bolts in all, with the second hanging out quite badly from the rock (be careful!). Two #1 friends can also be useful, to protect the mantle at half height (above the manky second bolt) and also the mantle just below the top. Two rusty bolts and a rap chain on top for the belay. Take care with the rap chain, since the ring bolt bends slightly under body weight, indicating that it probably isn't bonded to the glue properly.
I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For 22m 19
Another nice slab climb, with a bulging overhang at the top for that added touch of spice. The guide says to stay out of the crack near the top, but I reckon its a sandbag if you don't use it! 5 rusty bolts (take brackets), and also a #1 camalot for a pocket below the first bolt, a #0.5 camalot for a break below the block on top, and a cam or two for the belay (to back up the single rusty belay bolt).
Tropico 20m 15
Quite a demanding climb, with a lot of hunting up the top for some juggy holds. Take some slings for slinging the tree and a dodgy hole in the rock higher up (not a recommended placement!). I belayed from the ledge, as the final climb up the triangular block really didn't tempt me much. There's a rap chain to the right (as you face the cliff) above Marsupial Smearer/Liquid Insanity that provides the quickest descent.
Wild Ride 18m 16
A pleasant, bouldery start (BR) leads to fairly undistinguished climbing up an easy wall (cams and 1 BR). Belay from the large ledge (1 rusty BR + cams), or continue up the trianguler block (looked worthless, so we didn't bother). Only worth about 14 if you traverse right to the first BR from the start of Hang On.
Cosmic Ecology 12m 14
A surprisingly nice little crack and face climb. Clip the bolt to start, then a hard move or two (crux) to a great hands free rest (wires/hexes behind the triangular block or hexes/cams higher up in the crack). Step left and head up the crack to a hands free ledge. Easily up the slab above to tree/cam belay (take some slings for cam breaks a couple of meters back).
Central Pillar of Morder 20m 19
An excellent steep slab climb, with some very thin climbing. Definitely take a #2.5 or #3 friend, as the three bolts are rather widely spaced. To top-belay, use the tree well back from the edge as an anchor point, or use the two ring bolts on the boulder to bottom belay.
Orgasmic 25m 11
Take plenty of trad gear as there's no bolts on this climb. Sling a chockstone down low then cam breaks on the left to protect the chimney. The top of the chimney needs big cams (a #3 camalot barely fit), and from there its up the slab to 2 ring bolts on top of Central Pillar of Morder. Big holds and good protection.
Sand Syringe 20m 18
Good pro is quite an exaggeration, particularly as the BR with the bent bracket no longer exists. A mate did a hideous runout lead with his last placement a 7mm cord tied around the plate formation about half way up, so be careful! A full selection of cams would have helped (he only took two). The climb itself is an enjoyable, solid 18, and certainly easier than "Not Your Average Cab Sav", next door.
Not Your Average Cab Sav 20m 19
A hard 19, with some bulgy sections down low, and some airy, fragile mantles on the slabby headwall. Good protection the entire way, with some rather fragile stances to clip the bolts. The first break is good for smaller nuts, while the second takes a #2 camalot nicely.
Pledge a Legend 15m 14
An excellent, solid 14 up the obvious crack left of Not Your Average Cab Sav. Take a variety of cams, and a full set of wires, since the crack varies quite a bit in size. Make sure to take some slings, as the first couple of placements are quite deep, and will drag badly if you don't sling them. 1 BR on the belay ledge plus a tree further back for the belay.
Mescalito 12m 19
A good route with some extremely delicate moves. Take some small to medium cams plus two brackets for the two bolts. Belay off the rusty iron spike backed up by a tree well back.
Long Line of Leanings 15m 19
A fine climb with some strenuous bouldery moves above the cave, and some really thin slabby moves higher up. The contrived start is good fun, although there's an easier way up to the right if you can't do it. I wouldn't recommend leading this climb, since the fixed hanger is rusted and bent (from numerous falls, I'd guess). There's a small ledge at about 10m that allows you to depump after all the lip-pulling shenanigans. The top belay is from two trees 10m back from the edge and a single bolt in the middle of the rock platform.
Ikon 10m 17
One rusty bolt that's hanging out a bit and one nice, new shiny ring bolt near the top. Thin moves down low to gain a nice ledge to clip the first bolt (there's a break lower down on the left that'll take a #3 camalot if the bolt looks too far away). Varying thin and juggy moves to another nice ledge to clip the ring bolt, then thin moves over the rounded top of the face. Belay off a tree about 4m back from the edge.
Lighthouse Track Rocks
The two obvious buttresses overhanging the lighthouse track, about 75m up the hill. While you'll be lucky to see other climbers here, the numerous tourists wandering up to the lighthouse are bound to take an interest! The cliff is basically in shade until about 1:00pm in summer, so it's a good early morning option. Climbs are described as you meet them, walking up the hill.
The climbs:
Possum Taunter 17m 15
Marked PT, but incorrectly called "And Then The Fun Starts" in the current guidebook. A nice, surprisingly sustained line up the obvious twin cracks on the first buttress. Generally good protection and moves the entire way up, with a nice roof at half height, and a slopey headwall to keep up the interest. Tree belay.
Hackitt 15m 13
Marked. The obvious crack in the middle of the second buttress. Trench warfare (with some fantastic jams!) leads to pleasant face climbing. From the big cave up, the rock quality really degenerates, but the protection is still okay, and the moves through the small rooves at the top are quite fun. Natural belay off a tree well back and a large block. Take care with the block, since it rocks (ie. Nuts and cams under the block are probably not safe!).
North Palm Beach
This is the upper tier of cliffs visible below the lighthouse. The easiest access is to walk down from the lighthouse and then along the top of the cliffs until you reach a steep gully with a large fallen block a little way downhill. Generally not as high as South West Barrenjoey, and certainly much less developed.
The climbs:
We used the following two boulder problems for descent.
Windward Sausage 9
Marked.
Roomba Revisited 6
Marked.
A Clean Break 8m 16
A nice climb, despite being very short. Move left once you've clipped the BB, as the wall around the bolt is pretty thin. A block on top is perfect for slinging for the belay.
Space Vampires 15m 18
A great climb with some really fun moves over the overhang on solid, juggy holds. The bolts are all rather rusty, and it looks like the first one may be about to fall out, so be careful. The two BBs on top are the most rusted of the lot, and there's very little in the way of natural protection (a small friend may go in somewhere).
The Holy Hour 15m 18
Quite tough, despite the juggy looking fin that projects out of the bottom half of the climb (it's next to useless). A mixture of cams and bolts protect this climb, with a natural belay.
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