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Berowra
Berowra (on the Northern edge of Sydney) is one of the most beautiful places to climb in Sydney. The crag is located on the edge of a large area of bush (Kuringai-Chase National Park), and you can almost see the Hawkesbury in the bottom of one of the distant valleys. The cliff line faces North West and is capped with black ironstone in spots, so summer climbing isn't recommended, as it really bakes.
Of course, being so remote, it is also somewhat difficult to get to by public transport. Your best bet is to catch a train to Berowra station, and then cycle from there. The roads are all sealed, and are pretty flat, and cycling is better than walking the 3.5kms to the crag (particularly on your way home).
The climbs themselves are great, although generally quite short. Grades range from 9 to 26, with most climbs in the 18 to 25 range. There aren't many climbs below grade 17 here, and none of them are bolted, so if you're just learning to lead, bring plenty of natural pro.
The guide for the area is the newly published Sun, Surf and Sandstone online guide book. This crag is described here.
The climbs:
Cenotaph Corner 8m 4
Useful as a short cut to the bottom of the crag.
Ladder of Gloom 12m 19
Quite an amazing rock formation. The traverse at the start is quite thin, and its good to have a spotter, as falling during the traverse means a 2m ground fall. The ladder itself is really easy, although it is quite bulging and pumpy. 3 ring bolts to double ring bolt lower off.
3-D Wimp-out 15m 21
The arete on the right hand side of the big cave (the Cave of Soap). I didn't get up this one, so I really don't know much about it, apart from the first move. This is a feet free chin up, then a one arm lock off, then another chin up to get your feet on dismally thin holds.
Gash 12m 17
Very sandy! The climbing is better on the right hand arete, but the protection is all at the back of the chimney. Take some RPs.
Yesterday's Heroes 15m 17
Not listed in the guidebook. Located between Gash and Palm Sunday, and is marked. There are 4 BRs on the face, but nothing in the way of anchors at the top, apart from a dead banksia (which recently snapped off at the base!). A fun climb with a hard move down low then jugs the rest of the way up.
Palm Sunday 15m 21
An excellent climb on thin, crimpy holds. Head left up to the flake then back to the right towards the first bolt. Poor protection on top.
DC (Anyone know its name?) 8m 19/20? or 22?
Marked, but not listed in the guidebook. Quite a hard climb with some rather sharp and painful holds. Head straight up past the first ring bolt, then right towards the second bolt on Eccles (the next climb to the right). One you've gained the jugs to the right, head back to the left to clip the second ring.
This climb can be done straight up the wall at about grade 22. Be aware that there is potential for a ground fall just before clipping the second bolt. Thanks to Adrian Philbey for this beta.
Bill Collins 10m 24
I fell up this climb, but enjoyed it nonetheless. Features excruciatingly small holds that remove the skin on the tips of your fingers with startling efficiency. Head straight up then traverse left and up to jugs. Perfect for top-roping, as a small gum tree hangs out directly over the climb (might be an idea to use a second tree as a backup anchor as well).
Gidget Verdon 10m 22
"Desperate start" is an understatement! Although we think we had the sequence worked out, an hours work couldn't get us onto the bloody thing without aid! The first decent stance is once you've gained the little orange flake thing up and to the left of the first bolt. From here the climb is a bit more realistically graded, and very enjoyable. 3 BRs on the face, but not much in the way of an anchor on top. We top-roped with a bottom belay, and ended up shredding a couple of slings on the sharp edge of the block on top, so a top-belay is probably recommended.
Fox/Sox/Pox 12m 18
Another good climb (close to being my favourite at Berowra), and very popular. Two rungs and two ring bolts on the face, and you can either head a little to the left and up an easy arete to the top, or head straight up the face and use a cam between the last bolt and the top. Highly recommended. Lots of people lower off the top ring bolt.
Mental Fatigue 13m 18
A good climb: Great holds behind the flake, but very thin feet. 4 BRs (take brackets) to double ring bolt lower off. Note that the left hand ring bolt has snapped on top and is starting to bend out of shape, so top belaying is recommended. Also be warned that the flake moves a bit if you really pull out hard on it, which can be a little disconcerting!
Broken Candy 13m 20
Another very enjoyable climb, that doesn't appear to get much traffic (watch out for spiders!). Clip the first bolt on Mental Fatigue, then head up and right for the second bolt. Anchor off a reasonably sized tree about 3m back from the edge (good for top-roping). I've witnessed a big grounder while clipping the second bolt on this climb, so be careful!
24 12m 21
Nice moves down low on gorgeous rock past a BR to a juggy break (2nd BR). A ridiculously reachy crux above the 2nd BR leads to another break (#1 camalot at the far right hand end), then easy climbing on suss rock to the top (1 BR and maybe a large cam if necessary). Tree belay (on what is probably the largest tree at Berowra!).
Kenneth's Climb 10m 14
A good climb to learn to lead on natural pro. The first 2/3 of the climb is about a grade 8, although the top is a solid 14. A variety of gear is handy, as the cracks range from off-width at the bottom to finger width at the top.
Wall Thing 12m 18 (originally graded 19)
Another nice climb. Numerous jugs up the steep bottom section, with a one move crux right at the top. 4 BRs on the face (take brackets) to tree belay.
Boundary Rider 11m 19 (originally graded 16)
The line 1.5m right of Wall Thing. More sustained than Wall Thing, with quite a few crimpy holds and some nice pockets too. 3 carrots to natural belay.
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