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The Atridae
The next group of buttresses left (south) of the organ pipes. Agamemnon is the big chimney second from the right as you face the crag. Plimsoll Line is just right of the obvious orange corner in the centre.
Cassandra (1st pitch only) 40m 18
A great, steep slab climb that is about as close to a sport route as Arapiles gets at this grade. Up the blocks (cam placements) to the main face, then sustained, enjoyable climbing up the steep slab past about 7 bolts (some of which look extremely dodgy!). Head right at the traverse line, past another cam placement (slightly run out), then easily up the short corner to the belay ledge and a double ring bolt lower off. Although the guidebook suggests traversing in from the left to get to the base of the climb, the alternative (soloing up the mossy slabs 10m to the right) is much more preferable.
Plimsoll Line 13m 22
Sustained and poorly protected climbing up the vegetated, dirty crack / seam right of the Orestes corner. Still sound worthwhile? Well it isn't!
Surface to Air 30m 17
A lovely little jaunt, with all of the hard moves right at the start (take care with protection). Once you're up 5m or so, the climbing eases right off and it's a delightful romp, somewhat reminiscent of Muldoon, to the top.
Muldoon 45m 13
An enjoyable first pitch followed by a fantastic, exposed, cruisy second pitch.
Pitch 1 25m 13
Nice moves up the corner to the cave, then left and up around the arete (crux) to a stance. Blast up the lovely wall to the belay.
Pitch 2 20m 13
Ridiculously steep for the grade - thank god it's jugs the entire way up!
Agamemnon 40m 11
The second pitch is one of the best pitches I have ever led, and certainly has to be one of the best pitches of this grade in existence. Gradings of individual pitches have been added by me, and are to be used as a rough guide only. Helmets are a must on this climb, since the first belay ledge has quite a bit of loose rock on it that can easily be knocked down the chimney.
Pitch 1 18m 8
A fairly unexciting pitch, but don't let it put you off the second pitch! Good protection (wires/hexes) to blocky belay with enough room for about 3 people.
Pitch 2 22m 11
A fantastic pitch: the last 8m offers mind blowing exposure (see the photo for a belayers-eye view of the leader). Chimney easily up the crack (good wires and cams) to a small ledge. Follow the juggy flake line (wires/hexes/cams) up and right until it stops (extend your placements here, since the next gear will be on the opposite wall of the chimney). Step across to the opposing wall and bridge up the chimney (cams/wires, but be careful to extend your placements so they don't pull out). Once you get to the smooth wall, there is nothing to do but go for it (making sure you look down every now and then to sample the exposure)! There are three bollards back from the edge for the belay.
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