Watchtower Faces

There are two ways of descending from the top of the cliff. Firstly you can do a two pitch rap (requiring double 50m ropes) down the Right Watchtower Face (about 20m left (facing out) of the top of the Watchtower), or you can head right (facing the cliff) and walk down the gully at the right hand end of the Right Watchtower Face (which is usually faster).

The Watchtower

Pitch 1 40m 10
A great little pitch, which takes bomber wires the entire way up. The belay ledge is quite sloping, but has a nice block to sit on while belaying the leader on the second pitch.

Pitch 2 35m 8
We got a little lost and headed straight up from the belay ledge, then stepped left at the roof. After a few more moves up we corrected the mistake and headed back right along the ledge above to belay below the overhanging crack (rope drag was a bit of a problem).

Pitch 3 48m 10
Although it sounds hard, the overhanging crack features some of those amazing Arapiles jugs, so the traverse right is harder than the overhang! Because we shortened the second pitch, this pitch was about 55m in length. If you do it this way, be very careful of rope drag (double ropes would be a good idea for this pitch regardless!). Bring plenty of cams and hexes too, since wire placements are harder to find and you'll need a lot of gear for such a long pitch. Belay on a large ledge in front of some blocks, with an absolutely stunning view.

Right Watchtower Face

Pitch 1 40m 12
Head up the slabs and blocks of the first two pitches of Watchtower Crack to belay in the slot below the chimney.

Pitch 2 26m 18
Superb! Follow the chimney to the obvious traverse line (taking care to extend your gear well), then launch out right across the exposed, exhilarating but deceptively easy wall. Follow the corner up (crux) for about 12m or so to belay where the corner heads right again. Take at least two #3 camalots for the belay (or belay 5m lower down on smaller gear).

Pitch 3 40m 17/18
Continue delicately up the slab below the corner to a final boulder problem at the lip (or move out right to the flake and score yourself a 17). Lovely easy rambling leads to the top. Tree belay.

Pitch 1 30m 16
A great introductory pitch for the route, with adequate gear and not too sustained.

Pitch 2 40m 16
A breathtaking pitch. The beautifully sustained climbing on the fabulous, water-polished rock makes it feel like you might slip off at any point, yet it isn't that hard! Although it looks runout the pro is there when you need it. A good variety of small to mid gear is essential.

Pitch 3 43m 8
A pleasant but unexceptional pitch, but after the first two, who cares?

Pitch 1 25m 14
A somewhat concerning pitch because of the gear, but the moves aren't too bad.

Pitch 2 25m 14
Another runout pitch, although this one has the advantage of a rusty BR about 8m off the belay. The belay itself is a bit tricky to organise.

Pitch 3 44m 14
Probably the pitch of the route. Pleasant climbing up and over the bulge (with a number of alternatives), then easy rambling up the long, low angled headwall above.