A Day of 3 Star Cracks at Piddo

Saturday I went for a BBQ at Bobbin Head for Nisha's birthday. I reckon there's a bit of potential on the drive in, although being in Kuringai Chase NP there's some rather glaring access issues.

Sunday saw Steve and I up at Mt Piddington with a big day planned. The weather was absolutely stunning - clear blue skies, T shirt and shorts in the middle of the day, cool in the shade etc. etc. - just magic!

What was even better was only having to share the crag with 2 other groups - what more could you ask for?? :-)

Steve warmed up on Tombstone Wall (** 15), which I enjoyed more this time than I have previously. Perhaps it's a nicer route to second than to lead!! :-)

I then jumped on Flake Crack (*** 17) which was great - lovely, relaxed climbing that I thought was pretty easy for the grade. A number 3.5 camalot would have been nice for the flake though!

Steve then jumped on Cathaginian (*** 15) and after a few anxious moments down low sent it in fine style. I'd forgotten how painful the foot jams are through the twin cracks section - no wonder Tim hated it in his Stingers!! :-)

Having dispatched FC with such ease I thought I'd better get on something a bit more challenging so jumped on Psychopath (*** 17) next. All I can say is "what a fantastic pitch" - it's probably the best single pitch of crack climbing I've ever done!!!! The initial section is just amazing - 8m of perfectly sustained, superb hand jamming!!!! Anyway, it's an absolutely f*****g amazing route and if you're at all interested in crack climbing you should go and do it right away!!

I reckon it's a bit of a sandbag at 17 - definitely at least a grade harder than FC, and probably pretty comparable to Eternity in terms of difficulty (fewer face holds than E and much steeper, but a better sized crack). I'd give it 18.

Interestingly enough Warwick Williams told me this morning that it was originally graded 18/19 but had been regraded some time ago, apparently by people who'd "done it thousands of times".

With the sun beginning to sink towards the horizon, Steve and I headed around for our now customary exit via Hocus Pocus. I got to the first belay just as the sun went down, so Steve had fun seconding the first pitch and leading the second in the gathering gloom. By the time he'd reached the top it was almost pitch black and he could only find one bolt! Needless to say, seconding the second pitch in the pitch black with a pack on was quite exciting!!

We then followed what we thought was the exit track, but lost it after it climbed up above the upper cliff line and ended up bush bashing for about 20 minutes until we'd regained the road. At least the Southern Cross was easily visible so we could keep a straight bearing!!

Anyway that was the day for us - quite possibly my last visit to Piddo before I head to the US, and a fitting farewell to this classic crag it was too!