A Lazy 80 Point Day

Saturday morning saw a hung over Will and I heading up to the mountains for a bit of "romping upon the vertical". Although it was drizzling for most of the drive up, we'd decided to go to Narrowneck for the day and a little inclement weather wasn't going to change our minds. A good thing, too, since by the time we got to the cliff it had dried up, and by midday even the clouds had buggered off, making it a little on the warm side!!

We walked on down to the top of the "100' Slab", passing hordes of abseilers on the way (who were thankfully content to stay on the small upper cliff line above the northern end of the cliff).

We quickly rapped in and for a warm up Will led the second pitch of "100' Slab" (* 30m 8), a really pleasant low angled corner crack with loads of passive placements and some nice moves over a small bulge at half height.

We then wandered on around towards "Cave Climb" (** 65m 13) (which Will hadn't done before), passing a couple of mad rap grid bolters in the process who were putting up a new 26 just right of "Wrush and Rupture(?)". The delightful sound of their power drill accompanied us for the remainder of the day...

Anyway, after checking out "Fuddy Cracks" (* ~30m 17), which looks like a heinous thrutch slot, we decided to jump on "On Both Sides of the Glass" (*** 65m 18) instead.

I'd previously attempted the climb with Damien some years ago, but at the time we were both well out of our league, and although we got up the thing, it wasn't exactly my most memorable ascent. In fact I got so sunburnt and dehydrated that day that I felt parched just looking at the thing again!!

Will seemed happy to let me lead the first pitch (30m grade 18 arete) so off I went. All I can say is "what a fantastic pitch!". Definitely worth 3 stars, even by itself. The climbing is engaging and sustained, the rock generally excellent, and the protection, while not blatantly obvious in all cases, is all there. What's even more bizarre is that it's almost all natural gear (just 2 bolts) - very unusual for a Blueys arete!

Will did the business on second, remarking at one point that he was glad he hadn't led it!

After a quick breather he launched into the ridiculously exposed second pitch (10m grade 18 traverse). This pitch is pumpy out of all proportion to its length - the move off the belay ledge is pretty strenuous, and it only gets worse from there. To cut a long story short both Will and I sat on the manky FH + carabiner in the middle of the traverse, and I even passed all the gear along to him to save some weight!

I think the trick with this pitch is to clip the FH as early as you can, and then just crank straight on past it, since the moves past it are the hardest on the pitch and it quickly gets easier a move or two further on.

Great positions on this pitch - the wall underneath the traverse line is very overhung, so you're hanging on a heelhook and a jug 30m above the void. I'll definitely do it with 3 people and a camera next time!

Anyway, since Will had only led the short pitch we rejigged the belay and he set off on the final pitch (30m grade 13). Although the rock at the start isn't very inspiring, it quickly improves, and the exposure is phenomenal (you traverse back left over the first belay ledge and then head up a steep slab / arete to the top). Spaced natural gear, tenuous moves and a fantastic position make this another superb pitch, worthy of 3 stars by itself.

All in all a superb route - sustained, engaging and just bloody excellent - definitely worth 3 stars.

We then headed around to the Herbaceous Gully, rapped back down and launched up our intended second climb, Cave Climb. Will hadn't done this one either, and I've led all of it both times I'd done it, so I let Will lead me up the thing. The start is really nice, and he quickly dispatched it, using a hidden hold that I hadn't seen before but that made the crux a bit easier.

The rest of the route is really enjoyable doddling up the crack to the cave, then on up to the top. There's some lovely easy laybacking and face climbing higher up, and I'd thoroughly recommend it for beginners.

Because of our late start and because Will had a play to go to in the evening we called it a day. A shame, really, since I'd wanted to do Minute Man (* 12m 15) and 100' Slab Variant (* 30m 14) just to crack the 100 point barrier.

I guess there's always next weekend...