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Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls is located about 5km north of Mt Victoria, on the southern side of the Grose Valley. Access is a snap; drive to the end of the Victoria Falls Rd (which starts just before the Imperial Hotel at Mt Victoria), and then walk down towards the lookout. About 25m before the lookout, a vague path leads off to the right and eventually heads down a steep gully.
Although there are some excellent routes here, the cliffline is rather broken, and there don't tend to be as many big, clean walls as at some of the other Blueys crags. Because most of the climbing is on the middle tier of a three tiered cliff, however, there are some pretty exposed one pitch routes.
The crag is split into left and right sides (facing the cliff), with most of the more exposed routes on the right hand side. The cliff faces basically east, so is better in the morning in winter and the afternoon in summer.
The guide for the area is the "Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains (2nd Edition)" guide book.
Right Side
Initial View 25m 13
The obvious chossy looking yellow crack just past the sharp arete. Not a bad little route, with surprisingly good rock (at least inside the crack!). Good jamming up the crack leads to a little roof, then easier but less protected climbing up the headwall. Take care with one or two huge loose blocks (the higher one rocks). Belay off two small banksias and a large tree well back.
Left Side
All Models Are Orphans 30m 20 (originally graded 18)
Starts at the obvious curving flake punching through the overhangs about 10m past the huge tilted block and offwidth at ground level. A surprisingly sustained and extremely poorly protected climb up the damp and dirty wall left of the arete. Although the crux (pulling right past the first BR) is well protected, the top 18m or so is sustained at about grade 17 or 18, and only has two bolts low down for protection. For the top 5m or so the leader is probably on a ground fall, and the rock is covered in moss and lichen. Take great care! Tree belay.
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