latest update (Jan 2003)
second to latest update (Jan 1999)
Here are some photo tips gathered from talking to photographers while on the road, in camera stores and from trial and error.

1. the lens

Question: photographer A has a $1000 camera and a $200 lens; photographer B a $200 camera and a $1000 lens; who gets better pictures assuming comparable talent?

Photographer B!

If you have an infinite amount of cash then go ahead and buy both an expensive lens and camera body. Otherwise, put out the cash for good lenses and look for a more affordable camera body.

Lenses fall into four catagories (I'm excluding real high end stuff and just concentrating on mass-market consumer items):
1. top notch name brand stuff -- Nikon, Canon lenses that run you about a $1000
2. main stream name brand stuff -- Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Minolta and Olympus
3. bargain stuff -- Tamaron, Sigma, Tokina, Vivitar
4. junk -- various little known brands

Go for catagory 1 and 2 stuff. If you have always used catagory 3 and 4 stuff, you don't know what you are missing. Basically, that is how I discovered the truth of the old adage, "You get what you pay for." I have a catagory 4 lens (gasp)! But in the last year, I tried some good stuff (by borrowing) and it made me realize the errors of my ways. That lens is now a paper weight on my desk!
There are some high priced catagory 3 lenses that are pretty good

A 28-80mm zoom is a good all around lens to have. Some other good lenses to get are 19mm or 24mm for even wider-angle shots. 135mm to bring you in closer. 300mm which is probably as close as you can get and still be able to hand-hold shoot under some circumstances.

2. The camera body

The main makers are Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Minolta and Olympus. They all make fine cameras. The guy behind the counter will probably steer you to Nikon or Canon since pros like them and they are a picky lot. But for the average consumer it won't matter too much. The main thing is how does it feel in your hands and how comfortable you are with the control buttons and dials.

Camera prices go up with features and indestructability. Example, the Nikon F-5 runs for around $2995!!

For gadeteers, the newest and hottest thing on the market is the Canon EOS3 for around $1399.

I don't know if the show is still on the air but at 6:30AM (Pacific), ESPN carries the Canon Photo Safari which highlights some wonderful tourist destinations mixed with photo tips and of course introductions to some of Canon's photo equipment. the show is no longer on the air.

3. Film

If you shoot slides outdoors, it is hard to beat FUJI Velvia (50 ASA). It can be a bit too saturated for people pictures. I was stunned at how in most cases the Velvia outperformed Kodachrome.

For print film, Kodak generally can't be beat. The A4theroad team has shot some Agfa 50 and 400 and the color seems a little biased to blue. We have shot Fuji as well and the colors on those just don't grab you like the Kodak stuff.
The new Reala film from Fuji is very good and is going to give Kodak a run for the money.

If you know the subject isn't going to move and you plan to make enlargments, go for the Royal Gold 25 ASA film. Super duper sharp stuff. Unfortunately, it is no longer in production Otherwise, go with Gold 100 or 400. The Royal Gold 100 and 400 are excellent. And as mentioned before consider the Reala 100 from Fuji. The 400 ASA film holds up pretty well in enlargments. I thought my 8x12 from 400 was not much grainier than 100. Skip the 200 ASA print film since you can get more flexibility with the 400 without too much loss in sharpness.

I've been experimenting with Kodak Max 800 and Royal 1000. I think the Royal 1000 gives you a better picture than Max 800 and you get almost one more stop of exposure to boot. H has shot some Fuji 800 and I saw those pics. Pretty good color balance and the grain was not as poor as the Max 800. So we recommend Fuji 800 and Royal 1000 when you feel the need for speed.

4. Tripod

It is a hassle to drag it along but it is essential! If you got 25 ASA film loaded and the sun has just barely rose or is setting, you will need the steadiness a tripod affords. You ever wonder how those waterfall shots have that feathery look? A long exposure made possible by a tripod.

Also, if you got your 300mm lens aimed at a bird in a tree you will need the tripod! The rule of thumb is that you can hand hold the camera down to an exposure of 1/focal length. In other words don't try to shoot with a 300mm lens with an exposure longer than 1/300 seconds.

5. Photo finishing

After it is all done, you take your film to get developed and if they are negatives to get prints. Do NOT take it to Costco or some other one hour photo place. Think about this: Who is running those machines? Usually some well meaning fresh faced teenager who has just enough training to run the machine. What kind quality control do you think there will be when hundreds of rolls get done so fast so often?

Take a look at those prints, do the colors look right? Check those negatives, are there scratches?

Seek out your friendly camera store and get their input on good photofinishing in the area. Often times the stores will be outlets for those operations. And for really important stuff, get recommendations for custom labs where they are fanatical about quality.

Have fun and show me your pictures on your web site!

Links to other sites on the Web

Travels with Samantha Home
B&H Photo-Video-Imaging-Pro Audio Homepage
Cameras Video Cameras Audio - Cameraworld

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