Annie and Emmie's Carrot Patch

@Health

@Nail Clipping

@How do I start the search for a vet?

@What screening questions should I ask?

@What spaying & neutering questions should I ask?

@What shouldn't I do?

Health

Bunnies have a major shedding period two or three times a year. Bunnies, like other animals, clean themselves by licking themselves. In the process of cleaning themselves, they ingest fur. Bunnies aren't physically capable of vomiting, and so when a hairball forms, the only way they can get it out, is to let it pass through their systems. This is why hay is very important. It keeps everything in their digestive systems moving. Keeping them hydrated by providing plenty of water, is also important. A rabbit won't eat unless it has enough to drink, so if it doesn't have enough water, it won't eat any hay. There are two more things that you can give them to help their digestive systems: papaya tablets and Petromalt.

Tip: Papaya Tablets (or as our family calls them- Papaya Pills) are good treats. When given on a regular basis (1/day) they help stop hairballs and other blockages from forming, and they help them pass through when they do form. You can usually find them at Wal-Mart.

Petromalt is also another great digestive supplement that works even better than papaya tablets. When given on a weekly basis, it helps stop hairballs and other blockages from forming, and when they do form, it helps them to pass through. My bunnies love the flavor, and will eat it straight from the tube.

When you notice that bunny doesn't want to eat, and she usually has a voracious appetite, you know something is wrong. It is usually a hairball. Offer her some Petromalt. If she refuses it, spread some on her front paws. She will eventually lick it off. (Note: if bunny has a pal, keep her from licking it off of bunny's paw)

Usually this will clear the system with in 15-45 minutes. Bunnies have a VERY high metabolism, and can starve to death with in two to three days. If bunny will not eat her dinner, and still hasn't touched it the next morning, even after being given Petromalt, contact your vet, as their may be a problem. If you don't have a vet, see my VET section below. It includes vets in your area, what to look for when looking for a vet, and many other helpful tips.

Click on the picture to go to a place where you can purchase some from your bunnies.

Nail Clipping

Nail clipping is very important to bunnies. Just like us, their nails grow during their
entire life. Cat nail clippers usually work fine for this procedure. If your bunny has
light colored nails, clipping them will be a lot easier than if your bun has dark
nails. However, if you buns does have dark nails, don't worry about it- you can still
clip them! (I have one dark-nailed bun and one light-nailed bun!)

You will need:

@a pair of nail clippers (preferably cat ones)

@a friend or family member

@a towel and long sleeves/pants (this is kind of optional. If he/she is squirmy as
most buns are, this is mandatory)

@styptic powder

The towel is used to keep the bunny from squirming and injuring you or itself. Have your friend or family member wrap the bunny in the towel, and hold it in his or her arms/lap.

In a bunny's nails, there is a part called the quick. The quick contains blood, and is painful if cut. It is the "fleshy" looking part of the bun's nails closest to the actual toes. If your bun's nails are a light color, than the quick is easily seen. Simply avoid cutting too close to it. If your bun's nails are dark colored, a flashlight held behind the nails may be helpful.

All you have to do is insert the nail and clip-making sure you don't cut too close to the quick. If you do cut the quick, apply the styptic powder (which you can usually find at a pet-store or animal shelter store), and the bleeding should stop.

The rest of this page is from the HRS. Thank you.

How do I start the search for a vet?

Start the search before you have an emergency!

@Check the House Rabbit Society's recommended veterinarian list to see what recommended vets are near you. For a list of vets who attended a recent HRS vet conference, click here.

@Next check the yellow pages for veterinarians who advertise as "exotic" (includes, rabbits & rodents). Then randomly select 5 veterinarians who do NOT advertise as avian or exotic.

(A comprehensive online listing of veterinarians in the USA is now available. This is another alternative to the yellow pages)

@Phone these veterinarians and ask who they refer their clients to if they have a serious rabbit case. If all 5 veterinarians give you the name of the same veterinarian, ok. If not, then randomly select another 5 veterinarians and continue the process until you have a clear "winner".

@Phone several (start with 3) veterinarians in cities within 50 miles of you and ask the same question: who do they refer their clients to if they have a serious rabbit case.At this point you should have either a clear "winner" or several veterinarians to choose from.

@Next, phone the vet. Let the person who answers, presumably the person at the front desk, know that you are concerned with finding the very best veterinarian to care for your rabbit and that you would like to speak directly to the doctor at his/her convenience. Leave your home phone number and work phone number (if you work- whereas a student doesn't work) and specific times that the veterinarian can get hold of you (and be there).
Or you can ask when a convenient time would be for you to call back. (perhaps when the vet is between appointments.

What screening questions should I ask?

For questions specific to spaying and neutering, see the next question, titled "What Spaying and Neutering
Questions Should I Ask? "

@Ask how many rabbits are seen at the clinic each week.

@Ask how many rabbits are spayed or neutered each week.

@Ask if they know which antibiotics are dangerous for rabbits (amoxicillin and most of the "...cillin" drugs like penicillin are deadly.).

@Ask about preventing hairballs. "What's the best way to prevent hairballs?" They should reply along the lines of, "Provide your rabbit with hay every day, preferably 24 hours a day. Provide daily exercise and brush frequently, especially when shedding."

@Ask if food has to be removed the night before surgery. The answer should be "no". Rabbits should never be fasted, as they can't vomit, and have extremely high metabolisms, and can starve to death within a day or two.

@By asking what rabbit-related conferences and medicine talks they've attended, you can learn how active he/she is in the rabbit world, and how updated they are on the latest medicine. We want our veterinarians to be up on the latest in rabbit treatment.

If you don't get the "right" answers to the above questions, continue your search.

What spaying & neutering questions should I ask?

@About how many rabbit clients does the veterinarian see in a year?

@How many spays/neuters OF RABBITS has the veterinarian has done in the past year?

@What was the success rate?

90% success is way too low. Every doctor, whether for animals or humans will occasionally lose a patient; usually because of an undiagnosed problem. veterinarians across the country who spay and neuter rabbits for the House Rabbit Society have lost on average less than 1/2 of 1%.

@If any were lost, what was the cause?

@Does the veterinarian remove both uterus and ovaries? (they should)

@Does the veterinarian do "open" or "closed" neuters? (closed is preferable-let your veterinarian explain the difference)

@Is entry to the testicles made through the scrotum or the abdomen? (Entry via the abdomen unnecessarily increases the trauma for male rabbits)

@Does the veterinarian require withholding of food and water prior to surgery in rabbits? (It is better not to do this--rabbits can't vomit, so there is no risk of that during surgery, and rabbits should never be allowed to get empty digestive tracts)

@What anesthetics are used (some veterinarians are quite successful with anesthetics other than isofluorene, but the bunny is "hung over" after surgery, which increases the probability that s/he will be slow to start eating again, which can lead to serious problems if not dealt with.

@Review the procedure (op and immediate post-op) with your vet.

@Ask how problems will be detected.

@How often will they (the veterinarian and the techs) look in on your kid and what will they look for?

@What will they do pre-op to find any potential problems?

@How will they support your bun in the hours after surgery: O2, warmth, quiet
(barking dogs and yowling cats in the next cage are probably not helpful), and stimulation?

@What are they going to do to make it come out right?! Ask questions! That will get your veterinarian's attention. Let them know you're concerned and that you'll be paying attention.

What shouldn’t I do?

Do not make your choice based on how close the veterinarian is to your home (unless that veterinarian is the clear "winner"). Paying money to a veterinarian who does not know anything (or very little) about rabbits is just throwing your money away and can cost the life of your companion.

Don't assume that just because a veterinarian works with breeders or local 4-H clubs, that they are experienced with house rabbits or the medical needs of older rabbits. Unfortunately, such veterinarians often tend to approach rabbits as stock animals rather than as beloved companions. They may never have done a spay or neuter and "treatment" of any difficulty may amount to euthanasia (when dealing with stock or show animals, the financial bottom line may be the primary consideration).