¨Why should rabbits be spayed or neutered?

¨When should they be spayed or neutered?

¨What kinds of question should I ask the vet?

¨What pre & post operative care should I give?

Introduction

Spaying and neutering are VERY important to a rabbit's life. As I mentioned in my introduction,
rabbits can live for 9-12 years if properly taken care of. However, there are always exceptions.
I've heard of a few, not many, that have lived to be 15. Disease, as with any other living thing,
can always shorten the lifespan of rabbits. This is one of the reasons spaying and neutering are
important to your rabbit's health.

Why should rabbits be spayed or neutered?

@Altered rabbits are healthier and live longer than unaltered rabbits. The risk of reproductive cancers (ovarian, uterine, mammarian) for an unspayed female rabbit stands at is virtually eliminated by spaying your female rabbit. Your neutered male rabbit will live longer as well, given that he won't be tempted to fight with other animals (rabbits, cats, etc.) due to his sexual aggression.

@Altered rabbits make better companions. They are calmer, more loving, and dependable once the undeniable urge to mate has been removed. In addition, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing, digging) and aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling) behavior after surgery.

@Avoidance of obnoxious behavior. Unneutered male rabbits spray, and both males and females are much easier to litter train, and much more reliably trained, after they have been altered.

@Altered rabbits won't contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits. Over 15 million adorable dogs,
cats, and rabbits are killed in animal shelters in this country every year. In addition, unwanted rabbits are often abandoned in fields, parks, or on city streets to fend for themselves, where they suffer from starvation, sickness, and are easy prey to other animals or traffic accidents. Those rabbits who are sold to pet stores don't necessarily fare any better, as pet stores sell pets to anyone with the money to buy, and don't check on what kind of home they will go to. Many of these rabbits will be sold as snake food, or as a pet for a small child who will soon "outgrow" the rabbit.

@Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy the company of other rabbits. But unless your rabbit is altered, he or she cannot have a friend, either of the opposite sex, or the same sex, due to sexual and aggressive behaviors triggered by hormones.

@Spaying and neutering for rabbits has become a safe procedure when performed by experienced rabbit
veterinarians. The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your rabbit.

Rabbits that are 4-6 months old are in their "teenage" years, and their hormones are
racing. This means they will start to mark their territory- which in males can mean
spraying, and humping females (humans included-both sexes!!). If placed with a female
they will mate. Plus, 72% of unspayed females will contract Uterine Cancer, and die.
This is one of the diseases I was talking about earlier, that can greatly shorten your
companion's life. By having your bun spayed or neutered, you will make him much
happier (emotionally and sexually), and much healthier.

When should the be spayed or neutered?

Females

They become sexually mature around the age of 4 months, and can
usually be spayed then, depending on size. However, most vets like to
wait until they're 6 months, because surgery is riskier on a younger bun.

Males

They can be neutered as soon as the testicles descend, usually around
3-1/2 months of age. However, most vets prefer to wait until they are 5
months old.

Generally, when a rabbit reaches 6 years old, fixing is not an option
anymore because surgery would be too risky.

How much money does it cost?

Spaying and neutering is definitely worth the somewhat hefty price some
vets and spay/neuter clinics demand.

Most veterinarians charge somewhere between $55 and $120. Most
spay and neuter clinics charge between $25 and $50 dollars.

If you buy a bun from the HRS, it will always be spayed or neutered, and
the price for that will be part of the price you pay for the bunny.

Some-most shelters will spay/neuter a bunny before you buy it.

What kind of questions should I ask the vet?

@About how many rabbit clients does the veterinarian see in a year?

@How many spays/neuters OF RABBITS has the veterinarian has done in the past year?

-what was the success rate?

90% success is way too low. Every doctor, whether for animals
or humans will occasionally lose a patient; usually because of an
undiagnosed problem. veterinarians across the country who spay
and neuter rabbits for the House Rabbit Society have lost on
average less than 1/2 of 1%.

@If any were lost, what was the cause?

@Does the veterinarian remove both uterus and ovaries? (they
should)

@Does the veterinarian do "open" or "closed" neuters? (closed is
preferable--let your veterinarian explain the difference)

@Is entry to the testicles made through the scrotum or the
abdomen? (Entry via the abdomen unnecessarily increases the
trauma for male rabbits)

@Does the veterinarian require withholding of food and water prior
to surgery in rabbits? (It is better not to do this--rabbits can't
vomit, so there is no risk of that during surgery, and rabbits
should never be allowed to get empty digestive tracts)

@What anesthetics are used (some veterinarians are quite successful
with anesthetics other than isofluorene,(the anesthesia of choice
for buns) (halothane is also used) but the bunny is "hung over"
after surgery, which increases the probability that s/he will be
slow to start eating again, which can lead to serious problems if
not dealt with.)

@Review the procedure (op and immediate post-op) with your vet.
Ask how problems will be detected: how often will they (the
veterinarian and the techs) look in on your kid and what will they
look for?. What will they do pre-op to find any potential
problems? How will they support your bun in the hours after
surgery: O2, warmth, quiet (barking dogs and yowling cats in the
next cage are probably not helpful), and stimulation? What are
they going to do to make it come out right?! Ask questions! That
will get your veterinarian's attention. Let them know you're
concerned and that you'll be paying attention.

What pre & post operative care should I give?

Give the rabbit acidophilus for a couple of days prior to surgery, just to
be certain that the digestive system is functioning in fine form. Don't
change the diet it any way during this time.

Disinfect the cage and confine the bunny to her cage for a few days to
prevent over doing: 2 days for males, 5-6 days for females. Provide a
comfortable bedding like synthetic sheepskin rug, so their is no inclination
of sleeping in the litterbox and possibly contaminate the operation area.

After the surgery, continue giving acidophilus until the appetite has
returned to normal.

Inspect the incision morning and evening. After a neuter, the scrotum may
swell with fluids. Warm compresses will help, but it is nothing to be overly
concerned about. With any sign of infection, take the rabbit to the
veterinarian immediately.

Keep a newly spayed female away from all male rabbits (neutered or
not), as serious internal damage can be caused if a male mounts her.
Keep mixed sexes away from each other for about two weeks (in case of
stored sperm-unless the female is already spayed).

After surgery, keep the environment quiet so the rabbit doesn't startle or
panic, don't do anything to encourage acrobatics, but let the rabbit move
around at her own pace-- she knows what hurts and what doesn't.

Some veterinarians keep rabbits overnight. If your veterinarian lets you
bring your bunny home the first night, note the following:

Most males come home after being neutered looking for
"supper"-- be sure they have pellets, water, and some good hay
(good, fresh alfalfa is a good way to tempt them to nibble a bit)

Most females want to be left alone, are not interested in eating at
all, and will sit quietly in a back corner of the cage (or wherever
in the house they feel they will be bothered the least)

The following morning, or at latest by the next evening, it is important for
the rabbit to be nibbling something. It doesn't matter what or how much,
as long as she is taking in something, so the digestive tract won't shut
down. If she isn't, tempt her with everything possible, and as a last resort,
make a mush of rabbit pellets (1 part pellets, 2 parts water, run through
blender thoroughly, add acidophilus, and feed in pea-sized bits with a
feeding syringe through the side of the mouth)

Occasionally a female will pull out her stitches. Get her stitched up again,
and then belly-band her by wrapping a dish towel around her whole
middle and binding that with an elastic bandage wrapped snuggly over it.
If she can breath normally, it isn't too tight.

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