The next
part of our trip took us from Malang in East Java to Banyuwangi
on the far eastern coast of Java. The first bit, south to Kepanjen
and the east to Dampit was not very nice as it was crowded by traffic.
The next 60 km to Pasirian
along the slopes of Mount Semeru were really great, with little
traffic and a nice, wide road. However, we were racing so hard
along this stretch that the brake drums got so hot that they grinded
against the outer rim of their casing. When we stopped for a short
drink, checking out the damage, the brakes got stuck for good,
effectively blocking the wheel.
We were very lucky
that there was a ' benkel' (small workshop) just across the road
and they took off the wheel and chipped the grinded metal off.
20 minutes later we were back on track, taking it more easy.
Riding
Tips: Bromo and Semeru
Another
great area to visit from Malang or Surabaya/Probolingo are
the Bromo and Semeru volcanos. A nice and interesting place
to stay is the PPLH Environmental Training and Information
Center in Travas.
We
skipped the Bromo crater during this trip, as we had been
there already a couple of times.
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After Pasirian the
road to Tempeh and on to Rambipuji was a bit featureless and a
rather average drive. The 35 km from Rambipuji via Jember, where
we had lunch, to Sempolan were also full of traffic and not very
nice.
The next 40 km to Genteng
were also nice, leading through the gap between Mt Raung and Mt
Betiri. After Genteng the last 35 km to Banyuwangi were average
and we found a nice looking hotel in Banyuwangi. The hitel looked
nice but it turned out to be the probably worst hotel we stayed
in during the entire trip, but we couldn't be bothered finding
another one. We ate at one of the many seafood warungs, and we
had great fish, crab and prawns.
Riding
Tips:
If
you plan to drive up to Gunung Ijen, you should take
the main road leading up on the western side of the slope.
The road from Banjuwangi is fine for the first 10km, but
the final 3-4km can only be done on a trial bike.
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Undoubtfully
one of the most beautiful volcanic crater in Indonesia 
At the summit of
Mt. Ijenis a kawah (crater) filled with a haunting turqouiseblue
lake, its surface streaked in wind-blow patterns of yellow sulphurous
vapor. Though dormant
now, in 1817 Ijen erupted disastrously, wiping out 3 villages. It last erupted in 1952.
From
a distance you will see a beautiful, eerie, pale yellow-green
smoke. As you near
the crater's edge you must be able to stand the evil-smelling
sulphur.
Nearly vertical walls of white
rock surround the lake, except where the wall has collapsed in
the northwest. A
dam has been built to regulate the flow of water into the Banyupahit
river; the lakes has been known to boil over when volcanic activity
increases.
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