Places of Interest
The town has several fine old buildings dating from the days of the banana boom. A group headed by architect Earl Levy has sought to preserve and refurbish some of these, notably the GEORGIAN COURT HOUSE and the MUSGRAVE MARKET. The imposing brick Anglican CHRIST CHURCH,
dates from 1840 and contains a brass lectern donated by Captain Baker of the Boston Fruit Co.
The VICTORIAN RAILWAY STATION built in 1896 was recently leased by Mr. Vincent Holgate, owner of Fern Hill Club and awaits restoration.
Nearby BOUNDBROOK wharf was the United Fruit Company's main pie. All of the bananas grown on the island are still trucked to Port Antonio and exported from here but there are plans to ship from Montego Bay and Bowden in the near future.
The waterfront has two MARINAS. One belonging to the Jamaica Defence Force is adjacent to Boundbrook. The West St. marina is operated by the HENRY MORGAN ANGLERS ASSOCIATION and is the site of the annual PORT ANTONIO MARLIN TOURNAMENT, held in October. Thanks to the influence of PEPA(see below) undersize Marlins are returned to the water, and an angler can gain points by returning larger fish.
FORT GEORGE, on the headland which divides East and West harbours dates from the eighteenth century with emplacements for 22 cannons, a few of which still remain. The rest of the fort is now occupied byTITCHFIELD HIGH SCHOOL established in 1875 from a trust set up by Lord Titchfield.
Cows browse and urchins play among the ruins of the once famous Titchfield
Hotel, burnt down many years ago.
Facing West Harbour is KEN WRIGHT CRUISE SHIP PIERnamed after a local politician, a founding member and stalwart of the PNP. Visiting cruise ships dock at the Boundbrook wharf pending its refurbishment.
THE CARIBBEAN QUEEN leaves from Ken Wright pier on its weekly tour to Santiago, Cuba. The crossing takes about 6 hours while you relax in reclining chairs or party the night away. The day is spent touring the old city and the next night at the Santiago de Cuba hotel, plus a visit to the Tropicana nightclub. All inclusive fare. The historic city of Santiago, Cuba has been twinned with Port Antontio.
FOLLY: The headland beyond East harbour was part of Folly Estate. The lighthouse here was established in 1888. The crumbling pseudo-Grecian palace on the high ground is known appropriately as Folly. It was built early in this century by a retired mining engineer named Mitchell who hailed from New York and married a member of the Tiffany family. The Mitchells lived in grand style with a large retinue of servants and many pets including peacocks and monkeys, the latter being allowed to roam free on the island offshore now known as Monkey Island. They owned the first automobile in Portland and even had a lighting plant. Mitchell died here and was buried in an elegant mausoleum at Folly, but his remains were later removed to New York by his widow. The mansion was left untenanted and subsequently began to crumble due to the fact that salt water had been used to mix the mortar. The columns have stood the test of time because they were molded in New York from Jamaican limestone and then glazed. Folly belongs to the government and is sadly neglected, frequently defaced with obscene graffiti and is the haunt of idlers and bag snatchers. Don't go here alone. The site is occasionally rented for music shows and was the location for a music video starring Eddie Murphy and Grammy winner Shabba Ranks, Jamaica's reigning Dancehall Deejay.
On a hill beyond Folly, is an overseer's house. It was built and occupied by Mitchell while the mansion was under construction and has outlasted the costly mansion. It is a modest, wooden home, sand-dashed and painted in the style of the early 1900s. It is now owned by Mr Ronald Williams, a hospitable authority on the parish of Portland. Mrs Williams is a clairvoyant and fortune teller.
BLUE HOLE is one of the island's most scenic attractions was recently the source of a running battle between government agencies and the persons owning the foreshore. The source of the controversy was the fact that Blue Hole is a famous beauty spot and rightly considered part of the island's natural heritage, so the public's right of access had to be guaranteed. Mrs Valerie Marzouca at last received permission to fence her property and charge an entrance fee to the landscaped garden that borders the lagoon which is encircled by forested hills and fed by freshwater springs. It is approximately 180 feet deep. One of the mineral springs feeding it is claimed to have rejuvenating powers similar to those of mannish water (a local soup said to increase male virility). The lagoonside garden has picnic areas, On the left of the access road is a new, upmarket restaurant.
Attractions and Tours
NONSUCH CAVES are high in the hills overlooking Port Antonio and located on a 180 acre coconut plantation. (Turn R at Fairy Hill and travel approximately 5 rough but scenic miles to Athenry). At theentrance to the cave, you summon the guide by gong and then descend into the underworld which is lighted and traversed with concrete walkways and stairs. Fossils here demonstrate that the island was formed beneath the sea and thrust upwards by volcanic activity. The cave's nine chambers are adorned with stalactites and stalagmites (columns formed by the slow dripping of water rich in dissolved limestone). Above ground, the informal gardens are well worth a visit and there is a fine view.
RAFTING ON THE RIO GRANDE:
Was initiated as a tourist attraction by Errol Flynn. Farmers in the Rio Grande valley used to carry their produce downstream on bamboo rafts. Flynn and his friends found this mode of transport entertaining and relaxing. It is said in the valley that Errol used to make the trip twice a day - and always with a different lady and landmarks along the river are still sometimes referred to as Flynn's Rest, Flynn's Hideaway etc. Rafting is now organized and operated by Rio Grande Attractions Ltd. and there are some 200 registered Raft Captains on the roster.
There are two embarkation points close together at GRANTS LEVEL BERRIDALE. Licensed and insured drivers are available to take your car to the terminus downriver. From either, you glide miles downstream past spellbinding scenery - unfortunately sometimes marred by the blue plastic flotsam from upstream banana plantations. The ride takes from one to three hours (depending on the flow of the river and the energy level of your Captain). You can purchase drinks en route and stop to swim or picnic. The rafts are made from the bamboo growing on the riverside. Each accommodates two adults and a child under 10. The raftsmen, most of whom are farmers in their spare time are all experienced rivermen. Apprentices make, repair, and tow the rafts back upstream.
REACH FALLS: on the
DRIVERS RIVER about 25 miles east of town are very popular and highly recommended. See Tour 18
SOMERSET FALLS and rainforest are also well worth a visit. See Tour 19
PEPA, The Portland Environmental Protection Association has united farmers, teachers, students and some businessmen in efforts to protect what is left of Portland's pristine environment and to rehabilitate its natural resources. PEPA's livewire creator and chairman is Marguerite Gauron, a journalist and resident of San San. Their latest project - creation of a Conservation Corridor from the mountain tops to
the offshore reefs has been initiated with the help of The Nature Conservancy and a MacArthur Grant. The terrestrial park runs from the John Crow Mountains through the hills of Nonsuch and down to the wetlands of Turtle Crawle. The marine park stretches from Boston Bay to the west of the harbour.
PEPA assists community groups like those of
NONSUCH and the RIO GRANDE valley to develop environment-friendly eco-tourism. For example, at Nonsuch, community leaders Dean Hendriks and Laidlaw Bishop can organize hiking tours including expeditions to a recently discovered waterfall that is still unnamed. Current projects promoted and co-ordinated by PEPA include TEAM courses (Teachers Environmental Awareness Movement) at the Passley Gardens Teachers College, Mangrove reforestation in Turtle Crawle, and oyster culture in the East Harbour.
SHOPPING: Port Antonio is one resort that is mercifully short on craft vendors. Souvenirs, postcards, craft, film etc. are obtainable in some hotels or in the town.
JOLLY JOSEPH, at Clear Spring between the castle and the palace, an art and craft bus, advertises items for the Rich and Famous and the Infamous including T-Shirts with prints by local Intuitive artists. Beside it there is a small hut displaying works of local artist R Stewart and a few others. Further east at Zion Hill Cafe, Andy J's Gallery Children's Art Foundation/ Painted T Shirts and unique items is worth investigating. A short distance further on, a roadside stall offers custom made wicker craft.