SURFACE GAUGE AND PLATE


>For precise measurements and leveling a true flat surface is required. If you can afford them. the best are steel or stone, surface ground flat. A sheet of float glass can be used for the accuracy needed. The PanaVise 10" X 10" is excellent for modelling purposes. Flangeways should be cut to allow wheels to sit on the surface to avoid measuring flange depths and deducting them from hights measured. If possible they should be on a diagonal to yield about 13" of "track". Since my milling machine reach can not quite make the diagonal, mine is still slotless. (The lowest price quoted by a shop to cut them was $125.00.)

To overcome this failing, digital calipers are used to measure flange depth and then zeroed. Then all measurements include the depths.


Note: Adjust brightness and contrast for optimum viewing.

SURFACE GAUGES


Surface gauges have a scriber, with a curved and a straight end, swivel mounted on a raiseable arm. There is a fine adjustment screw which can raise or lower the arm vet precisely . The Starrett has the fine adjust screw on base left with arm in base and a locking screw in the base side, while on the Brown & Sharp it is at the visible arm end. It also has two leveling screws on the left. Usually expensive, these were found at a flea market and yard sale at less than $10.00 each.




Note: Adjust brightness and contrast for optimum viewing.

CHECKING A SMOKEBOX center HIGHT AFTER FRAME AND DRIVER MODIFICATIONS


The gauge can be positioned anywhere on the plate to transfer hights with the scriber tips to level almost anything. This is very useful in checking and eliminating side and longitudinal tilt in rolling stock. No more drunken locos. For less precise measurements, they may be set with a vertical scale rule zeroed at the end. Calipers are more accurate.

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