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CRAG Route BETA

West Rock State Park
3 Judges' Cave There is bouldering at West Rock in New Haven. More Info.

Gunks, NY
Peter's Kill Area Peter's Kill Area's -Official- Closing date for the winter is December 15.

East Peak Ampitheater
Dol Guldur - 5.11c The top section (the original finish) above the arch has become extremely loose in some places. Apparently, in an attempt to clean some loose stuff, someone made it worse. Some of the holds that shorter folks would use traversing back right are gone.

Cathole Pass
Pegasus - 5.9 WARNING:LOOSE ROCK
There is a loose block at the top of Pegasus beneath the small roof, on the left side. Be aware - Don't use it as a handhold.

East Peak Fall Wall
Super Power - 5.11d?
I ripped a very essential sidepull crimp off of 'Super Power' (never did the climb, though). Originally rated @ 5.11d, it could be a twelve now. (it was an accident)

East Peak Merimere Face
Thor's Hammer - 5.9
A Connecticut Classic.

Sleeping Giant Chin
Micron - 5.10b
This climb is sweet. As with most climbs at the Giant, toprope is preferred because trad on this mountain is scary..pro pops. But this is a face climb anyway. It has two variations, one ending just to the right of the flat-topped clif edge, the other goes straight up via a crazy dyno for the very top edge of the cliff. This second variation increases the overall difficulty dramatically...TRY BOTH! The best feature about this climb is its solid, positive crimpholds the whole way...forget what you heard, this climb is definately not chossy.

Sleeping Giant Chin
Bolted - 5.8+ WARNING:BIRD CRAP
A really fun climb, with a great rap station at its base, but just be careful...occassionally it's splattered with bird crap.

Please Send Beta HERE!

CRAG	Route	BETA
West Rock State Park	3 Judges' Cave	There is bouldering at West Rock in New Haven. More Info.
Gunks, NY	Peter's Kill Area	Peter's Kill Area's -Official- Closing date for the winter is December 15.
East Peak Ampitheater	Dol Guldur - 5.11c	The top section (the original finish) above the arch has become extremely loose in some places. Apparently, in an attempt to clean some loose stuff, someone made it worse. Some of the holds that shorter folks would use traversing back right are gone.
Cathole Pass	Pegasus - 5.9	WARNING:LOOSE ROCK There is a loose block at the top of Pegasus beneath the small roof, on the left side. Be aware - Don't use it as a handhold.
East Peak Fall Wall	Super Power - 5.11d?	I ripped a very essential sidepull crimp off of 'Super Power' (never did the climb, though). Originally rated @ 5.11d, it could be a twelve now. (it was an accident)
East Peak Merimere Face	Thor's Hammer - 5.9	A Connecticut Classic.
Sleeping Giant Chin	Micron - 5.10b	This climb is sweet. As with most climbs at the Giant, toprope is preferred because trad on this mountain is scary..pro pops. But this is a face climb anyway. It has two variations, one ending just to the right of the flat-topped clif edge, the other goes straight up via a crazy dyno for the very top edge of the cliff. This second variation increases the overall difficulty dramatically...TRY BOTH! The best feature about this climb is its solid, positive crimpholds the whole way...forget what you heard, this climb is definately not chossy.
Sleeping Giant Chin	Bolted - 5.8+	WARNING:BIRD CRAP A really fun climb, with a great rap station at its base, but just be careful...occassionally it's splattered with bird crap.
		Please Send Beta HERE!

As outdoor enthousiasts, we should all respect the cliffs and the surrounding areas. Leave the cliff area free of all trash. If you see trash, pick a little up. This way we can continue to climb at beautiful areas. At East Peak, please appease the authorities and obey park hours. Just SAY NO to high-visibility chalking on the rock.

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