Cleaning Your Computer
by NOWAYWINS and AngelPie_Mouse

The techie types like to make a big deal out of what it takes to clean a computer. Admittedly, the first time you look inside and see the guts of the thing, it can seem rather intimidating. All those wires and chips and little solder points--what do they all mean? Can I touch it? Will it break? But, let's face it, those techies have a vested interest involved in this very simple task of computer maintenance. The average cost to have them merely look at a computer requires a down payment of $80 bucks or more, nevermind the actual cost of parts and labor. Plus, the normal wear and tear caused by heat, dust, and simple usage is really part of the built-in obsolescence of the thing, a guarantee that you'll be in the computer store buying a new computer just that much sooner. It's their bread and butter, provides them with a sales commission and a few extra installation charges for those extra bells and whistles you just have to have. It's not you're fault they don't make computers like refrigerators. Heck, they don't even make refrigerators like refrigerators anymore. However, you can fight back, take charge, be the master of your own destiny...well, just a little...by learning to do a few of the hardware maintenance chores yourself.

Disclaimer: If your computer is still under warranty, DON'T VOID THE WARRANTY. On the other hand, if it is very dirty and you really think you can do this, pick up the telephone and call the manufacturer, the number should be located in your owner's manual. Explain to the technician that you need to open the computer to clean it only. They will usually give you a warranty verification number, indicating you may proceed without losing your contract. Make sure you note this number in your owner's manual and on an address label to be placed over the old warranty label when you finish.

In the list below, we will offer you a step by step process of how to clean your computer hardware. The information in some places represents two distinct points of view from two people who already do it themselves--NOWAYWINS and me. The main thing you should get from such discrepancies is a matter of cost effectiveness versus normal care. Our list of tools differs slightly for instance. NOWAYWINS says you need: a marking pen, Q-Tips, a low powered vacuum cleaner, a can of air. I say: scotch tape and a pen and scrap paper, a lint free brush, any vacuum cleaner with both suction and reverse suction with an flow constrictor, a residue-free cleaner, and a lint free damp cloth (not paper towels). We both agree that you need a screwdriver and sewing machine or a light machine oil.

If at any time in the procedure we are about to describe you feel uncomfortable, then stop, put things back together the way they were, and don't go any further. You should not have to force anything in this process including how things came apart and yourself.

Step One: Turn Off the Power and Unplug from the electrical source. You don't want to do any work on your computer with power going to motherboard or other hardware components.

Step Two: Label the Exterior Cables and Connection Ports, if not already labeled. While most plugs and connections are one-size and one-shape fits one port in one direction only, there are a few pesky ones. Too, some manufacturers deliberately do not label the ports. Your modem card, for example, usually has input and output connections, which look identical. So before you unplug the phone line, it's best to mark which hole you want to put it back into. Similarly, your keyboard port and your mouse port look a lot alike. If they are not labeled now, label them. NOWAYWINS wants you to put a simple little mark next to the proper port. I want you to read what is engraved in the metal strip next to the port if there is one or put a label on both the wire and the port it connects to "mouse," "phone input," etc.

In point of fact, if you have any worry or concern that you might make a mistake at all, go ahead and label everything. It will make you feel much more confident of being able to reconnect things properly when finished. The first time inside your computer, you need all the confidence you can muster. By the way, if you have a manufacturer or brand name computer, check your owner's manual, which will offer you a diagram for how different devices should be connected.

Step Three: Check and Clean External Cables. You are looking for four things: suppleness and flexibility of the cable, cracks, connector head connection, dust in the connector head collar. If the cable has lost suppleness or flexibility, replace it. If there are cracks, dog-chew marks, any breaks in the insulation, replace it. If the cable has pulled slightly from the connector head or plug end, replace it. If none of the afore are true, then take a damp (not wet) lint free cloth and wipe the length of the cable. In the course of every day life, the cable will pick up dust, oily residues from tobacco and cooking, airborne contaminates mixed with humidity, etc. Things may get spilled on them. These will eventually cause deterioration, weaknesses in the insulation. Keeping the cables clean will prolong their life and thus the life of your computer system.

With the lint-free brush (or a Q-Tip if you are careful to blow out the cotton lint after), clean the collar of the cable connector heads. Make sure there are no signs of scorching or discoloration in the pins (if a male connector) or receptacle points (if a female connector). If there are, replace the cable. A bad cable is not worth messing around with and working with problems is usually a disaster waiting to happen.

Step Four: Open the Computer Case. This is the big one, the first time around heart-stopping rush. There will usually be five phillips head screws only holding the case panels on--all in the back. That, of course, is not always true--some manufacturers use slide clips to hold the case together. You should be able to remove these fairly easily. DON'T FORCE ANYTHING. If you have to pry at it, you aren't meant to remove or open it.

If you want to strip down to the frame only, you'll need to remove all panels. Usually, however, you'll only need to remove the top and one side panel. Once the screws are out, the panels should slide off rather easily. I do not recommend you remove the front panel, however, unless you really know what you are doing. The front panel usually has the busy lights, on-off switch, and reset buttons to it. These have springs and wires that you don't want to chance dislodging or losing (the springs especially have a nasty tendency to lose themselves by shooting across the room). What needs to be cleaned and maintained in the case front can usually be done from the inside of the case or externally once you've reassembled the case.

You can take the case cover panels, if they have no electrical parts to them at all, and immerse them in a warm bath of residue free solvent or cleaner and water. A mild detergent will work also but you must make sure you rinse thoroughly to remove all residue they may leave behind. You will want to dry them thoroughly also before reassembling the case. DO NOT PUT THEM IN DISHWASHER DRY CYCLE. Instead, dry by hand with a towel and blow dry them with your vacuum cleaner to remove towel lint and residual moisture.

Step Five: Just Look. You may be surprised at how much room there is inside. You also may be alarmed by what appears to be a jumble of wires and ribbon cables. The space, generally, is so moving parts such as fan blades don't make contact with cables and wires and so there is plenty of room for cool air to pass over the components. The ribbon cables and the wires really are not so very jumbled as they may first appear.

However, at this point, don't touch anything. Really look at the layout of your system. Do you recognize the various components? Do you know which is a hard drive, which a CD-ROM? Can you tell what the various wires and ribbon cables are connecting to? in what order? in what direction? I am not trying to intimidate you. You should be familiar with what this looks like enough to say: "oh, that's what my floppy drive looks like inside my computer."

Those flat ribbons with a single red line down one edge are called ribbon cables. They are all coming off the motherboard or other cards on the motherboard from device controllers. These carry the signals from the CPU to the device to perform the tasks you require of the system. The electrical wires are all coming out of a bundle in the power supply to power those devices and the fans inside your computer. Visually, check both wires and cables for cracks and damage. Do Not Remove or Disconnect Them. Also, at this point, you might want to consult your owner's manual for a diagram. You might want to make a diagram yourself of what you are actually seeing (these can differ if you've added components or had them added). If possible, you might want to record the manufacturer name, model and serial number off parts such as your video and sound cards, modem, hard drives, CD-ROMs, etc. You are in here, you might as well. This information will help you later, also, if you need to acquire device drivers or software upgrades to devices.

Step Six: Indentify Your Fans. I cannot predict how many there will be in your computer. This differs greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer. Typically, there is one located in the power supply, one on the CPU called the heat sink fan, and one in the front of the case next to the internal speaker (this may be behind a plastic cover). You should be able to clean them generally in place without removing them. If they are caked with dirt but the blades move freely, you can remove them and put them in the bath with case panels. They'll take a little longer to dry and you'll need to oil them afterward (one drop of light machine oil only, you don't want to splatter your motherboard and cards with oil). However, if the fans are not moving freely, if you suspect they may have seized from dirt and ceased to function, remove and replace them. Fans are fairly cheap, but they are very important. One technician I am in regular contact with recommends changing them outright every six months or sooner.

With your power supply fan, you may have to remove the power supply from its mounts in the case. The power supply fan in many computers is on the underside of the box in which the power supply is housed with a metal grill cover over it. Remove the mounting screws and carefully, turn the power supply over. You don't want to actually disconnect it from devices unless you have to. Remove the grill and clean it. Then, clean the fan as above.

The fan on the front inside of the case next to the internal speaker is usually the dirtiest and most inclined to seizing up. This fan draws air into your computer and is most likely to pick up dust, pet fur or feathers, cigarette ashe, etc. It is often behind a plastic cover set into the metal frame slots. You need to pinch the cover slightly and press in to remove it, sort of like a child safety cap on medicines. Don't Force It! Check the fan as above.

Step Seven: Blow Out or Suction Lose Debris and Dust. If you don't have a vacuum cleaner you can use, simply blowing on it ought to do the job. Yes, there is a certain amount of humidity and the chance of spittle involved in doing this with your mouth, but usually little more so than with ambient humidity. You can also obtain canned air from most electronic parts stores, which NOWAYWINS recommends. You can also wipe the bottom interior of the case and frame, the outer cover of the power supply, with a damp (not wet) lint free cloth. Lightly brush off or air blow the device connections and boards. You mostly want to dislodge dust, pet fur, feathers, and danders so that you can blow them away easily.

Step Eight: Allow To Dry. Allow several hours for any parts you got wet. Indeed, you can use this time to clean your keyboard, mouse, printer, and other external devices.

Step Nine: Reassemble The Case. Before you put the panels back on, finger check the cable and wire connections to the power supply, the motherboard and cards, and devices. These can sometimes become lose merely in moving your computer across the desk. You want to make sure they are seated completely. A finger check is merely applying light pressure with your finger-tips to the back of the connection. If it is lose at all, this will restore proper contact.

Step Ten: Reconnect The External Wires and Cables and Power Up. That's it. Cleaning your computer will add life to your system, will make it run cooler and more efficiently. But, again, let me stress that if at any point in the procedure you feel uncomfortable, don't force it. Just put things back the way they were.

What if you have to replace cables or fans? Most computer outlet stores will carry the necessary cables and parts you need. A standard 2" brushless muffin fan, for example, will cost about $2.00; a printer cable replacement, about $15.00 -$20.00. You can order parts by mail from companies such as Rogers Systems (http://www.rogerssystems.com) here in California. Best Buy (http://www.bestbuy.com/) and Circuit City (http://www.circuitcity.com/init.jsp) also have online services. Again, these items are relatively cheap compared to the life expectancy of your entire system and the cost of replacing your computer. If some minor parts are worn or damaged, don't tempt fate.

Other Articles This Issue:

Article: FAQ About Copyrights Online by Arizona_Kate

Article: Are email hoax's harmless? by David Emery (and other material from the archives of NOWAYWINS)

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