or, "NO, I don't want a #@%%*$# Bemo, massage, post card, plait your hair, bracelet, watches, money belt, necklace, magic mushroom or jiggy jig!"

Bali - the very name conjours up exotic images. A tropical paradise set in the midst of the Indonesian archipeligo. An enigmatic culture (to western eyes). But also the tourist mecca to many Australians.
So it was that Andrew, Leonie and Kathryn determined this as the destination of a well earned holiday in January 1998.

There was great excitement as we packed our bags (not that there was much packing to do - more ensureing that we had sufficient items for the immediate future, and enough bags to take all the expected shopping!), and headed off to Perth International Airport on a warm January evening. Leonie had been "overseas" before, but for Andrew and Kathryn, this was the first overseas trip. The plane was due to leave at about 9pm, but was delayed due to the late arrival of the connecting flight from Sydney. This gave us ample time to browse the duty free shops as we waited, but somehow, even these "bargain prices" seemed to have no attraction compared to the anticipated shopping in Bali.

The flight was relatively uneventful, with the usual standard of in-flight catering and entertainment (we watched the comedy "In and Out").

From Perth, it is about a three hour flight to Bali, and so it was about 1am when we arrived at the Ngurah Rai Airport. As we stepped from the airconditioned plane, the tropical air seemed to hit all our senses at once. The trip through customs was unexpectedly quick and simple, and before we knew it we were being whisked by porters out to our waiting hotel transfer transport. We had been warned that the porters sometimes demanded fairly expensive tips, and that they liked the Australian $2 coins. Unfortunately, they had our baggage before we could say anything, and then as we hopped into the vehicle, demanded $10! We fished out a few $2 coins and were then on our way. The streets in Bali are often narrow, and twist and turn. So it was somewhat bewildering as were travelled through the near deserted (except for the many roaming dogs, and the occasional person) streets of Kuta up to our hotel at Legian. We were to stay at the Bali Mandira for the next six nights, and it was with some releif that we arrived at our rooms, showered (already we were dripping with perspiration, even at that hour of the morning), and went to bed.

Kathryn outside our hotel bungalow room.

The next morning we explored our hotel, found the resteraunt for breakfast, and prepared to face the streets and the shops. Now, we had been warned of the persistence of the hawkers, but nothing prepares you for your first encounter with these people. Within a minute of being outside our hotel, Kathryn and Leonie had been cornered by some ladies wanting to plait Kathryns hair (which we eventually paid A$5 for, and later found out the going rate was more like A$2), Leonie was being assailed by perfume and watch salesmen, and I was almost conned into a "prize winning" time-share arrangement! Boy, were we green! But did we ever learn fast! We eventually managed to talk our way out of most of the sale pitches (although it seemed a good idea to have had Kathryns hair plaited, as afterwards they didn't bother us for that service again - in fact, we kept her hair that way until after we arrived back in Australia).

We were "fortunate" enough to be in Bali when the Indonesian currency crisis was at its height, and were able to get exchange rates of between 6,500 to nearly 8,000 Rp to the A$. I say "fortunate", but I guess its not so good for the Balinese, and it took some time for their prices to adjust to the changed currency conditions. We began to see prices rising throughout our visit, but on that first day it all seemed so cheap and easy. Our priority was to find a good exchange rate and get some Rupiah. We eventually picked a good one, and changed some money, carefully counting out our stacks of 10,000 and 5,000 Rp notes - great wads of them. It seems the money changer had "difficulty" counting them too, and twice we had to ask him to put more Rupiah on the table! But, we eventually left satisfied and ready to spend.

It took us some time to get used to the bargaining trick, and so at first we were happy to find the Matahari department store, were we bought shoes, clothes, and some food and drinks for the evening. By now were where a bit more confident with the hawkers, waving away those that did not interest us, and haggling with the others as best we could. ("You buy? Cheap! Bloody cheap!")

We arrived back at the hotel, after shaking off one particularly aggressive hawker selling perfume (Leonie eventually bought some to get rid of him), and found the pool to relax by, and enjoy the late afternoon. Unfortunatley, Kathryn had a hard time of it and cut her foot on a tile edge in the pool shortly after this picture was taken.

When we had been collected from the airport, the tour company had offered sight seeing tours. So, that first day we arranged one for the next afternoon. After another morning of shopping, we were collected promptly at the appointed time by our guide, August (named because he was born in August - obviously), and his driver. Transport in Bali is usually in what they call bemos - a kind of small bus or large multi-seat car. There are public ones which ply the streets, and private ones, the drivers always touting for a fare ("You want transport?"). There are also metered taxis, which we found out later were very reasonably priced. For the tours, though, the price is agreed up front, and the itinery is generally set (although you can hire a bemo to go wherever you want - but it can work out relatively expensive).
Click on the Bemo to continue on the journey, or click here