GIA
Cut Researchers Produce Study on Fire; Results Published in Fall
2001 G&G
( Press release by GIA }
Researchers at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
have published findings from the second of their multi-part
study on diamond cut - this one concerning the effect of
proportions on "fire" in round brilliant diamonds -
and the results appear in the Fall 2001 issue of the
Institute’s peer-reviewed journal, Gems & Gemology,
mailed to subscribers Nov. 1. The article is titled "Modeling
the Appearance of the Round Brilliant Cut Diamond: An Analysis
of Fire, and More About Brilliance."
In this segment of their comprehensive study on diamond cut,
the researchers used a computer-modeled "virtual"
diamond, and to analyze fire they developed a metric they call
dispersed colored light return (DCLR). A prime conclusion
reached by the research team is that there is no single
"best" set of proportions for a round brilliant that
maximizes fire. Instead, as they also found in their earlier
study of brilliance (evaluated as weighted light return, or
WLR), published in the Fall 1998 issue of G&G, there
are many different sets of proportions that can achieve this
goal.
In this study, GIA researchers computed the DCLR value for
more than 26,000 combinations of round brilliant proportions -
including crown and pavilion angles, table size, lengths of the
star and lower-girdle facets, culet size, and girdle thickness.
They checked predictions from these metrics against images
collected from 28 actual diamonds acquired or manufactured for
the study and another 400 that had been submitted to the GIA Gem
Trade Laboratory for grading reports. The researchers found many
sets of proportions that produce average or above-average values
for both fire and brilliance.
The researchers also found that the lengths of star- and
lower-girdle facets may play an important role in improving both
fire and brilliance, something ignored in most previous studies
on cut and in current commercial cut grading systems. For
example, according to the G&G article, lengthening
the lower-girdle facets from Marcel Tolkowsky’s value of 50%
to a "modern" value of 75% to 85% caused a
considerable increase in DCLR. Similarly, varying the length of
the star facets also affected DCLR, although the difference
showed no obvious trend and depended on other proportion
factors. Tolkowsky developed parameters for the modern round
brilliant cut in a monograph published in 1919.
The GIA studies on brilliance and fire create the basis for a
better understanding of how cut proportions work together in a
round brilliant diamond. This information could lead to a
greater degree of freedom for diamond manufacturers, providing
improved yields from rough while achieving above-average fire
and brilliance. For example, cutters may be able to adjust star,
upper-girdle, and lower-girdle facets in the final stages of the
manufacturing process to improve a round brilliant’s
appearance. However, small variations in some proportions can
have a large effect on appearance, so greater precision in
manufacturing may be necessary.
GIA President William E. Boyajian has said the Institute
plans to add more information regarding cut to Diamond Grading
Reports issued by the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory in 2002.
The research team consisted of Dr. Ilene Reinitz, Dr. Mary L.
Johnson, T. Scott Hemphill, Al M. Gilbertson, Ron H. Geurts,
Barak Green, and Dr. James E. Shigley. The researchers are also
providing an ongoing series of short articles, GIA on Diamond
Cut, that can be viewed on the Research page of GIA’s Web
site, www.gia.edu <http://www.gia.edu>.
To purchase a copy of the current Fall 2001 issue of Gems
& Gemology, with the full study on fire, go to
www.gia.edu/gandg <http://www.gia.edu/gandg/>; or contact
Subscriptions Manager Debbie Ortiz at 800-421-7250 ext. 7142
(toll-free) or, outside the U.S. and Canada, at 760-603-4000,
ext. 7142.