(FAQ) Of Technics SL-1200Mk2/SL-1210Mk2 decks

OTHER HACKS & FIXES

 

Adjustment of braking

Doing this you can get your decks to brake hard enuff to make it spin backwards when you hit STOP. Most decks have this set correctly but if yours isn't then you can do this. Pop open the top as described, and look for pot VR201 - It's on the right side next to the blue pitch pot described above and says "brake" next to it. Turn it to the right to increase the braking time. I suggest you just nudge it a little to the right and see what happens by placing the platter back on and playing with the start/stop button. Make sure you unplug the turntable from the wall before taking off the platter again. Note that it takes slightly more force to stop a platter w/record vs. an empty platter.

Eliminating the ground wire

This may work only with certain setups -- to be sure: use a multimeter and do a continuity check between the ground screw on the back of your mixer/pre-amp/whatever and the outer conductor of the RCA jack inputs. Check both channels. Not all systems share a common ground. If it does, remove the rubber base from your TT. Remove the screws to the plastic stress clip for the cable coming out from under the tonearm. Dissasemble the clip. Remove the two screws holding down the round plate. Move it out of the way. Use two short lengths of wire and solder both to the ground tab the current wire is connected to. Solder the end of one wire to the shield of one channel in the audio cable where it is soldered to the PCB, and do the same for the other wire and channel. You can desolder and remove the old ground wire if you want. (I left mine on just in case) You may not want to do this mod if you are using different mixers constantly.

Changing the pop-up lights

  1. remove the base as described previous.
  2. remove the two screws holding the whole light fixture from beneath.
  3. Use a jewelers screwdriver ( with the rotating tops so you can apply pressure while turning ) to remove the small screw at the bottom of the metal cylinder where the bulb is. Make sure to get a correct size screwdriver as some decks have this really torqued in. (read below)
  4. If you are a DIYer it's a ~20VDC bulb. Be careful here or you may kill your turntable (12-14v bulbs won't work - they glow faintly when the cylinder is down and burn out too quickly - they sure are bright though) You'll need the right size too, some may need a slight modification to fit--use the soldering iron to burn off some of the glue at the base.

    If you aren't a DIYer you'll want to read this:

    ...As far as the replacement bulb was concerned, I played no games; I contacted an electronics shop in Oakland that's an authorized Panasonic/Matsushita dealer, and ordered _two_ lamps (just in case I messed up). I ordered them, and they arrived via UPS 3 days latter. I think the lamps were kind of pricey, around $4.95 each. By the way, If anyone needs it, I have a list of authorized dealers that I can e-mail or fax to you. [EdNote: It's Cass Electronics in Oakland,CA and the part number is SFDN122-01 : "Lamp, stylus illuminator" ]

  5. Using a small precision (jeweler's) screwdriver, remove the polished aluminium shell to expose the bulb.

    [This is where you have to be a little careful and patient. Since the screw was torqued in pretty good from the factory, what I did was used a pair of pliers to turn the screwdriver, while pushing down firmly to keep it from stripping the screw head. Since the screw is pretty small (and easily stripped), MAKE SURE you have a screwdriver that fits the screw EXACTLY; even if you have to go 40 miles to a store to buy the right screwdriver, do it. After all, if you paid nearly $400 US to buy a 1200, don't cheat yourself by buying a cheap screwdriver that can damage it.]

  6. Remove the bulb from the lamp housing and clip it off from the two wires as close to lamp as possible. You'll want to leave enough wire left over, just in case the bulbs you get don't have long enough leads.
  7. Solder (or twist) the wires of the bulb to the corresponding wires coming from the turntable.

    [EdNote: Make sure you use electrical tape or shrink tubing on each wire when done!]

    Insert the new bulb into the lamp housing and re-attach the polished aluminium shell.

    Re-install the lamp unit into the turntable. Before you replace the bottom rubber base, test the pop-up switch to make sure that the bulb leads won't get caught. If there is too much spare wire, you'll either remove the excess or just tuck it out of the way.

    Replace the bottom rubber base, and install the four rubber feet. Connect power cord, and make sure the light bulb lights and pops up cleanly.

This whole procedure should only take 10-15 minutes at the most. Best of all, if you have the right tools (precision screwdriver, regular Phillips screwdriver, and a set of pliers) it should be an easy thing to do.

Fixing the power switch when the knob comes off

Have you ever lost the shaft -- when you happen to twist the black knob right off? If you turn your TT upside down it won't come back so you'll need to do this: remove the base as described above and look where the power switch is. Push the shaft back up and reattach the black knob. You may want to put a drop of glue in the knob center/bottom before replacing it to help prevent this. Or you could just tape down the knob and use a power strip to turn your TT on and off.

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Disassembly of your 1200

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Other Hacks / Fixes