| Fairfax City’s got a
few examples of old architecture, buildings that obviously predate
most of the suburban sprawl we live in. Amid ultra-modern office
complexes for belly-up startups with names like “BrainThought” one can
see the garish signage of a half century ago, faded rainbows lit with
rows of filament luminescence surviving outside a few motels and
diners. Seriously, 29/50 through Fairfax and the nearby stretch of 29
proper right before Gallows Road are pieces of some prehistoric
Miracle Mile, and their weathered but still standing aesthetic is
cause for exaltation. And there’s no better place to commence this
worship than in the obvious focus of the movement, the ultimate
artifact, the Tastee 29 diner. The menus proudly proclaim the founding of this “building” (part of
that classical diner movement in which one is never quite sure if the
design pays homage to the classic double-wide or if this is, indeed, a
converted trailer) in 1947, and since then it has been given it’s due
and been recognized as a historical landmark. But this isn’t some
artificial theme park recreation, Tastee 29 has a purity in it’s
authenticity. Why is it still a 1940s style diner? One gets the
feeling that much of the reason is that remodeling would be too
expensive. The wait staff, too, is of our century (not instructed to
playact the part of throwbacks). I’ve been privy to some phenomenally
interesting conversations with my servers when a Tuesday night drinky
needed a shot of sobriety at its end. This place is a magnet for
characters, the insomniac versions of Hayworth at Schwabs. In fact,
let me recommend the midnight to 8 AM staff, Sunday through Wednesday,
if I remember that shift breakdown right. They could not have been
friendlier to us.
In high school I wasn’t a big fan of this place, my cynicism layered
on a sense of manufacture to its atmosphere. Nowadays, I’m of a
different mind; there might be some strategy in keeping the place
simple and absolute, but it’s still simple and absolute. I’ve always
been happy of the volume resulting from a single coffee order. I never
get a cold “loitering to long” shoulder before I’m ready to depart
myself. The food’s greasy by design, which might be means for
complaint to some; I’ll continue to fall into the opposing camp up
until my third heart attack.
They say the strongest memory cues, and therefore some of the most
meaningful sensory data, are olfactory. As we left Tastee 29 on Matt’s
first visit, he sniffed his jacket, and said something like, “Cool, I
can still smell the fried food. My jacket’s going to smell like diner.”
Maybe that says it all; Tastee 29 has got exactly the right smell.
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The American Diner is
a archetype establishment all unto itself. You find them everywhere,
easily identified by their cozy neon glow and shiny chrome stell trim.
Some have waitresses in aprons on roller skates, some have the black
and white checkered floor, some have ceramic busts of Elvis. The one
thing they all have in common is that they chase the ghost of the
essential diner-ness. Tastee 29 Diner is as close to that ideal as I
have been. No quirks, no novelties and no gimmicks (those are for 50's
diners, not 40's), Tastee 29 is true fried food and bottomless coffee
cup diner through and through. But first
some history. . .
The first time I came here it was on one of
Brian and my "walkabouts". Basically we pick a direction and drive
while looking for something new. This was one of those sites that
Brian knew of but I didn't and he insisted we stop. I was impressed by
the appearance of this joint from the outside. I judge diners by the
amount of grease on the exterior walls - the more the better. This
place had enough that it may be best to visit the first time at night.
The interior is a different story - a little cramped, but clean and
spic and span, just as it should be. As you enter note the vintage
mechanical cash register and 'yjbadftjb' sign by the clock. Go ahead,
ask the staff about that last one.
I decided to test the diner with a true diner
order - coffee and a fried egg sandwich. Both were delivered quickly,
efficiently and with a friendly smile. We chatted with our waitress -
always a good sign. The food was good and I left happy.
Since then I've been here after drinking at
night. I've been here before going out hunting in the early morning.
I've been here after hunting when I'm all nasty. I've been here while
trapped in the throes of insomnia. It doesn't matter. The nice thing
about 29 Diner is that it truly is a 24 hour operation and you get the
same good food and friendly service whenever you visit.
My friends know that this is the diner by which
all other diners are judged. They have pitted their favorite 24 hour
places versus mine and have always been found wanting. Truly, Tastee
29 is a tough act to follow. |