This section is taken from a description by Tim Dawson, with a couple of changes to make construction easier.

To make a simple spangenhelm of the type common in our period, you need:

Use 1.6mm thick (16ga) mild steel throughout, preferably cold-rolled (bright) steel, so you don’t have to remove a black layer before you can have a bright shiny helmet (as all Byzantine helmets seem to be). Black steel can be made shiny by soaking in vinegar with a bit of salt added. See here for details of the technique.

First measure the circumference of your head at brow level, and add enough for 13mm (1/2") padding all round (just add 8 cm (3") to the length) (‘A’). Then measure over the crown, allowing for at least 25mm (1")padding on top (‘B’).

Fig . 1

Make up an oval hoop of steel strip to length ‘A’. Before you do this, you can improve the look of the helmet by bending the strip along its length in a gentle 'V' shape, to follow the upward curve of the helmet better. You can JUST see this in fig. 5.

For a helmet with a nasal, put the join in the browband at the front, where it will be hidden. Otherwise, put it at the back - it is less obvious there.

NOTE: The little evidence we have of spangenhelm construction – from contemporary art and archaeological finds – indicates that spangenhelms were made with either;

1. four strips joined to a separate piece at the top (eg Gjermundbu helmet).

2. a central strip running from front to back of the helmet, and two strips joining it at the top, one from each side (eg the Coppergate helm).

It is common among re-enactors to make the helmet frame with two metal strips which cross at the apex. This works ok for round-topped helmets, but is not much good when your helmet is conical – the upper strip often deforms at the crossing point, and results in an unattractive botch.(Yes, I know figs. 1 and 4 show the helmets made the way I don't recommend - I need to change the pictures).

A small conical “cap” beaten out of a circular piece of sheet steel is a quick and easy way to join a four-piece frame at the apex. At least one surviving helmet (an undated spangenhelm found in Bulgaria) is made this way.

Fig . 2

Fig . 3

EITHER:

Make four arched bands at least half as long as ‘B’. Drill and and bolt them to the conical cap, as shown in fig. 2. Note that the ends of the strips should be 'V'-shaped, with the sides of the 'V' at right angles to each other, to prevent the ends of the strips from fouling each other. This can get a bit fiddly, as a smallish cap won't hide the beginning of the 'V'. Use your judgment for the size of the cap.

OR

Make one frame piece the length of 'B', and two side pieces half that length, as in fig. 3.Drill and bolt them together, with the side pieces fitting underneath the centre strip.

It is a good idea to put a ridge down the length of the strips, as they then fit the curve of the helmet better (see figs. 2 & 3). Alternatively, you can put a shallow curve across each strip, which does the same thing.

You can make these arched strips longer to give you a taller helmet. Note also that because your head is oval, not circular, the side pieces will be a little shorter than the front and back pieces.

You can also add 100 mm (4") to the front piece to make a nasal, but you’ll need two layers of 1.6mm (16 ga) steel strip to make it strong enough not to bend. Alternatively, make a separate nasal out of 3mm (1/8") steel.

Drill two holes, one above each other, at the exact centre of the oval browband (if you only have one hole, the strip will pivot off at an angle). Then drill two holes, one above each other - i.e four holes in all - about 5mm (1/4") from each end of the browband.

Put your front and back strips in place (or the central strip, if that's the way you're making the helmet) and check that the frame looks ok, with the strips exactly vertical and the apex above the middle of the helmet. Clamp together and drill. Do the ends of the browband first, then the centre. Bolt together.

Once you have the front and the back bolted together, centre up the side strips, then drill and bolt them in place.

Once you've done this, you can replace the bolts with rivets - all except the ones at the bottom of the side pieces - they're going to be where you fix your chinstrap. Now, take one bolt out, and put a rivet in its place. Then the next and the next. DON'T take all the bolts out and then do the rivetting - the frame pieces move and you'll never get them back into quite the right place.

For instructions on traditional rivetting, click

here

ASSEMBLY

Drill four evenly spaced pairs of 3mm (1/8")holes on each side of each strip, and drill 3mm holes about 25mm (1") apart around the bottom of the oval strip, as shown in fig 4.

Fig. 4

Cut four plates of this sort of shape from the sheet steel.

Triangular panels are cut to fit into the openings in the frame with approx. 15mm (3/4")overlap. Be a little over-generous in making your triangles. It's not much fun dishing the plate then finding it's just a little too small.

The plates are "dished" using a hammer with a gently convex face (e.g. panelbeater’s hammer)

Adjust the shape of the plate until it fits EXACTLY inside the frame opening. (If you force it into a space it doesn’t quite fit into, the frame will warp out of shape.) As each panel fits, trim if necessary so that it covers half of each strip from inside.

Once all the plates fit into the openings, drill through the existing holes in the strips and through each new plate, fixing them together with a nut and bolt as you drill each hole. Don’t do them up too tight just yet. Continue until all plates are formed and in place, and check that the helmet doesn’t look "wonky". Then tighten the bolts evenly all round the helmet. Check again that the helmet shape is correct.

At this point you need to decide how you will attach the straps that hold the helmet on, and whether you want an aventail (the protective “curtain” that covers the back of the neck. It can be made of mail, padding, or metal or leather scales.)Different races and cultures used different kinds of aventail, so check what kind is appropriate for your own representation. A mail aventail can be attached by drilling holes all round the lower rim of the browband, but the other types are rivetted in place. You can use the rivets which attach the helmet plates to the browband to also support straps and aventail, or use a separate set of rivets just for the straps and aventail, hidden under the browband. Plan how you’re going to do it now, and get the bits ready and in place. If you’re going to use a leather suspension system in the helmet instead of padding, this should also be arranged now.

RIVETTING

Now, take out the bolts one by one. As you take out each bolt, replace it with a rivet. This keeps the helmet in shape. If you take all the bolts out and then put in all the rivets, it’s likely to go out of shape, and the holes won’t line up. Believe me, this is the best way to go, from long and painful experience. Make sure your leather straps and buckle, and your suspension system (if you’re using one) are rivetted in place now. You can improve the look of the helmet if you drill larger holes in the browband and use 5mm (1/4”) domed rivets.

For information on traditional rivetting click here

FINISHING TOUCHES

Now your helmet is all but complete. If you aren't using a leather suspension system pad it with 12mm (1/2”) of felt or some similar substance. Alternatively use a padded arming cap, which will allow you to wear a mail coif (hood) under the helmet, as was common with this style of helmet.

Add a nasal if you like, and your first helmet is complete.

Fig. 5 - the completed helmet.

 Here is another spangenhelm site