2 T butter, softened, plus 8 T ½ tsp vanilla extract
unsalted butter, softened and 4 egg yolks
cut into ½-inch bits 3 T cold water
2 T plus 1 c flour ¾ c crab-apple jelly
4 tsp cornstarch ¾ c pure maple syrup*
1¼ tsp double-acting baking 1 ounce unsweetened baking chocolate,
powder coarsely grated
¼ tsp salt Candied cherries
6 egg whites Candied green citron
1 c sugar
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* The finest Vermont maple
syrup, labeled "Fancy," is a pale, almost-white amber color with delicate
flavor. "A," the next grade, is medium amber in color. Grade B is dark
amber, has a stronger flavor, and is the preferred syrup for cooking. Grade
C syrup, which is strongest and darkest is sold mostly to commercial food
processors.Pure maple syrup is at its best as soon as it is processed; it will not change color, but the flavor diminishes with age. After the container is opened, maple syrup should be refrigerated in a tightly covered jar or can. If the syrup crystallizes, set the jar in hot water and it will quickly liquefy. If mold forms on top, carefully skim it off with a spoon, then heat the syrup to 180° on a candy thermometer to inhibit further mold growth.
Preheat the oven to 350°. Brush 1 tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 10½-by-15½-inch jelly-roll pan. Line the pan with a 20-inch strip of wax paper and let the extra paper extend over the ends. Brush 1 tablespoon of softened butter on the paper and sprinkle it with 2 tablespoons of flour, tipping the pan from side to side. Turn the pan over and rap it sharply to remove the excess flour. Combine the 1 cup of flour, cornstarch, baking powder and salt and sift them onto a plate.
With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat 4 of the egg whites until they begin to thicken. Slowly add ½ cup of the sugar, beating continuously until the whites are stiff enough to form unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl. Beat in the vanilla.
In another bowl, and with the unwashed whisk or beater, beat the egg yolks, the remaining ½ cup of sugar and the water together. When the yolk mixture thickens enough to fall from the beater in a slowly dissolving ribbon, beat in the sifted flour mixture a few tablespoons at a time. Make sure each addition is completely incorporated before beating in more. Stir ½ cup of the beaten egg whites into the yolk mixture, then scoop it over the whites and fold the two together gently but thoroughly.
Pour the batter into the lined pan and spread it evenly into the corners with a spatula. Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes, or until the sides of the cake have begun to shrink away from the pan and the cake springs back instantly when pressed lightly with a fingertip.
Carefully turn the cake out on wax paper, peel the layer of paper from the top, and let it rest for 5 minutes, then spread the surface with crab-apple jelly. Starting at one long edge, roll the cake into a cylinder. Cut a 1-inch-thick slice from each end of the cake and trim each slice into a round about 1½ inches in diameter. Set the cake aside to cool.
To prepare the icing, bring the maple syrup to a boil over moderate heat in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan. Cook uncovered and undisturbed, regulating the heat to prevent the syrup from boiling over. When the syrup reaches a temperature of 238° on a candy thermometer, or when a drop spooned into ice water immediately forms a soft but compact mass, remove the pan from the heat. Add the chocolate and stir to dissolve it.
In a large bowl, beat the two remaining egg whites with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater until they are stiff enough to stand in unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl. Beating the egg whites constantly, pour in the maple syrup and chocolate mixture in a slow, thin stream and continue to beat until the mixture has cooled to room temperature. Then beat in the butter bits a few pieces at a time.
When the icing is smooth and thick, spread most of it over the top, sides and ends of the cake roll with a metal spatula or knife. With fork tines, make irregular lines the length of the roll to give the icing a barklike look and the cake the appearance of a log. Ice one side and the edges of the reserved rounds and set one on top of the log and the other on a side to resemble knotholes. Decorate the cake with holly berries made from the cherries and with leaf shapes cut from the citron. Serves 10.
