Cooking Around the World

AMERICA: EASTERN CANADA

Province Featured:  Quebec


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French Canadian Onion Soup


 5 T vegetable oil                        1 medium-sized celery stalk,
 2 pounds chicken backs and necks           including the green leaves 
 1 pound beef marrow bones, sawed         1 small parsnip, peeled and
   (not chopped) into 1-inch pieces         trimmed
   and wiped clean with a damp            4 sprigs fresh parsley and 1  
   towel                                    medium-sized bay leaf tied
 1 pound beef chuck, in one piece           together with kitchen string 
 3 quarts water                           ¼ tsp crumbled dried thyme
 2 medium-sized onions, unpeeled          1 tsp salt
   plus 2 pounds (about 2 large)          4 T butter
   onions, peeled and cut crosswise       Freshly ground black pepper
   into 1/8-inch-thick slices             8 one-inch-thick slices French or 
 1 medium-sized carrot, scraped             Italian-type bread
   and trimmed                           1½ c freshly grated Cheddar cheese 
                           ------------------------                           
In a heavy 12-inch skillet, warm 3 tablespoons of the oil over high heat until a light haze forms above it. Brown the chicken backs and necks in the hot oil, turning them frequently with tongs or a slotted spoon and regulating the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. As the pieces brown, transfer them to a heavy 8- to 10-quart casserole. Add the beef bones and chuck to the fat remaining in the skillet and brown them deeply on all sides, then transfer them to the casserole.

Pour off any fat remaining in the skillet and in its place add 2 cups of the water. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly and scraping in the brown particles that cling to the bottom and sides of the pan. Pour the boiling liquid and the remaining 2½ quarts of water over the chicken and beef in the casserole.

Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, meanwhile skimmimg off the foam and scum as they rise to the surface. Add the unpeeled onions, the carrot, celery, parsnip, parsley and bay leaf, thyme and salt. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for 4 hours.

With tongs or a slotted spoon, remove and discard the chicken backs and necks, beef bones, chuck and vegetables. Pour the remaining contents of the casserole into a fine sieve lined with a double thickness of dampened cheesecloth and set over a large bowl or pot. Let the cooking liquid drain through, undisturbed, then skim off as much of the fat as possible from the surface of the stock.

Meanwhile, melt the butter with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a heavy 5- to 6-quart saucepan. When the foam begins to subside, add the onion slices and, stirring occasionally, cook over low heat for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the onions are a rich golden brown. Watch carefully for any sign of burning and regulate the heat accordingly.

Pour in the hot stock and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for 30 to 40 minutes longer, or until the soup has the intensity of flavor you desire. (If any fat rises to the surface, skim it off with a large spoon and discard it.) Season to taste with a few grindings of pepper and more salt if needed.

While the soup is simmering, prepare the croûtes in the following fashion: Preheat the oven to 350°. Arrange the slices of bread next to one another on a large baking sheet and toast in the middle of the oven for 5 minutes on each side, or until they are golden brown. Remove the croûtes from the oven and set aside. Raise the oven heat to 375°.

Ladle the soup into 8 individual ovenproof soup bowls. Place a croûte in each bowl and sprinkle it with 3 tablespoons of the grated cheese. Bake in the top third of the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the cheese has melted. If you like, slide the soup under a hot broiler for a minute or so to brown the top. Serve at once. Serves 8.

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