5 medium-sized firm young Ground nutmeg, preferably freshly
straightneck squash (about grated
2½ pounds) ½ tsp salt
4 T butter, plus 1 T butter, Freshly ground black pepper
softened, plus 1 T butter 4 tsp soft fresh crumbs, made
cut into ¼-inch bits from homemade-type white
3 T finely chopped onions bread, pulverized in a blender
3 T flour or finely shredded with a fork
¾ c milk 4 T freshly grated mild Cheddar
¼ c light cream cheese
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Drop the squash into enough boiling water to cover them by at least 1
inch and boil briskly uncovered for 10 minutes. With tongs or a slotted
spoon, transfer the squash to paper towels to drain.When they are cool enough to handle, shape the squash into boatlike shells in the following manner: set the squash on their sides and then slice a ½-inch-thick horizontal strip off the top side of each squash, cutting lengthwise from within an inch of the stem end to within an inch of the bottom end. With a spoon, scrape the squash flesh from the strips before discarding them. Then hollow out the center of each squash to make a shell about ¼-inch thick. Invert the 4 most perfect shells on paper towels; discard the fifth one. Drain the squash flesh on additional towels.
Preheat the oven to 400°. In a heavy 8- to 10-inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, drop in the pieces of squash. Mashing the squash constantly with the back of a fork, cook for 3 or 4 minutes until it is dry and soft. Set the skillet aside off the heat.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a heavy 2- to 3-quart saucepan. Add the onions and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Stir in the flour and mix well. Stirring the mixture constantly with a wire whisk, gradually pour in the milk and cream and cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil and thickens heavily. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 3 minutes, then season to taste with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the mashed squash pulp.
With a pastry brush, spread the tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a shallow 6-by-12-inch baking dish. Arrange the squash shells in the dish side by side and hollow surfaces up. Spoon the creamed squash mixture into the shells, dividing it evenly among them and mounding the filling slightly in the center. Sprinkle each shell with 1 teaspoon of bread crumbs and 1 tablespoon of grated cheese. Dot the tops with the butter bits.
Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes, then slide the shells under a preheated broiler for a minute or so to brown the tops lightly. Serve the squash at once. Serves 4.
