½ c lukewarm water (110° to 115°) ½ tsp baking soda 2 packages active dry yeast 1½ c lukewarm milk (110° to 115°) 1 tsp plus 1 c sugar 8 T butter (1 quarter-pound 4 to 5 c flour stick), cut into ½-inch bits 1 tsp ground nutmeg, preferably and softened, plus 5 tsp butter, freshly grated softened, plus 4 T butter, melted ------------------------Pour the lukewarm water into a small bowl and sprinkle the yeast and 1 teaspoon of sugar over it. Let the yeast and sugar stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then mix well. Set in a warm, draft-free place (such as an unlighted oven) for about 10 minutes, or until the yeast bubbles up and the mixture almost doubles in volume.
Combine 4 cups of flour, the remaining cup of sugar, the nutmeg and soda and sift them into a deep mixing bowl. Make a well in the center, pour in the yeast and milk and, with a large wooden spoon, gradually incorporate the dry ingredients into the liquid ones. Stir until the mixture is smooth, then beat in the 8 tablespoons of butter bits, a tablespoonful at a time. Beat until the dough can be gathered into a medium-soft ball.
Place the ball on a lightly floured surface and knead, pushing the dough down with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward and folding it back on itself. As you knead, incorporate up to 1 cup more flour, sprinkling it over the ball by the tablespoon until the dough is no longer sticky. Then continue to knead for about 10 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, shiny and elastic.
With a pastry brush, spread 2 teaspoons of softened butter evenly over the inside of a large bowl. Set the dough in the bowl and turn it about to butter the entire surface. Drape the top with a kitchen towel and put it in the draft-free place for 1 hour, or until the dough doubles in volume.
Brush the bottoms and sides of three 9-inch pie tins with the remaining 3 teaspoons of softened butter. Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fist and, on a lightly floured surface, roll it out into a rough rectangle about ¾ inch thick.
With a cookie cutter or the rim of a glass, cut the dough into 2-inch rounds, placing the rounds side by side in the buttered tins as you proceed. Gather the scraps into a ball, roll them out again and cut as many more 2-inch rounds as you can. Brush the tops of the buns with the melted butter and set them in a draft-free place to rise for about 15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°. Bake the buns on the middle shelf of the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Serve Nahant buns hot, or transfer them to wire racks to cool before serving. Makes about 30 buns.