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Lobster Chowder


 A 3- to 3½-pound live lobster, or       1 whole clove  
   substitute two 1½- to 2-pound         4 whole black peppercorns
   live lobsters                         2 T butter, softened
 4 c light cream                         2 T fresh crumbs made from unsalted
 2 c milk                                  soda crackers pulverized in a
 2 medium-sized onions, peeled and         blender or placed between 2 
   cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick         pieces of wax paper and finely
   slices                                  crushed with a rolling pin
 1 large garlic clove, peeled and        2 egg yolks, well beaten
   crushed with a kitchen mallet, the    2 T pale dry sherry
   side of a cleaver or a heavy knife    1 tsp salt
 2 sprigs fresh parsley                  ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
 1 medium-sized bay leaf 
                      ------------------------------  

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil over high heat in a heavy casserole large enough to hold the lobster or lobsters comfortably. Place them in the casserole, cover tightly and cook briskly for 35 to 40 minutes (if 3 to 3½ pounds) or for 15 to 22 minutes (if the lobsters weigh 1½ to 2 pounds). To test for doneness, remove one of the lobsters from the pot and grasp the end of one of the small legs at either side of the body. Jerk the lobster sharply. If the leg pulls away from the body, the lobster is done. If the leg remains attached to the body, boil the lobster for 2 or 3 minutes longer. With tongs, transfer the lobsters to a platter.

When the lobsters are cool enough to handle, twist off the claws and crack each claw in two or three places with a nutcracker. Split each lobster in half lengthwise and remove and discard the gelatinous sac (stomach) in the head and the long white intestinal vein attached to it. Pick out and save the greenish-brown tomalley (liver), and reserve the red coral (roe) if there is any. Remove all the meat from the claws, body and tail, cut it into ½-inch pieces and set aside.

Chop the shells into 2-inch pieces and place them in a heavy 4- to 5-quart saucepan. Add the cream, milk, onions, garlic, parsley, bay leaf, clove and peppercorns and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for 45 minutes. Strain the entire contents of the pan through a fine sieve lined with a double thickness of dampened cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Return the cream-and-milk mixture to the saucepan. Discard the shalls, onions and herbs.

Meanwhile, rub the tomalley and coral (if any) through a fine sieve into a bowl with the back of a spoon. Add the butter and cracker crumbs and mash into a smooth paste with the spoon. Beat in about ½ cup of the cream and milk, blend well, then pour the tomalley mixture into the remaining cream and milk and stir until thoroughly combined. Add the reserved lobster meat and warm the chowder over low heat.

With a wire whisk or fork, beat the egg yolks, sherry, salt and ground pepper together. Stir in about ½ cup of the cream and then, stirring the chowder constantly, pour in the egg yolk mixture. Simmer for a few minutes until the chowder is heated through. Do not let it come near a boil or it will curdle. Taste for seasoning and serve at once from a heated tureen or in individual bowls. Serves 4 to 6.

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