¼ pound lean salt pork with rind body cut into 3-inch-thick steaks
removed, the pork cut into 2 c water
½-inch dice 2 medium-sized boiling potatoes,
1 T butter plus 2 T butter, cut peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
into ½-inch bits (about 2 cups)
1 c coarsely chopped onions 2 tsp salt
A 3- to 3½-pound haddock or cod, Freshly ground black pepper
cleaned, with head and tail 1 quart milk
removed but reserved and the 1/8 tsp crumbled dried thyme
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In a heavy 4- to 5-quart enameled or stainless-steel casserole, brown the
salt-pork dice in 1 tablespoon of butter over moderate heat, turning them
about with a slotted spoon until they are crisp and have rendered all their
fat. Add the onions and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes until
they are soft and golden brown.Place the haddock or cod head and tail in the casserole, pour in the water and bring to a boil over moderate heat, meanwhile skimming off the foam and scum that rise to the surface. Add the potatoes, 1 teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of pepper, reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for 15 minutes. Add the steaks and continue to simmer partially covered for 10 minutes longer, or until the fish flakes easily when prodded gently with a fork. (Skim off any foam or scum that rises to the surface.)
Remove and discard the fish head and tail. With tongs or slotted spoon, transfer the steaks to a platter. Remove the skin and bones from the steaks with a small knife and discard them. Cut the meat into 1-inch pieces and return them to the casserole.
Add the milk, the 2 tablespoons of butter bits, the thyme, the remaining teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of pepper to the casserole. Stirring gently, bring the chowder to a simmer over moderate heat and taste for seasoning.
Ladle the chowder into a heated tureen or individual soup plates, or, following New England custom, let it rest at room temperature for no longer than an hour, and reheat it briefly before serving. Serves 6.
