Cooking Around the World


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US State Featured:  Louisiana

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Louisiana cooks, of course, are renowned for their many, many excellent seafood dishes. I could write a book just on this subject alone. However, after much deliberation, I have chosen two such recipes to feature on this page. The choice of these two dishes was difficult, i.e., just to give the viewer an idea of some of my favorites that well could have been included here: Speckled Trout Marguery, Pompano en Papillote, Shrimp-and-Crab-stuffed Flounder, Baked Stuffed Redfish, etc.. The two recipes I did decide to publish on this page are: Catfish Étouffée and Bouillabaisse, Creole-Style.


Catfish Étouffée


 2 c freshly made fish stock**            1 T Worcestershire sauce
 4 T brown roux**                         1 small bay leaf, crumbled
 1 c finely chopped onions                ¼ tsp crumbled dried thyme
 1 c finely chopped scallions, including  ¼ tsp ground hot red pepper(cayenne)
   3 inches of the green tops             1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
 ½ c finely chopped celery                2 tsp salt
 ½ c finely chopped green pepper          2 pounds catfish fillets, skinned
 1 tsp finely chopped garlic                and cut into 1-inch chunks              
 A 1-pound can tomatoes, drained and      ½ c finely chopped fresh parsley,
   coarsely chopped                         preferably the flat-leaf Italian 
 2 ¼-inch-thick lemon slices                variety
                                          4 c freshly cooked white rice
                           ---------------------

** The recipes for fish stock and brown roux can be found in the table under "Louisiana Essentials"


In a small saucepan, bring the fish stock to a boil over high heat. Remove the pan from the heat and cover to keep the stock hot.

Warm the brown roux in a heavy 4- to 5-quart casserole set over low heat, stirring all the while. Add the onions, scallions, celery, green pepper and garlic and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, or until they are soft but not brown.

Stirring constantly, pour in the hot fish stock in a slow, thin stream. Then add the tomatoes, lemon slices, Worcestershire sauce, bay leaf, thyme, red and black pepper and salt. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes.

Add the chunks of catfish and the parsley, and stir gently to moisten the fish evenly with the simmering sauce. Cover the casserole partially again and, without stirring, simmer for 10 minutes longer, or until the catfish flakes easily when prodded gently with a fork.

Taste for seasoning and serve the catfish étouffée at once, directly from the casserole, or arranged attractively on a deep heated platter. Present the rice in a separate bowl. Serves 4.


Bouillabaisse, Creole-Style


 2 large garlic cloves, peeled and   12 med. uncooked shrimp, (about ½ pound)  
   coarsely chopped                   1 c finely chopped onions
 3 fresh parsley sprigs, coarsely     A 1-pound can tomatoes, drained and
   chopped                              coarsely chopped
 1 tsp crumbled dried thyme           2 c freshly made fish stock**
 1 small bay leaf, crumbled           ¼ tsp crumbled dried saffron threads,
 ½ tsp ground allspice                  or ¼ tsp ground saffron
1½ tsp salt                           ¼ tsp ground hot red pepper (cayenne)
 5 T vegetable oil                   12 medium-sized shucked oysters,                        
2½ pounds redfish or red snapper        (about ½ pint)
   fillets, with skin intact, cut     4 to 6 c freshly cooked white rice
   into 6 equal portions
                          --------------------------
** The recipe for fish stock can be found in the table under "Louisiana Essentials"


With a mortar and pestle, or in a small bowl with the back of a spoon, crush the garlic, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, allspice and ½ tsp of the salt to a smooth paste, then stir in 2 T of the oil.

Pat the fish fillets dry with paper towels and sprinkle them with the remaining teaspoon of salt. Spread the garlic paste over the flesh side of each fillet, dividing it evenly among them and set the fish aside.

Shell the shrimp. Devein them by making a shallow incision down their backs with a small, sharp knife and lifting out the black or white intestinal vein with the point of the knife. Wash the shrimp briefly in a colander set under cold running water and put them aside to drain.

In a heavy 12-inch skillet, heat the remaining 3 T of oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Add the onions and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, or until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Place the fish fillets, skin side down, on top of the onions, cover the skillet tightly and cook over moderate heat for 5 minutes, or until the fish is firm and opaque. With a wide metal spatula, transfer the fillets to a plate and reserve them.

Add the tomatoes, fish stock, saffron and red pepper to the onion mixture remaining in the skillet and bring to a boil over high heat. Stirring occasionally, cook briskly until the sauce is reduced to about 2 cups and is thick enough to hold its shape lightly in the spoon.

Return the fish fillets to the skillet, add the oysters and shrimp, and spoon the sauce over the seafood to moisten it evenly. Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet tightly and simmer for about 5 minutes, or until the shrimp are pink and firm to the touch and the oysters plump up and begin to curl at the edges.

Taste for seasoning. With a slotted spatula or spoon, arrange the fish fillets, shrimp and oysters attractively on a deep heated platter. Pour the sauce remaining in the skillet over the seafood and serve at once, accompanied by the rice in a separate bowl. Serves 4 to 6.


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