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1½ pounds fish trimmings: the heads, including the leaves
tails and bones of any firm 1 small bay leaf
white fish ¼ tsp crumbled dried thyme
1 quart cold water ½ tsp salt
½ c coarsely chopped onions 3 whole black peppercorns
¼ c coarsely chopped celery,
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Wash the fish trimmings in a deep bowl set under cold running water.
Drain, then mash the pieces of fish with the back of a large spoon.Place the mashed fish in a 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and pour in the water. Bring slowly to a simmer over moderate heat and cook uncovered for 5 minutes, skimming off the foam and scum as they rise to the surface. Add then onions, celery, bay leaf, thyme, salt and peppercorns, and reduce the heat to low. Simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes, skimming the surface from time to time.
Remove the pan from the heat and, with a slotted spoon, lift out and discard the fish and vegetables. Strain the stock into a deep bowl through a fine sieve lined with a double thickness of dampened cheesecloth. The stock will keep refrigerated for 2 or 3 days or it can be cooled to room temperature, covered tightly and frozen. Makes about 1 quart.
8 T unsifted all-purpose flour 8 T vegetable oil
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Combine the flour and oil in a heavy 10-inch skillet (preferably cast-iron
or enameled iron) and, with a large metal spatula, stir them to a smooth
paste. Place the skillet over the lowest possible heat and, stirring
constantly, simmer the roux slowly for 45 minutes to an hour.After 5 minutes or so the mixture will begin to foam and this foaming may continue for as long as 10 minutes. After about half an hour, the roux will begin to darken and have a faintly nutty aroma. Continue to cook slowly, stirring with the spatula, until the roux is a dark rich brown. (During the last 5 minutes or so of cooking, the roux darkens quickly and you may want to lift the pan from the heat periodically to let it cool. Should the roux burn, discard it and make another batch.)
Immediately scrape the contents of the skillet into a small bowl. Let the roux cool to room temperature, then cover with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate it until ready to use. (It can safely be kept for weeks.)
When it cools, the roux will separate and the fat will rise to the surface. Before using the roux, stir it briefly to recombine it. Measure the desired amount into the pan and warm the roux slowly over low heat, stirring constantly. Whether added immediately or not, any liquid that is to be incorporated with the brown roux must be at least lukewarm or the mixture may separate. If it does, beat it together again with a whisk. This recipe makes about 11 tablespoons of brown roux.
3 egg yolks ½ c finely chopped scallions,
1½ c olive oil including 3 inches of the green tops
1 T Creole mustard* ½ c finely chopped fresh parsley,
¼ tsp ground hot red pepper preferably the flat-leaf Italian
(cayenne) variety
1½ tsp salt ½ c finely chopped dill pickles
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*Creole mustard: a pungent
prepared mustard made from brown mustard seeds. As a substitute, use any
strong-flavored prepared brown mustard.With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the egg yolks vigorously in a deep bowl for about 2 minutes, until they thicken and cling to the whisk or beater when it is lifted from the bowl. Beat in ½ cup of the oil, ½ tsp at a time, making sure each addition is absorbed before adding more. By the time ½ cup of the oil has been beaten in, the sauce should have the consistency of thick cream. Pour in the remaining oil in a slow, thin stream, beating constantly.
Add the Creole mustard, red pepper and salt, and continue to beat until the sauce is smooth. Then stir in the chopped scallions, parsley and pickles, and taste for seasoning.
The Creole tartar sauce may be served immediately. Or, if you prefer, it may be covered tightly and refrigerated for 2 or 3 days before serving. Makes about 2 to 3 cups.
¼ c mustard seeds 4 dried hot red chilies, each about
¼ c coriander seeds 1½ inches long, washed, stemmed and
2 T dill seeds coarsely crumbled
2 T whole allspice 3 medium-sized bay leaves, finely
1 T ground cloves crumbled
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Mix the mustard, coriander, dill allspice, cloves, chilies and bay leaves
together in a jar, cover tightly and store the boil at room temperature.
Makes about 1 cup.
