The History of Surfing
Although no one knows for sure exactly where and when stand-up surfing began,
there is no doubt that over the centuries the ancient sport of "he'e nalu"
(wave-sliding) was absolutely perfected by the Kings and Queens- and the men
and women of the Sandwich Isles, long before the 15th century AD. Their
fortuitous position by way of longitude and latitude brought the great waves
of the Pacific in all shapes and sizes to these islands.
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ªi乗りには¡Bワンマン¡Dワンウエーブというルールがある¡C¦Pじ¤è¦Vに±Yれるªiにはひとりしか乗ることができません¡Cつまり¡B¦Û¤Àより¥ýにªiに乗っているボディボーダーやサーファーがいたときには¡Bそのªiに絶対テイクオフしてはいけない¡]ドッロプインしない¡^もし¡B¦P®Éにテイクオフしてしまったら¡Bªiのピークにªñい¤Hが¡Bªiに乗る権§Qがある¡Cもし乗ってしまったら¡Bすぐプルアウトしましょう
Benefits:
Bodyboarding is a wonderful exercise because it works your legs, hips and stomach. Last but not least it is extremely fun fun, catching a wave is the most spiritual, Zen experiences in the world!
