MOSCOW
GUM - Red Square, you can't miss it.
Well, Russia is a strange country and it's indeed passing a great number of transformations, and that's something that will obviously go on happening for the next years. What I can tell you here is my experience of Russia in June 98. If you want to buy legal cds, made by the recording company, imported from the USA or the rest of Europe, come to GUM. It used to be the biggest shop in Moscow, run by the government, where you should go to buy what was permitted. Now, with the fall of communism, it's more like a shopping center with shops like the russian Galeria Laffayette and brands like Nike and Adidas sold by the highest prices you'll ever see. As I was saying, inside GUM, there's a cd shop with the latest international releases with really high prices.
BAGRATIONOVSKAYA - Just step down from the subway on Bagrationovskaya station and follow the crowd on weekends (Saturdays and Sundays, 10-17).
Why was I speaking about legal cds and record companies? Because Russia is heaven for bootleggers. I had never seen anything like this. Wherever you are in the city (subway stations, newspapers sellers, even on the VDNKh) there are little stalls that sell cds for 2,50 US$. Yes, that's it: any cd for 2,50 US$. But if you want to concentrate your efforts, here is the main tip: there's a market that sells these bootlegs cds on weekends located near the Bagrationovskaya subway station. When you go down from the subway, you'll find a fruit and vegetable market. It's not there. You'll have to walk two or three blocks down to a big park (in the way, you'll already see some vendors in the street, but don't get too excited: the best is about to come). In this big park, there are something like 200 stalls selling bootleg cds for 2,50 US$ (they also carry cd-roms for 5 bucks). The selection is as huge as the fair, and you'll find not only those cds you missed on your collection but thing you have never seen before (like a 3-set collection of The Best of U2 or a cd named "U2's best ballads" or "Depeche Mode's B-sides" or even "Beatles Gold", with the best songs of the fab-4). I mean, what they don't get, they create. I went completely mad at this market and bought altogether with the bootlegs I found in St. Petersburg something like 40 or 50 cds. All this for the price of 5 normal cds. If you come to Russia, don't miss this market: it's a lifetime experience. But be prepared and bring a big bag.
ST. PETERSBURGMUSICLAND - Nevsky Prospect, 32-34 - In the yard - Daily, 10-20 - Subway Nevsky Prospect.
There are a lot of little shops like this along Nevsky Prospect, the main avenue in St. Petersburg. They sell only bootleg records. This one is behind the Grand Hotel Europe, near a Nike Shop. Differently from the marketpalces, where you can handle the cds, these shops (as most shops in Russia) don't allow you to touch freely the merchandise. You have to ask the seller, and then he gives you whatever you'd like to see. It tires, but it's one of the strange things you'll have to cope with once you decide to come to Russia. Cds here range from 3 to 4 dollars.
PHOTO SALOON - Nevsky Prospect, 54 - From Hotel Europe, cross Sadovaya St. - Next to Gostiny Dvor subway station.
Another shop selling cds from 3 to 4 US$ dollars, very near from the other one. Again, in St. Petersburg, you'll find lots of other sellers anywhere in town. I don't know if it's legal or not, but who cares. This one is a little more organized and friendly (up to the point that a russian seller can be any friendly). If you buy quantity, ask for a further discount.
IONONO MARKET - Only wed, fri, sat and sun.
This is the black market fair of St. Petersburg, where you'll find the cheapest of cheapest in town - 2 US$ each cd. There are cloth, cd-roms and other stuff on sale here. I strongly advice you to go there guided by a local, not because it's dangerous or something, but because it's a little bit complicated to get there. I'll try to explain. You should go by metro to AVTOVO station. There, you walk a few blocks to the tram stop and get tram number 60 to the fair, which is 6 stops from AVTOVO. When you go out of the tram in an almost deserted area, look for a place full of metal containers. It's the fair, and the sellers are inside the containers. Once you're there, have fun. Don't be late: the market closes early (5:30 PM, I think).
If you really plan to go to Russia, a few more tips. First, no one speaks your language, whatever it is. Learn a few words in russian and most of all: learn the cyrilic alphabet. Without knowing the letters, you won't be able to identify the metro station you're in or the name of the streets.
In Moscow, don't miss the Red Square, the VDNKh (a park developed by the old government to show people the glories of communism, with some of the most beautiful buildings and fountains in the world, that has now been transformed into a shopping mall - argh!) the Kremlin and the ARBAT, probably the most pleasant place in the city.
St. Petersburg, which is in many ways far more interesting than Moscow, has a lot of beautiful places too. Whatever you do, don't miss the Hermitage (which I dare say is better than the Louvre, not only for the paintings but for the building itself), the Church of The Bleeding Saviour (or is it Spilled Blood ? - whatever it is, don't miss the interiors !!) and Nevsky Prospect.
