Civilian Dress of the 1860's

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CLOTHING DO's & DON'TS

CLOTHING "DO'S"

  • Choose a standard one piece dress consisting of bodice and skirt - either a darted or gathered bodice
  • Choose an appropriate sleeve  For cotton or homespun consider the gathered cuff or coat   sleeve.  If using a pagoda sleeve remember this is a late  1850's style and should reflect a pre-war opulence
  • Choose natural fabrics - l00% silk, cotton, wool, or linen or a blend of these
  • Choose colors and patterns available during the period   For homespun choose a color that ranges in the natural dyeing category
  •  Choose appropriate buttons - glass, metal, or wood, etc.     Black glass is a good substitute for jet - or use hooks and   eyes
  • Choose to hem the dress approximately l to 2 inches off the floor, no more for a better dress, and not more than 3 in. for a work dress
  • Wear proper underpinnings for the correct silhouette - especially corset or work stays and skirt support such as a corded petticoat
  • Purchase correct shoes when your budget allows - consider Lincoln Log Cabin (2l7-345-l845) Purchase cotton stockings
  • Dress the hair in a suitable l860's style - parted in the middle, chignon at the base of the head
  • Choose earrings with French wires and simple broaches
  • Choose a correctly made bonnet - consider a slat or corded bonnet or a Linda Gray straw bonnet
  • Choose a bonnet and not a hat.   Use hand-stitched button holes
  • Match proper fabrics to the era the clothing was constructed - example:  don't make a homespun dress with Pagoda sleeves - this incorporates a pre-war style with war year fabric
  • Purchase correct eyewear for the period  

CLOTHING "DONT'S"

  • Wear fingerless mitts Wear snoods. The correct term is "net" and these were worn over fully dressed hair. They were light often described as "invisible" and not a catch-all for modern hairstyles
  • Wear sunglasses
  • Wear post earrings
  • Wear felt bonnets
  • Wear hats as a rule unless very young
  • Wear modern jewelry including wristwatches
  • Wear huge sutler hoops - consider a 90-ll0 in. cage or corded petticoat instead
  • Wear make-up and nail polish or excessively long nails
  • Wear synthetic fabrics or synthetic blends
  • Wear plastic buttons Incorporate machine stitched button holes
  • Wear Garibaldi/skirt combos unless under l8-20 years of age
  • Wear Zouave jacket/skirt/blouse combos - if you want the jacket wear it over a one piece dress
  • Wear "tea" bodices
  • Wear bangs or any other modern hair style, avoid sausage curls if you are a grown woman
  • Wear Battenburg lace, and lace on dresses - especially day wear.  Avoid nylon or synthetic lace all together
  • Wear Day caps for l86l or later
  • Construct dresses or other garments without using a reliable historically documented pattern with proper fit
  • Wear dresses which are short enough to show the ankles and feet
  • Wear ball gowns during the day Wear ball gowns of synthetic satin or other modern fabric and/or not made in a properly documented style.
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