MUSEUM, behind chapel. Glass window on left allows glimpse of adobe construction. Mementos of old mission. Courtyard with fountain.

OLD CEMETERY, adjoins mission to south. Fifty-five hundred Costanoans and many pioneers buried here. Burial next to wall of church reserved for priests and governors. Large brown sandstone Victorian extravaganza decorated with firemen's helmets and upside-down torches.

OLD NOTRE DAME SCHOOL/SITE OF COSTANOAN RANCHERIA, 347 Dolores. First girls' school in San Francisco founded in 1868. Built in 1907 but in style of 1850s or 1860s. 1906 fire stopped across from historic mission at wall and iron grill in front of school. Ironwork survives from pre-fire school building. This area in earlier days was rancheria established by Spanish authority to "civilize" wandering Native American tribes.

CAFE PICARO, 3120 16th St. Left over from the '60s. Political discussions, read books, play chess. Web site

ROXIE CINEMA, 3117 16th, 2 blocks from Mission Dolores. Showcase for independent films. Web site

LEVI STRAUSS FACTORY, 250 Valencia. Original factory still in use.

ORIGINAL MISSION CHAPEL SITE, Camp and Albion Sts. First mission chapel was temporary log-and-thatch structure alongside a stream.

37 ABBY. Simple one-story, flat-front Italianate.

40-42 ABBY. Three-story frame building of type known locally as Romeo flats because of open stairway's balcony at second floor.

3639-41 17TH ST. Bay-windowed Italianate house with small front garden complete with ferns, fuchsia, and jade plants. Side wall visible from sidewalk,.

DOLORES STREET PALMS AND LANDSCAPING. One of city's few tree-lined streets, palms planted about 1910. In median is cast-iron replica of a mission bell on a pole that looks like a shepherd's crook. Bay-windowed, three-story frame flats and apartments mostly built between 1907 and 1929.

MISSION HIGH SCHOOL, 3750 18th St. Large, red tile-roofed high school with lofty and richly ornamented tower. Website

MISSION DELORES PARK, across from high school. Largest park in the Mission. Replica of Mexico's "liberty bell" installed at Dolores and 19th. Bronze statue of Miguel Hildago y Castillia, priest considered the George Washington of Mexico is up the slope on west side of park.

SECOND CHURCH OF CHRIST SCIENTIST, 655 Dolores. Competent Beaux Art designed in 1915.

GOLDEN GATE LUTHERAN CHURCH, 601 Dolores. Red-brick Gothic Revival. Two churches show change from Victorian to Beaux Art taste.

VIEW, far corner at 20th and Church. Impressive panorama over downtown to northeast and Bay beyond. Dolores Heights rises to southwest.

VIEW, Dolores and Liberty. Sweeping view north down palm-lined Dolores St. United States Mint visible in distance built atop Blue Mountain in 1937.

159 LIBERTY. Large Italiante atop high retaining wall built in 1878 when some thought Mission's "warm belt" might develop into a suburban luxury district, but conquest of steeper hills by cable car turned the tide of fashion north.

151-53 LIBERTY. Typical of housing built after World War I.

123 LIBERTY. Good example of Queen Anne style of 1890s with scratchwork plaster ornaments and round corner tower.

121-21A, 117-19, AND 115 LIBERTY ST. Three Stick-style houses of the 1880s.

109 LIBERTY ST. Flat-fronted Italianate built in 1870 with elegant window moldings and a side garden.

850-52 GUERRERO, corner of Liberty St. Example of flats and apartment houses built on the corners of main streets in the Mission. Define side streets by enclosing them creating a roomlike effect within each street.

110 LIBERTY. Late Queen Anne Tudoresque house from 1890 with gable roof.

827 GUERRERO. Dramatic house with Moorish Gate entrance with new wrought-iron roof cresting built in 1881, expanded and remodeled in 1890. Round bay, stage-set balconies, fine art glass windows, vaguely Arabian Nights air -- virtually every surface treated as an opportunity for pattern and ornament.

HENRY GEORGE SCHOOL OF SOCIAL SCIENCE, 3410 19th off Valencia. George's Progress and Poverty, published in 1879, was the one book written in San Francisco in the 19th century that was read around the world. George set out to explain the phenomenon of deeping poverty amid advancing wealth in modern society and found his single cause in the monopoly of land by a few corporations.

WOMEN'S BUILDING, 3543 18th St., 1/2 block off Valencia. Building supports many women's gay and lesbian, peace, and progressive groups and is setting for meetings, lectures, films, and other programs. Mural across second story depicts progressive women.

900 BLOCK OF VALENCIA. String of six two-story bay-windowed Italianate houses built between 1875 and 1877.

MODERN TIMES BOOK STORE, 968 Valencia, near Liberty. Carries international -- especially -- literature and progressive books. Mother lode of free newspapers and fliers reflecting what's happening in radical circles in the Mission.

MISSIONARIES OF CHARITY QUEEN OF PEACE CONVENT, 970 Valencia. Unnoticed bay-windowed Edwardian building established in 1985 for Roman Catholic nuns dedicated to serving the poorest of the poor and the dying.

OLD WIVES TALES, 1009 Valencia. Nerve center for "women's visions and books" and for children's books.

LEXINGTON STREET VICTORIAN ENCLAVE, 3½ blocks long. Contrast between palm- and residence-lined Dolores St. and stark Valencia. Most of two-story, flat-front Italianate houses built between 1876 and 1877 were easily and neatly subdivided into upstairs and downstairs flats as investment property.

PLAZA DE LA RAZA, 50 Bartlett St. Fifty-one units of state-financed, low-income housing built over a three-level, 200-stall city parking garage.

3243-45 21ST ST., corner of Bartlett. Remarkable Eastlake house has settled unevenly into the soft ground. Represents high-water mark of Victorian house design in city. Built in 1863 for $4,000. Lathe-turned redwood ornament is emphatic and strong.

SAN JOSE ROAD (San Jose Ave.). Once part of the historic San Jose Road, later rechristened San Jose Ave. Angled through the regular street grid.

3315 22ND ST. Everything that could happen to a building happened to this three-story building with a corner store. Additions made to its rear and over time was chopped into many units.

ARTEMIS CAFE, 1199 Valencia at 23rd. Opened in 1977 as the Artemis Society, a women's private club. Sexual politics over admitting the eight-year-old son of one of the women working in the club induced owner to eschew separatism and opened the place to all in 1980.

MISSION STREET LOOKING NORTH, from 22nd. City's best surviving cluster of old neon and electric signs. Because Mission did not burn in 1906, layers of San Francisco history can be seen along the oldest land route into the city. Is city's working-class "Main Street>"

ST. JOHN'S LUTHERAN CHURCH, 3126 22nd. Lacy Gothic spires, convincing ornament. Stone cathedral translated into redwood for German-speaking congregation.

3144-46 22ND ST. Ell-shaped, three-story, Eastlake-style building with typical store front with 1930s tile splash panels.

3126 22ND ST., to right of church. Parsonage is a fine two-story, bay-windowed Italianate house with parish office built over front lawn that brings church out to sidewalk.

3122 22ND ST. Charming one-story, flat-front Italianate cottage with uniquely-ornamented parapet perched atop garage and inserted in 1920s. Pergola carport leads to iron gate through which can be glimpsed delightful oasis of a garden with a carriage-house cottage at its back.

MISSION DISTRICT MURAL, 22nd and Van Ness, southeast corner, one block east. Vivid colors on "neo-Aztec" mural entitled Inspire to Aspire: Tributre to Carlos Santana. Latino musicians, Mexican mariachis, plumed serpents, a mandela, and an Aztec pyamid set before San Francisco skyline.

CAPP STREET VICTORIAN ROW. Most extensive row of identical Stick-Eastlake houses on east side. Built between 1889 and 1894. Ten of 15 are substantially intact. Mass-produced woodwork is lacy and fanciful, "flash glass" -- small covered squares -- surrounding main window pane survives on many of them.

MISSION UNITED CHURCH, 23rd and Capp. Presbyterian church organized in 1868 and built in 1891. Example of Romanesque shingle-style with fine tower.

BANK OF AMERICA MURAL, Mission at 23rd. Bank branch has superb mural over banking counter depicting the present-day Latino population of the Mission.

24TH STREET LATINO STRIP. Nicaraugan, Salvadoran, Costa Rican, and other Latin-American restaurants and shops reflect West's most complex Latino community.

MURAL, 24th and Van Ness. Mural entitled Golden Dreams of the New World shows Latin dancers with background of cleverly-painted Victorian houses.

BALMY ALLEY BETWEEN TREAT AND HARRISON, just off 24th St. Series of murals begun in 1977 on political agony of contemporary Central America.

GARFIELD SQUARE, across street from end of Balmy Alley. Park set aside as part of the Outside Lands in 1863. Features a mature cypress.

GALERIA DE LA RAZA, 2855 24th St., southeast corner at Bryant. Important showcase for contemporary Latino artists. Pamphlet available. Mission's many fine murals.

STUDIO 24 GALERIA SHOP, next door to Galeria de la Raza. Mexican and Central American folk art and Latin-American literature. Best place for souvenirs.

ST. FRANCIS CANDY STORE, 2801 24th St. Genuine soda fountain and ice cream parlor. Looks like something from a Norman Rockwell painting.

BART SUBWAY STATION, Mission and 24th. Interior has barrel-vaulted station tiled in colors reminiscent of painted ceilings of old Mission Dolores. Mural painted on west wall of building on the northeast corner of intersection. Artists depicted the sleek BART train resting on backs of people perceived as threat to lively low-rent district. Web site

MEAT MARKET COFFEE HOUSE, 4123 24th. Former butchers' shop is a local hangout.

NOE VALLEY BRANCH LIBRARY, 451 Jersey St.Handsomely ornamented in brick and terra cotta, four engaged columns across its facade frame large windows, swags and garlands with open books between them enrich the facade. Over entrance is stern motto: "Life without literature is death." Web site

NOE VALLEY MINISTRY, 1021 Sanchez. Stick-style church with a Gothic-style porch. Originally built in 1888, revitalized church serves as informal communiy center used for worship, lectures, a co-op nursery school, senior programs, dance and exercise classes, local merchants, and home of neighborhood newspaper.

GROCERY BUILDING, Sanchez and 22nd, southeast corner. Typical two-story 1880s corner grocery building with recessed corner entrance and square-sided bay window placed at 45-degree angle to intersection.

849 SANCHEZ, northeast corner at Hill. Typical two-story streamlined stucco house of 1938 with porthole windows and abstract modern stained-glass inserts.

VIEW OF SANCHEZ AND HILL, southwest corner. Fine view to the south of the densely-built Mission District. Two needle-like steeples in the distance belong to St. Paul's Catholic Church built in 1911.

ROLPH HOUSE, 3690 21st, northeast corner of Sanchez. Tree-embowered stockbroker Tudor house built aboout 1913 by "Sunny Jim" Rolph, mayor from 1911 to 1920 and then state governor. Large bronze fountain of Leda and the Swan is said to be from Florence.

VIEW AT 21ST AND SANCHEZ, southeast corner. View of Mission Valley with peaked, roofed cottages, blue bay, Oakland, Contra Costa bridge, and pyramidal Mt. Diablo, highest peak in the region.

VIEW AT 21ST AND SANCHEZ, northeast corner. Sudden and spectacular view of downtown high-rises with dark Bank of America and white Transamerica Pyramid seen as a pair from this angle. To left are slender residential high-rises and North Bay. Also, St. Mary's Cathedral, Mission Doleros, city hall.

RAYBURN STREET. Lined with wooden garages and simple cottages.

541-59 LIBERTY. Seven cottages with gingerbread drips and donut capitals.

563-77 LIBERTY. Four peak-roofed Queen Anne cottages.

LIBERTY STEPS. Part way, enjoy one of the most attractive views of the city. Red rock mass of Corona Heights to north and grassy slopes of Twin Peaks due west. From top of steps, San Francisco Bay and Contra Costa hills appear to east

741 LIBERTY. White Moderne flats. White stucco boxes step up the hillside quite agreeably.

787 AND 757 CASTRO. Queen Anne houses built in 1890.

711-733 CASTRO. Five houses built in 1897. Modern color schemes pick out their gingerbreads. Dramatic false gables with sunburst ornaments emphasize verticality and create an animated profile.

701 CASTRO. Whimsical one-story Queen Anne cottage with round-corner tower built in 1897.

HIGH GEAR, 600 Castro. Athletic wear.

ISAK LINDENAUER ANTIQUES, 4143 19th, near Collingwood. Verital museum of oak furniture, art pottery, and hammered-copper artifacts.

580 CASTRO, northwest corner of 19th. Stick-style commercial and residential building designed in 1887.

527-39 CASTRO. Three-story building with semi-circular bay windows. Now a mini-mall of boutiques and a restaurant.

CASTRO AND 18TH ST. Sometimes referred to as Castro Village, no doubt after Greenwich Village in New York City. This is Castro's Times Square.

CASTRO AND 18TH ST., southwest corner. Commercial-residential building designed in 1912 with Elephant Bar in its corner space.

501 CASTRO, across the street. Neo-classical corner building built in 1929 and a modern glass addition designed in 1979. Corner is often the sight of ironing board-equipped petitioners circulating latest political broadside.

MIDNIGHT SUN, 4067 18th St. Bar has high-tech Deco interior behind its anonymous gray sheet metal facade. Web site

DOES YOUR MOTHER KNOW, 4079 18th St. Card store like no other offering specialized greetingsd to entertain -- and shock. Premier X-rated shop in the country.

ALL AMERICAN BOY, 463 Castro. Standard bearer for casual wear, especially neighborhood uniform of jeans and T-shirt.

CASTRO THEATER, 429 Castro. One of the best efforts for fantasy is this flagship theater. Spanish Renaissance extravaganza marked by a giant blind window flanked by elaborate ornaments and surmounted by an empty niche. Web site

EMPIRE OF AMERICA SAVINGS, 444 Castro. Parody of typical bay-windowed Edwardian white-painted steel open-work front standing before glass and mirror facade. Two second-story bay windows and open-work pedimented gable with mirrored gable behind.

BANK OF AMERICA BRANCH, 400 Castro, southwest corner at Market. More ornate building stripped to make it look more modern.

TWIN PEAKS BAR, Castro and Market, southeast corner. Projecting sheet-metal sign shows profile of the hills. First openly gay bar with floor-to-ceiling plate glasss windows looking out on the world.

CASTRO COMMON CONDIMINIUMS, 2425 Market, west of Metro entrance down brick-paved pedestrian bridge. Model of how architecture can be wholly new yet mesh smoothly with San Francisco's character.

HARVEY MILK PLAZA, at Castro St. station. Elected to metropolitan board of supervisors. Proved that gay community was a political as well as social force. Assassinated in 1978.

MARKET AND CASTRO STS. View at foot of Market is tower of 1896 Ferry Building framed by huge downtown high-rises.

THE NAMES PROJECT, 2363 Market. Gigantic quilt made of thousands of hand-sewn and decorated panels pieced together as a memorial to those who have died of AIDS. Always new parts of the quilt on display.