handlers
hands should be thoroughly wet. No hand jewelry should be worn. The
koi may resist movement in a direction it is not going and become
agitated.
If
it is difficult to place your hands under a larger koi in the proper
position for support of the koi during transfer, consider taking
advantage of temporary disorientation produced in the koi when rotated
in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction for a few turns. If going
clockwise the handler should place his right hand across the left head
and shoulder area and support the under surface of the koi just back
of the head with his right hand when the koi is facing at eleven or
twelve o'clock. Continue the clockwise rotation with the right hand,
place the left hand under the posterior aspect of the koi when the
head is at four to six o'clock. Lift the koi from the water. Bring the
head close to your body for control, move your hands with the koi if
it moves as you deliberately and promptly transfer the koi to the
immediately adjacent container.
PREPARING
KOI FOR TRANSPORTATION
Stress
during koi transportation should be minimized as much as possible.
Stress may lessen the effectiveness of the koi's immune system. The
possibility of infection or other health problems which could be
transmitted to other koi in your pond is enhanced .
Koi
should not be fed for at least three days and possibly seven days
before transport. The production of ammonia during transport is
reduced and the transport water is not polluted to the extent that it
would be had the koi been fed during this fasting period. Koi may be
eating algae from the pond wall during the period when they are not
fed.
If
an isolation tank with adequate water volume and an active biological
filter is available the koi could be in this tank at least during the
last part of the fasting period. Additives to the isolation tank water
could be salt, mineral salt or various medications. Be accurate. Do
not over medicate. There will be less stress when the koi is in a dark
environment during transport. Transport water can be cooled to reduce
metabolism. Mild sedation could be considered.
LONG
DISTANCE TRANSPORT
In
general koi may be transported for long distances and many hours
safely in plastic bags or in rigid containers, The development of the
plastic bag had an immense impact allowing safe worldwide koi
transportation.
TRANSPORTING
KOI IN PLASTIC BAGS
It's
time to get physical again. We're going to put our koi in plastic bags
for transport. There is a wide choice in bag size and thickness. The
bag should be longer than the rectangular corrugated cardboard koi box
or any other container into which the bag will be placed. This allows
secure closure of the bag using most of the length of the box.
Double
plastic bags should be used putting one bag inside the other. Large
koi transported long distances by airplane within the USA or from
overseas may be within the inner bag of 3 to 5 bags. It is helpful to
roll the mouth of the bag down before placing koi in the plastic bag.
This produces a relatively fixed opening and keeps water from going
between the bags. Put some water from the pond or water prepared
specifically for the transport into the bag.
The
koi is put into the bag by hand transfer or by using your free hand to
direct the koi into the bag. Usually only one koi 18 to 20 inches in
length is placed in a bag, perhaps two 15 to 18 inch koi are placed in
the saw size bag, etc. The gills should be covered with water, I
prefer to add enough water so that the koi can float, not rest on the
bottom of the box.
Some
hobbyists and dealers put additives in the transport water. This
includes such things as salt. mineral salt, antiparasitic medication,
antibacterial medication, etc. If you choose to do so. do not
overdose. Prepare the transport water accurately and add it to the
bag. Transfer the fish into the bag by hand, sock net, or bag with a
corner cut out to drain the pond water from the bag so that minimal
pond water will be added to the transport water. The transport water
will not be significantly diluted. The bagged koi is placed in a
corrugated rectangular koi box, styrofoam box, polystyrene box. ice
chest, etc. The length of the box is usually about two times the width
or height. The width and height are normally similar. Newspapers are
often placed in the bottom of the koi box primarily for insulation. I
won't say that Japanese newspapers are best but the koi I have
received directly from Japan have been calm and happy.
Look
closely at the bagged koi in the transportation box. If water needs to
be added or removed, do so. Remove all air from the bag by carefully
compressing the bag down to the water level. Pleat the plastic bag
near the mouth of the bag so no air reenters the bag. Insert the hose
from the regulator (attached to an oxygen cylinder) through the mouth
of the bag. Slowly fill the bag with pure oxygen to about three
fourths full and withdraw the hose. Twist the neck of the bag so no
oxygen escapes. Fold the neck of the inner bag over and secure it with
rubber bands tightly placed over the folded neck. Use two rubber bands
for safety. Seal the outer begs in sequence in the same manner.
Insulating material (usually newspapers) is placed over the bag in the
box and the box is sealed.
If
one wishes to gradually lower the water temperature in the bag during
transit, place frozen reusable freeze packs on top of the bag before
adding newspaper insulation. Support the bottom of the cardboard box
when it is being carried.
Place
the transport box or other container holding the bagged koi in the
transport vehicle sideways to the travel direction Braking during
transit would then move larger koi sideways and would not bang their
nose against the end of the box. The risk of injury is reduced. The
transport box must be secured so it does not move during transit.
